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Need some help...'98 K2500

Zeus33rd

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So I'm home in the states for a couple weeks, and my buddy tells me he blew up the motor in his work truck. It's a '98 Chevy K2500 extended cab with the Vortec 5.7/350 and auto-trans. He's a contractor, truck was loaded down with tools/supplies and also towing a 15' or so enclosed trailer loaded with more tools. This is what he told me- He was going wide open up a fairly steep grade at about 65-70mph. He said it made some pretty loud clunking noises and started slowing down...rpm's were climbing but the truck was slowing down. He called a tow truck, had it towed to my gramps place. The tow truck driver told him that the oil filter was missing, there was no oil in the truck and the engine had seized. :eek1: That obviously freaked him out....he relies on the truck for work, and he had just lost his job and was on the way to a job interview.

It sat for a few days till he decided to check it out himself. That was yesterday, I was there too. The oil filter was there, there was oil in the truck and the motor was certainly NOT seized. :crazy: After we charged up the battery, the engined fired up just fine, but there were some pretty damn loud and scary sounding noises coming from somewhere. It's a loud clunking and chirping/squeaking noise that sounds like its coming from the bellhousing area....broken flex plate or torque converter? Sounds like a steel rubbing on aluminum sound. The sound changes in pitch and frequency when the trans is shifted into gear. The trans was a brand new rebuilt unit 3-4 years ago. Fluid in the trans still looks pink and doesn't smell burnt.

It has good oil pressure and starts just fine, the oil looks good, dirty, but nothing obvious about it. It idles ok, smooth and even. The sound it makes seems too slow in frequency to be a busted/broken push rod, rocker arm etc. And if were anything top end related, wouldn't it have an effect on how the engine idles?

I'm just trying to get some ideas before we rip into it. The first thing we're gonna do is pull the converter back and fire it up to pinpoint weather the noise is coming from the engine or trans. That's if the flex plate/torque converter doesn't fall out in pieces when we unbolt the inspection cover. :doah: He said he's had to replace the flexplate a couple times. My feeling is something trans/torque converter/flexplate related. We'll see.

I'd approciate any input you guys have. :wink1:
 
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No one? :crazy:

I know it's gonna be pretty easy to figure it out on my own, but come on dammit....I'm frickin bored out of my mind! :eek1::haha:
 
Joe, drop the convertor cover first and see if you can easily move the flexplate back and forth (rotational). If there is ANY movement it is a broken flexplate for sure.

Next if the flexplate doesn't move easily then i would unbolt the convertor and push it rearward and fire the engine and see if the noise is still there. This obviously will determine if the noise is engine or trans related.
 
If it made weird noises, and RPM's INCREASED, i would guess trans or trans connection area. What Scott and you already figured.

If it made weird noises, and then the RPM's decreased, i would be more suspect of teh engine.
 
Ok, so we tore into it a little bit today. Unbolted the flex plate and pulled the converter back. Fired it up and the noise didn't go away. :crazy: It sounds like something in the lower end. What causes a lower end knock? A spun bearing? :confused:

This truck has 182k miles and he doesn't treat it well. He told me today that he hadn't changed the oil in 2 years. :eek1: We drained it and it was dirt brown with shiny/sparkly chunks of some sort of metal (bearing material?) floating around. And it didn't smell like any oil I've ever smelled either, it was vile. And the magnet on the drain plug looked like it had a fro. Tomorrow we're gonna yank the pan and have a look in there. What should I be looking for? Is the problem going to be obvious? What is involved in a lower end rebuild? Can it be done in the truck? All these questions....paging Scott!

Another problem we discovered, some sort of electrical/charging system issue. We hooked up a battery charger with a 200amp cranking assist to get it fired up. After it started and was idling, I pulled the leads off the battery and less than a minute later it just died. Hooked the charger back up, fired it up, got it idling smooth again and pulled the leads off the battery. It immediately started idling rough and surging really bad. As soon as I connected the leads back to the battery the idle smoothed out and the surging stopped. The battery is an Optima red top and holds 12.01v with the truck off. The alternator charge varies between 12-14v at idle, in tune with the engine surge. At 1k rpm's, the charge holds steady at 14v+-. It seems to me like it's pretty obviously the alternator, but is the alternator going bad in this manner gonna cause the surging thing? My buddy says he's had to replace the alternator several times in the past few years...that's pretty excessive. What is going on with this thing?

Are the knocking and electrical/charging issues related somehow? How would any of this be connected to the original issue?
 
No oil change in 2 yrs? I have a hard time helping people fix their stuff when they treat it like ****. A "Why help someone that doesn't care to help themselves" kind of idea. Even if he is a good friend.

That being said, good job for helping him out, and good luck with the repairs.
 
No oil change in 2 yrs? I have a hard time helping people fix their stuff when they treat it like ****. A "Why help someone that doesn't care to help themselves" kind of idea. Even if he is a good friend.

That being said, good job for helping him out, and good luck with the repairs.

Well, normally I would feel the same as you and tell him to get bent. However, at one point years ago, he went above and beyond to help me when I needed help. So now I don't mind helping...I haven't really done much anyways, just stand there and hand him the tools he needs. :haha:
 
Definately sounds like a bearing went south. The surging when you remove the charger is because the battery voltage isn't high enough to support the proper voltage for the electrical items in need of it. Sounds like it's time for a crate engine. Summit has a good GM crate engine for it. I installed on for a guiy with a 94 truck a year or so ago and it cost him 1700.00 delivered for the engine with a factory GM warranty.
 

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