CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

need some help with a oil pan.. how can this be so hard..

84CUCV

3/4 ton status
Joined
Jul 1, 2002
Posts
7,150
Reaction score
2
Location
NJ for now
So work has been slowing down.. working on cars on the side.. working a 89 f 350 4x4 with a 7.3 been messing with this for 45 minutes. why in the hell cant i get he oil pan down? what am i missing? never did one before..

one more for you guys.. working on a yj.. oil pain was a bit rusty. not heavy rust. was going to clean and paint it.. simple.. he wanted a new oil pan.. its on.. let the thing run for a while. no leaks. he pays me and takes it home.. 10 min later he calls and says oil is poring out the oil pan.. brings it back.. not the oil pan. let it run for a hour.. its fine. go to put it in my back yard oil comes flying out. chassis, trans, axle and drive shaft all covered.. no idea where is coming from..

so whats am i missing? any ideas? losing money on this jeep at this point.. thanks:waytogo:
 
7.3 got to pull motor or cut out crossmember and weld it back in after work done .

jeep and any aftermarket pan from overseas check the end seal areas . i got bit 1 time with this . only leaked up hills or hard take off. found pan rail to end radius NOT 90* like factory was 45* and wouldnt pinch gasket 100% and would leak oil all over the place up hills .

anymore on problem rusty pans check dealer first . the 300 ford i had the problem with we had to get new pan asap . no local stores had another aftermarket. called dealer had in stock and CHEEPER than china junk.
 
wow the motor need to come out? or can i just pull it up? ill check the jeep now
 
just reading a bit.. know anything about a 2 piece oil pan for the 7.3? thanks
 
wow the motor need to come out? or can i just pull it up? ill check the jeep now


seen lots of 7.3 with bad pans . like i said pull it basicly or cut cross meber and weld back in . or undo 90% jack up fight with it and exaust and open can of worms or just bite the bullit and pull it or cut n weld .

place i use to work thay did the cut n weld on plow truck with fisher v plow on it and salter and still holding up .

i dont do oil burners . and i wouldnt want 2 peice my self.
 
good point.. ok cutting it.. right about the oil pan too. piece of crap
 
I helped a friend replace a 7.3 oil pan on a 2000 or so F250 4x4,it was a sucky job...had to unbolt the cab and use his lift to hoist it up as far as we dared without pulling any wiring,fuel lines ,exhaust,etc out of place,and it was barely enough to get the pan off the engine with it off its mounts dangling from a engine hoist....the factory pan the customer bought came with a caulking gun tube of special sealant that Ford said must be used with "the engine inverted and allowed to dry for 24 hours before adding any oil"...

Ya--RIGHT!...to pull the engine right out and flip it over just to install an oil pan,HAS to be THE stupidest thing I ever heard of...we fudged it,just cleaned everything off good with brake cleaner and put it together and hoped for the best...luckily it didn't leak a drop after it was all done...took the better part of two days to do it,with a good 2 post lift....definately not a job anyone should attempt at home lying on your back in the driveway...and definately not one of fords "better ideas"....

I see newer trucks at the delaership's service bays all the time with the cab hoisted 5 feet up,and te rolling chassis sitting on the floor,they have to pull the cab off to remove a cylinder head,oil pan,etc...of course they made the oil pans from rusted junk that flakes apart in 5 years,seeing its such a bear to replace...they should be stainless steel here,the 7.3 seems to be one of the most common engines with rotted oil pan woes..
My friend heard about a new plastic oil pan "cover" for the 7.3's you can slip over the rusted original and "glues" on with special RTV,but he opted to go with a factory one,didnt sound like a permanent fix to him...

I've seen many trucks with rotted oil pans here patched up with fiberglass clotch and resin,tiger hair,epoxy,etc...some guys use some Devcon epoxy stuff used in industrial pumps and machines that can be "troweled" on and hardens like steel with decent results...beats pulling the engine out...my friends customer didn't want his crossmenber cut apart and welded back in either--looked to us like the frame would cave in some with it removed,and would be a challenge to weld it back in later with no real room..
 
yes it was a huge pain.. took a long time.. for whats involved. im not going to do it again. not worth it.. a welder friend said he could have done in no time.. hes done a lot.. after i cut it.. rest was not to bad..
 
I miss the good old days when removing an oil pan was a 30 minute job on the older trucks..my '56 Chevy 3200 had a straight axle up front,when I had to take the oil pan off to do some bottom end repairs,I had it off in maybe 10 minutes,using a "speed wrench" and socket that looks like an old carpenter's brace and bit...all I had to do to get the pan out from the bottom,wasjack the truck up by the frame and let the axle hang,it was too easy!...why they cant design things to be fixed easier today,I dont know...

My 82 GMC K2500 has a rotted oil pan on its 6.2.I got a nice one from Iceman here ,but have yet to get it installed..also scored a GM factory replacement one shortly after I got that one,off a c-30 ramp truck my friend owned that had its 6.2 bust the crank ,I got the whole engine for parts,some were missing though,that they had to re-use to install the new motor in it.....seeing I cant lie on my back long enough now to change the pan myself,I will have to pay someone with a lift to do it...if I dont get it done soon,the truck wont be worth the effort to fix,its getting too rusted..I may just put more J-B putty or bondo on it and let it slide until I decide what I'm going to do with the truck..been limping along with it puttied up for the better part of 3 years ,its now weeping again,and I dont like trusting it when the putty might decide to drop off while I'm driving...someday I'd like to live where trucks dont rot away in 5 years..
 
THe oil pan can be done without engine removal or hacking up the truck.

Engine has to be lifted as far as possible and blocked, and when you get the pan down some, unbolt the pump and pickup tube.

It is a sucky job, but I have probably done 10 this way.
 
if it helps ya. a friend does a lot of plowing.. all his trucks get sprayed with fluid film.. he said that was starting to add up fast.. now there all sprayed with used motor oil or diesel fuel.. cheap. simple.. pretty messy but it get the job done..
 
Top Bottom