Need to give gas for drive to engage

[MrTruck805]

First things first.... This actually isn't a square that's having a problem, it's a 68 Charger with a 440 stroker and automatic 3 speed 727 Torqueflite, however I assume the principles are all the same, and you guys are really good here

The issue is that I need to give a fair amount of gas before it will pop into gear. Reverse works just fine without issue. My fluid levels were just slightly low so I topped it off and that didn't change anything. Once it pops into gear I can drive around fine, it's just that I need to give a fair amount of gas for drive to actually engage - It's almost as if the kickdown is at second gear.

Any ideas?

 

[mrk5]

My first thought was low fluid but you answered that. Is it harsh when it finally engages, or does it kinda slip in like you were riding the clutch on a manual trans?

 

[MrTruck805]

Forgot to mention first it starts inching forward as I depress the gas pedal farther and farther, then when drive actually engages it feels a bit harsh but not too bad.

 

[mrk5]

If it doesn't feel like it's slipping, it's probably a valve that's hanging up a little or sticking. I don't know much about how you'd go about remedying that situation.

 

[wasted wages]

Is the car new to you ?

reason I ask is, if it has a very high stall converter installed by the previous owner, you may just be thinking it is slipping...

 

[ktmoutfront]

I was thinking high stall converter also. But he said it goes into reverse ok.

 

[MrTruck805]

I've had the car a while, never pulled the Tranny or engine though, so I'm unsure what type of stall converter is in there. Reverse does work perfectly though.

I was assuming a sticking valve, but I was hoping for something simpler haha.

 

[ktmoutfront]

I hate to say it, because I hate doing just a flush, but might be worth it to have the transmission flushed.

 

[wasted wages]

powerbrake it....about the time it starts to break the tires loose, watch the tach...

should give you some idea of the stall rpm..

oh, I forgot....it's a Dodge.... it might not be able to break the tires loose....










just kidding,..
I couldn't resist....







BTW..... I drive a Dodge 3500 Dually....

On a serious note, maybe Greg Ducato will chime in...he's the resident bad azz transmission dude around here....take his word as gospel...

 

[urbex]

if it has a very high stall converter installed by the previous owner, you may just be thinking it is slipping...

I was thinking high stall converter also. But he said it goes into reverse ok.

Obviously neither of you have ever had any seat time in a vehicle with a very high stall converter, because that is not at all how they work. Foot off brake, idle speed, a 6K stall converter will feel identical to a 1K stall converter. Or in other words, stall speed has absolutely nothing at all to do with the transmission engaging, not engaging, slipping, or how many RPM is needed to start a vehicle moving. Period. This is the same nonsense that leads people to replace perfectly good converters, usually when only some gears aren't engaging.

Autos are not all the same. 727 transmissions in particular have a converter drain-back "feature" that causes cold start engagement delays. It used to be common knowledge, "back in the day", that you couldn't immediately start a Chrysler, shift into drive, and go, as it took 10-15 seconds for the converter to fill back up. Shifting into neutral cut this time significantly, as a higher volume of fluid is pumping into the converter in neutral compared to park.

Next time, start the car, and let it idle for 30 seconds or so, and see if that changes any thing for you. If you still have the issue, it's much more likely that you have a failed seal internally, that increasing the RPM is masking by providing a higher volume of fluid flow.

 

[diesel4me]

Sometimes a leaking clutch piston lip seal lets fluid by-pass until enough pressure builds up (when rpms increase)...the piston wont clamp down on the clutches firmly until it gets enough pressure..

A worn front pump might cause this too,the pressure will be low until the rpms come up..maybe a pressure relief valve can do it also--but Greg is the guy who'll have the best answers..

I'm only relating what I saw on junkyard transmissions we sold that didn't pan out and the customer told us what they found wrong with them..