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Need some suspension help. Is this OEM?

2" spacer like Martin said.

I have a 1/2 to burb with worn out front springs. I'll do a 4" lift all around when I do mine.

There's a sticky thread at the top of the Garage forum with various lift and tire size combos. Take a look before you decide.
 
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Bilstein 5100 are on my list. I will likely get them from ORD. Do your tires rub? 33's on stock ride height, I would expect a little rubbing.
Have someone move your steering wheel while you watch the steering components, small movement back and forth look for ball socket studs moving in the cup. make sure the Pitman arm is tight on the sector shaft(gear box) re torque your U bolts front and rear. How much air pressure do you have in those big E rated tires?
The lift blocks will work, new springs might be worth considering.
 
Hey guys I have a quick question, my new shocks just arrived in the mail and I'm planning on installing myself.
For the 2 front gas shocks, should I get a shorter lower bolt and leave the other shock mount empty? Or should I use the same size (long) bolt and maybe put something in place of where the other shock would've mounted on the bottom?
Hopefully that makes sense. Thank you!!
 
Can we confirm these shocks are correct and that I just need to add some rubber ends and washers or something of that nature ? Also, if it's going to the upper mount, will it technically need to sit against the inside of the lower bracket, not in between since it won't fit?
I purchased "inner"shocks assuming that's what I was replacing. The quad shocks setup the upper shock mounts against the inside of the bracket while the rear facing shock fits snug in between.
Thanks in advance

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those will work with out any washers. Not sure about the duels going single, I do know I want the bracket on each side of mount
 
You want that shock mounted inside of the shock mount, not outside. It will spread enough to fit the shock in there.

Martin
 
82355 said:
You want that shock mounted inside of the shock mount, not outside. It will spread enough to fit the shock in there.

Martin
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Thanks Martin, I'll have another go at it today.

I came across your previous discussion from 2015 regarding shock-mounting locations.

I found the discussion very helpful for future ideas, but in this scenario I only have that stock bracket right now. Thanks for the help!
 
Martin, what are your thoughts regarding KEEPING the old (backwards facing) shock and long bolt in order to guide the new (vertical) shock where it previously sat?
Since the old shock is nearly useless, I figured it could be used in this case. But if you insist the new (vertical) shock can reach/ sit in the lower bracket where the old (backward) shock sat, I'm gonna give it a shot in the garage!
Thanks in advance for answering all these questions. Being a new Burb owner and a learning DIY'er, this has been a huge help.

Mark
 
Definitely use a short bolt, with the shock inside the lower mount. You could always trim the spacer on the shock.

Martin
 
After some serious bending, hammering, etc. I couldn't get the bolt to line up in the front lower bracket. The way it was going, it almost seemed I was going to do more damage than good. The best I could do (for now) is get the new front shock on using the old shock & bolt as support. I may try trimming the shock next like Martin suggested so that I can get it to sit in the bracket.
Replacing the rear however went very smooth!20210416_192142.jpg
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You took the short old shock off, right???

You only want one shock per side on the front. Throw away the old worn out shock.

Martin
 
Martin, as mentioned above, the new shock wouldn't properly line up with the lower bracket. After bending the bracket I had no luck and the shorter bolt was not going through
 
82355 said:
Odd. You only want a single shock.

Martin
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Understood. I'm going to try it again soon.
The shock wouldn't reach the lower bracket, so I had to release the plastic retainer in order to get it closer using a floor jack to guide the shock toward the bracket. Unfortunately, it was close but no cigar. The angle of the shock wouldn't allow the bolt to slide through the bracket
 
You can use a ratchet strap to compress the shock almost enough, within one tooth of short enough. Then you can use the ratchet lever to nudge it into alignment. The hardest part is keeping the ratchet on the ends while getting it close.

In your case, you could apply the strap with it still in place and just a little lift from the jack. Release the jack to load the strap, then work the long bolt out by tweaking the jack height. When the bolt come out, remove the old shock but otherwise leave it all alone, and it should be close to going right back in, then off with the strap.

You can also use the jack with the initial install in a similar way with the shock pre-tensioned in range by OEM strap or ratchet strap. Then use the jack to fine tune and align.
 
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