Need to hear your thought on polyethylene boby mount bushings.

[Kain]

the bracket you have to pull wont come out unless you drop it, dont know if you could get it with a little but worth a shot.
helpfull hint spray the bolts with penatrating oil like wd40 rust release penetrant. i sprayed mine for a month, twice a week. it helps
tryed to get them to come lose before that and no beano..........

 

[86_M1009]

Do you have to drop the gas tank to do the rear or can it just be lowered a little? I've been tossing around the idea to do the poly with the ord 1" pucks .

I did not know I was going to have to drop the tank. It can probably be done without doing so but to get the metal sleeve to line up with the bolt is a real pain in the ass. I had a ful, tank when I started so just defered completion till next weekend when I will have my dad on hand to lend a hand if needed. I have run the tank down to a quarter and will put about 25 miles on her this week. I will keep a couple galloms on standby so I dont get her airlocked in the process of burning most of the fuel.

I think you are gonna have to drop the tank all the way. Thenframe is open to the inside but blocked by the tank. You have to clear the frame which meqnse you got to disconnect all the lines. Might as well just drop it completely.

 

[prolinews]

I'm curious about how much of a job this? I ordered a new tank today because of the baffle being loose in my tank and I removed it. I am going to hold off on putting it in and get the bushings and pucks from ord since I have to drop the tank again.

 

[ryoken]

depends on how much rust/shape the rig is in... Arizona rig, probably go pretty smooth... rust belt rig, it can be a huge pain if the captured bolts start spinning and ya end up cutting the floor..


could be an afternoon, could be a long weekend...

 

[86_M1009]

it can be a huge pain if the captured bolts start spinning and ya end up cutting the floor..
could be an afternoon, could be a long weekend...

Soumds like you have done it. An issue I am having is is the bolts under the radiator core support aka position 1 are free spinning and I cannot find an in to get a wrench on the top side or even see if the are captive or not. I have not consulted the manual yet but maybe you (or anyone else) if they are captive or if you got to romove the bumper or radiator or something like that. I highly doubt those ones in particular are worn much. Only the pasemger side position 5 was pankacked on my rig. The rest showed 10% or less compression and no cracking from 1986. This teuck spent ten years in Kuwait and the rest of it's life in Barstow.

 

[86_M1009]

And ryoken, your rig is bad ass. I especially like the overhead console. I had been thinking about something like that but now I know it is the way to go.

 

[ryoken]

Soumds like you have done it. An issue I am having is is the bolts under the radiator core support aka position 1 are free spinning and I cannot find an in to get a wrench on the top side or even see if the are captive or not. I have not consulted the manual yet but maybe you (or anyone else) if they are captive or if you got to romove the bumper or radiator or something like that. I highly doubt those ones in particular are worn much. Only the pasemger side position 5 was pankacked on my rig. The rest showed 10% or less compression and no cracking from 1986. This teuck spent ten years in Kuwait and the rest of it's life in Barstow.

you need to pull the grill out.. just to the bottom left and right of the rad will be 2 oblong windows, the bolt heads are down in the bottom... ratchet, maybe a small extension.. they are not captured.. the captured ones that usually spin are the front cab ones...

the best is to get them all loose.. than do one side or the other.. ps or ds... lift one side, replace mounts.. bolt in, but leave loose.. than lift the other side and do those.. lower.. tighten all of them.. this helps you from getting the body all out of whack to the holes...

 

[ryoken]

And ryoken, your rig is bad ass. I especially like the overhead console. I had been thinking about something like that but now I know it is the way to go.

and thanks... the overhead turned out pretty neat...

 

[86_M1009]

Thanks bud, I was thinking it was the grill that had to come out. I started to remove it but ended up just waiting. I got the top screws off and then coild not find the next point to loosen expediently. My 30 minute project was already dragging on and I figured the front ones are the last ones to worry about so I just moved on down the line. I ended up doing only the pasenger side 2 thrue 4 and have the top bushing in on 5 but not fully reassembled. Gonna drop the tank next week and finish pasnger 5 and then do the driver side at the same time. My tank is just under a quarter now so I estimage 7 gallons. Should be able to burn most of that this week.

 

[ryoken]

yeah, the front are actually the easiest to deal with usually.. iirc, if you know where the windows are, you can actually do the front ones with the grill in, from reaching up and behind the bumper, albeit more of a nuisance than with the grill out..

 

[86_M1009]

I gave up after almost dislocating my own wrist trying to get a wrench into where I suspected there to possibly be something g to bite on. Gonna sit down with the diagrams before I make another run at it. Maybe the military lifting point hardware makes this more dificult in my case?

 

[ryoken]

just pull the grill and they'll be staring ya in the face.. take ya 15 minutes...

 

[Kain]

i had to cut the floor when one of the bolts spun

 

[86_M1009]

One option is to tack weld the bolt. I would get very resourceful to avoid cutting the floor.

 

[ryoken]

One option is to tack weld the bolt. I would get very resourceful to avoid cutting the floor.

there's no way to do that..

cutting the floor is simple.. ya cut a 3 sided window and bend it up on the 4th side, above the capture cage.. remove old stuff...that's generally how you get the new bolt "captured" tho once you get the old setup out and new bolt in, ya put a big fat tack weld on it, under the floor down in the support.. than bend the window down and weld up the floor......