CK5
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Need some help 98 6.5 electrical-need to hardwire my truck
- Thread starter Smokinthehippies
- Start date
Oh. Sorry about that. Do you have an ohmmeter? I can walk you through how to test it.
If my idea is correct, and there really is a problem downstream, you want to correct the problem so you don't keep burning out switches. A redneck ignition bypass switch isn't immune to burning out, either.
Ji agree to both of those things. And I do have one. I also think I've hit on the problem in running thru it in my head. Right before the first one burned out, I put in a cheap stereo. Stereo would be controlled by that circuit. I bet the short lies in the cheap ass harness/cheap ass radio. I'm gonna bring one of the harness home from work tonight and I'll see if you can explain the ohming process to me.
Ok. Finding a potential "smoking gun" is good (though that shouldn't be hooked up to the start circuit
).
But it's hooked up to the run circuit. Idk. It makes perfect sense in my head. I'm gonna dissemble the harness and radio on my lunch break.
Well, it sounds like something in the "start" circuit is causing the problem. And the radio should not be pulling power from that circuit.
But it does look suspicious if the problem started when that was installed. Try disconnecting that and seeing if that makes a difference.
I just did. Pulled the ignition switch (gonna warranty that after work) and pulled the radio. I did notice one of the speaker wires looks like it has a few bare spots from rubbing on something. Don't know if that's the culprit or not.
But when I get home we can try ohming out the other two harnesses I have.
In the mean time I'll leave the radio unplugged for a week or two.
I'm also gonna go thru and take the crimps out and solder the connections between the radio and harness. Also gonna replace the $19 head unit and buy a "name" brand just in case. Don't need to take chances.
But when I get home we can try ohming out the other two harnesses I have.
In the mean time I'll leave the radio unplugged for a week or two.
I'm also gonna go thru and take the crimps out and solder the connections between the radio and harness. Also gonna replace the $19 head unit and buy a "name" brand just in case. Don't need to take chances.
Hold on........So 6.5 is a diesel?????
Got it all put back together on Thursday with a warrantied switch. Taped up the bare speaker wire from the chassis side of the radio harness.What's news?
Expect a text/call from me later when it gets daylight enough to go to the garage. I'll ohm out the harness on the bad ones and see what that shows us.
Yes. 6.5 turbo diesel. Essentially a computer controlled 6.2 with a turbo. Pre-duramax.
Ok, I'm outside of phone range today, but I am available. This thread is probably the best way to get ahold of me.
I'm expecting that you'll have an open circuit across the switch. Or have you turned all of them in for warranty claims?
Not always. The computers didn't come around until 1994. 1992 and 1993 6.5TD engines are still mechanically controlled.
Otherwise, yeah, it's an over-bored and turbocharged 6.2 engine. With a few worthy upgrades. And a few unworthy ones...
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Ok so played with it and put it all back together. Having taped up everything I thought was the issue (rafio). Too. It on a half hour drive and it did it again.Ok, I'm outside of phone range today, but I am available. This thread is probably the best way to get ahold of me.
I'm expecting that you'll have an open circuit across the switch. Or have you turned all of them in for warranty claims?
When it "pops" the truck will die for a second then come back on. Luckily I felt it before I shut the truck off so I drove straight back home. At least now it's dead in the driveway.
So I have two known bad harnesses on my kitchen tabl. With a 3rd in the truck should I need to pull it. Wtf do I need to do to figure this out? I'm electrically a simpleton so bear woth me.
Is there a place I can get a pinout of the ignition switch? That way if I do find the bad wire I can figure where the hell it goes.
Ok...so you can continue driving it....and it's not fatally wounded until you turn it off?
The plot thickens...
Correct. It will die no throttle nothing. Then a second or two of rolling later it comes back on and all is well to keep driving. But it's happened enough now that I've put together the fact that it means it's toast. Came home shut it down and went to restart it to check. It will go to run position fine and everything will cycle like t should, the moment you turn it to start it goes dark and that's all she wrote. I went thru both harnesses I have in the kitchen and saw no glaring issues.
So...you successfully got it back to "run," but you couldn't handle "start." And then, it no longer will handle "run?"
Do some ohmmeter testing of the failed switch(es) that you have. A functioning switch will have connectivity between the input and whichever line corresponds to the position selected. I'm guessing you'll find no connectivity (high resistance) if the switch isn't functioning properly. The problem is much more likely to be inside the switch than in the harness.
This sounds like the beginnings of a failed PMD. Lemme guess, it happens sporadically, but typically after the engine warms up a bit?
Yes. Once it does the "stumble" you basically get one last chance to put it in run, but as soon as you click to start all electrical inside goes away.
I did that on both of them. I found no high resistance spots anywhere.
I don't think it's the pmd. A. It is already relocated B. It's an electrical shutdown, not like the truck isn't getting fuel
