CK5
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Need some gauge help.
- Thread starter tdcombs
- Start date
Oil pressure gauge sender is at the back of the engine (typical) next to the distributor. Probably single prong connector, brown wire. Pull that off, with key in "run", touch that to ground, and see if gauge moves. If it does, sender problem, if not, wire or gauge issue. That should be your first test, although if the needle is "stuck" at something other than 0, turning the key to run should also "zero" the gauge.
The voltage that the voltmeter "reads" is typically what also provides power to other gauges or lights, so that might be tied into the oil pressure issue. You'll need to pull the gauge cluster to check this though, you will need to verify the + on the printed circuit board is getting 12V with the key in "run".
The voltage that the voltmeter "reads" is typically what also provides power to other gauges or lights, so that might be tied into the oil pressure issue. You'll need to pull the gauge cluster to check this though, you will need to verify the + on the printed circuit board is getting 12V with the key in "run".
Well, disregard then lol.
Oil pressure was mechanical until the late 70's sometime IIRC, so if it doesn't work, I'd have to say it's the gauge itself.
I also believe your truck will have an ammeter, not voltmeter, so you'll have to get input from others that have experience with that setup.
Oil pressure was mechanical until the late 70's sometime IIRC, so if it doesn't work, I'd have to say it's the gauge itself.
I also believe your truck will have an ammeter, not voltmeter, so you'll have to get input from others that have experience with that setup.
Boondocks
1/2 ton status
For the oil pressure, check that the copper line is connected to the driver's side of distributor.
Ampmeter, there are two in-line fuses. one on each side of the radiator. They are short and the holder is a two piece rubber unit, that you can pull apart.
I blow one or the other of those fuses all the time.
Ampmeter, there are two in-line fuses. one on each side of the radiator. They are short and the holder is a two piece rubber unit, that you can pull apart.
I blow one or the other of those fuses all the time.
Boondocks said:
One of the fuses was blown on the ampmeter and its working now that i replaced the fuse.
The copper line is connected to the drivers side of the distributor. So does that mean its the gauge or could it still be something else?
Boondocks
1/2 ton status
You should check the full run of the tube to ensure it is not kinked anywhere.
If you have access to another direct reading gauge, disconnect the tube from you dash mounted gauge and connect the other one and see if you get a reading.
If that is not okay, maybe disconnect it at both ends and blow air through it to ensure it isn't clogged. But, I have never seen that happen.
If all of that is good, I would say, yes, it is the gauge.
If you have access to another direct reading gauge, disconnect the tube from you dash mounted gauge and connect the other one and see if you get a reading.
If that is not okay, maybe disconnect it at both ends and blow air through it to ensure it isn't clogged. But, I have never seen that happen.
If all of that is good, I would say, yes, it is the gauge.
