Need to change out my flexplate.. any tricks without a lift?

[Cntymnty77]

well to keep up with the constant bullshit problems, my flexplate has finally shit out. Replaced the replacement fuel pump and went to turn it over to check for leaks and now it won’t engage to start. I knew it was a matter of time but damn! I can’t catch a break!

So, after changing out a fuel pump twice, literally with one hand, I need to tackle this flexplate now and yes, I’ll gave to do it with one hand again. I’ll have to do it in the driveway with jack stands and a jack. I have a np208 and I’ve read that the dry weight is about 80 lbs. I feel like I could pull that and slide the trans back but it will have to be done in the driveway.

Does anyone have any tips/ tricks that I could put to use to make it go easier?

 

[sweetk30]

heard of guys doing all thread for loooong studs in place of bell housing bolts .

support the t-case

slide whole unit back still in truck after you un-bolt the convertor from flex plate first .

then you can have room to do it with out removing trans and t-case .

i my self have never done it this way since i have a shop/lift/trans jack/tools .

 

[6872xtc]

I know that the jack can make a big difference. With the right jack, you could leave the t-case on the trans.
Make sure that you can strap the trans to the jack, I have done it without a strap, and it can get hairy!
I have used a prybar to turn the engine over on the flywheel teeth. A turning tool makes it much easier!!!
I pull the dipstick out of the tube a few inches, then pull the tube. Then tie it up so as to swing the lower end towards the frame.
Disconnect the TV cable from the carb, this gives enough slack to disconnect from the trans. But I guess that you could leave it on the trans, and take it loose from the bracket. That might be better since you aren't swapping the trans.
I slide it back as far as possible, so that there is more room to work on the flexplate.

 

[Kain]

i dont have a lift but this made it easier to do the job when my trans went out

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-ton-Tr...990646?hash=item25da85c876:g:4nAAAOSwkRhZWy0k

 

[dyeager535]

I've run a strap over the bellhousing and across the converter to make sure it's held back and A) doesn't fall forward and puke fluid out and B) if done properly, keep the converter far enough back that you don't have to worry whether or not the converter is fully seated into the trans when you go to bolt it back up.

 

[tenderfoot]

I like the all thread idea. It would make it easy to bolt back up when your done.

 

[kgblazerfive]

All thread with a trans jack would be the best idea

 

[kgblazerfive]

You only need to pull it back far enough to undo the bolts that are holding the flex plate to the crank. So really depends on the size of your hand and the wrench.

 

[bp71k5]

Harbor freight has a motorcycle jack I use. It has a bigger flat area you can lift from and use blocks of wood to build up to match the trans and transfer case. I was able to slide by trans, 205, and magnum back a foot or so to replace the clutch disc. Didn't even have to lower the jack.

 

[Cntymnty77]

Thanks! You guys make it sound a lot easier!

 

[76zimmer]

I've used my motorcycle jack as well...works great for a doubler too!

 

[tenderfoot]

I'm still stoked by how easy it was to change my tranny out by using the old engine hoist through the shifter hole from the passenger side door. Ive got a 203, heavy SOB. So much good useful info from these guys on this site. I'm on this site more than a school girl on Facebook. I'm a CK5 junkie now.

 

[diesel4me]

A friend and I did a flex plate in a GM 4x4 using the floor jack transmission adapter linked in a post above,and 2 long 3/8" bolts about 6" long that only had 1" of threads...threaded rod will work but may make sliding the tranny back and putting it back in more difficult due to the threads hanging up on the bell housing..

We opted to unbolt the cross member and put bolts thru some holes in to and bolted it right to the jack adapter ,and also bolted a flat piece of metal against the torque converter across the two bell housing bolts closest to the middle of it, so it wouldn't slide out of engagement and require a full removal of the transmission to put it back in right..

We had to remove the downshift cable (Th350) and the shifter linkage ,and speedo cable..and the modulator hose too..the dipstick was a big pain in the a$$ to get in and out,we tried doing it without removing it but it hit the firewall..