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Need some guidance

Jontaft06

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New to the forum and needed some help from some seasoned k5 enthusiasts. I have an opportunity to purchase my first k5 and here is the build sheet on it.

EDIT*** 1983 Chevrolet k5 Blazer ***

454/TH400/208 All Rebuilt
8" Susp/3" Body Lifts
ORD Offset Zero Rate Add A Leaves, Offset 1.5" forward
10,500 MileMarker Hydrolic Winch
(5) 39.5x18x16.5 Boggers, New 4-mounted
Dana 44/14 Bolt; 4:10's Lock-rite & Gov-Lock
Rear Disc conv w/functioning parking brake, 1 ton Brake Master Cylinder
Jacobs Off-Road Ignition w/hill climb module
Ford Aerostar Electric Fans w/shroud
Grant Removable Steering Wheel w/Security Hub
Bushwacker 6" Cutout Fenders
ORD Swaybar Disconnect
KC HiLites 6" Daylighter (4)

Here are my concerns. The 208 tcase has a decent sized leak. According to the owner the tcase is newly rebuilt and was just resealed on both ends but still leaks somehow unknown to him. Any worst case scenarios on this? It would need a new front drivers side fender/door (good sized dent on both) which is not a big deal but maybe a ballpark figure on that would help. Overall I don't have much experience with k5's and I am going to purchase this possibly tomorrow so I'd like to see possibly what its worth to you guys and or any concerns with the way this particular k5 was built. I'm not looking for a DD or something extremely reliable just a fun project 4x4 to fill my void from my previous 1 ton'd 97 z71 I parted ways with a few years ago.

Thanks in advance.
 
Doors and fenders are a dime a dozen still. I picked up a fender and door for 100$ maybe, not sure exactly anymore, but same color combo and power windows/locks just like mine. That 208 is also cheap. In my opinion the 208 is a pos, alot of guys like them but they are not my cup of tea. You could go pick up a np241 out of a newer truck and get a heavier duty stronger better low version of the 208.
 
Be sure to check the frame at the steering box for cracks.
 
Doors and fenders are a dime a dozen still. I picked up a fender and door for 100$ maybe, not sure exactly anymore, but same color combo and power windows/locks just like mine. That 208 is also cheap. In my opinion the 208 is a pos, alot of guys like them but they are not my cup of tea. You could go pick up a np241 out of a newer truck and get a heavier duty stronger better low version of the 208.


Is the np241 a direct bolt in or are there modifications needed to fit correctly?
 
Can you tell where the TC is leaking? Output seals, shift rod seal, case where it splits or at the adapter? Clan it up and find out where first. Output yokes with grooves warn in them are most common. Can be fixed with a speedi sleeve. Do the seals at the same time.

My 241, almost identical cases to the 208, cracked at the casting seams on the front case half. Took me forever to find it. Had to pull the TC and presurize it to find the leak. TIG welded it and it has been good.
 
Is the np241 a direct bolt in or are there modifications needed to fit correctly?

241 is a bolt in for one year only. 241 was offered from 88(?)-91 in the square bodies and for only 1 year was cable driven speedo like your 83. The other years used a VSS. On top of that the 88- pickup trucks were IFS and used the drivers side drop 241, not gonna work with your K5.

If he had the 208 rebuilt and it's still leaking it could be the output shaft yoke itself. Either from a worn seal surface, as KTM stated, or from the end cap in the u joint area. This can be difficult to find as the u-joint spins and sprays the fluid everywhere. You really need to check it out and find out where the leak is.
 

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