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Need to learn basics

Wes Harden said:
After rereading my post. The direction to turn choke cover is wrong.
Turn clockwise then tighten screws.
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Wes,
Thank you for taking the time to educate me. I'm currently waiting on a spark plug extraction socket. The back (driver side) plug is a bitch to reach, the nut is slightly rounded. Not sure if it was me or when it was installed. Once I get it removed & cleaned i will proceed with your instructions. at the ready. Not what I wanted to hear but thanks for the heads up.
Is it best to use the suggested plugs (blueprint recommendations) [NGK 7938 BKR5E] or are there better ones?
 
Ngk are good plugs, the 5 denotes the heat range. 5 is the middle of the heat range. Once the truck is up and driving a bit we will check the plugs for color and may be go up or down in heat range. NGK 1 is hot and 10 cold, most other brands are the exact opposite.

Rounding a spark plug takes a little effort, esp on a new build engine. The rear driver #7 is kinda pita, I use a spark plug socket with a built in universal wobble, extensions as necessary, all in 3/8 drive.
installing the plugs, I have an old straight spark plug boot(no wire) put plug in boot and thread in by hand. Normally I can thread them all the way in by hand, then snug with a socket and 10" 3/8 drive ratchet.

What cylinder heads does your engine have ? the plugs listed are not what I'd expect a sbc use
 
Wes Harden said:
Ngk are good plugs, the 5 denotes the heat range. 5 is the middle of the heat range. Once the truck is up and driving a bit we will check the plugs for color and may be go up or down in heat range. NGK 1 is hot and 10 cold, most other brands are the exact opposite.

Rounding a spark plug takes a little effort, esp on a new build engine. The rear driver #7 is kinda pita, I use a spark plug socket with a built in universal wobble, extensions as necessary, all in 3/8 drive.
installing the plugs, I have an old straight spark plug boot(no wire) put plug in boot and thread in by hand. Normally I can thread them all the way in by hand, then snug with a socket and 10" 3/8 drive ratchet.

What cylinder heads does your engine have ? the plugs listed are not what I'd expect a sbc use
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I believe they are aluminum cylinder heads..
 
Blue85 said:
Dang, that thing is nice. Reminds me so much of when I bought mine 26 years ago.

You'll have to be more specific. The information is all posted here *somewhere*. If you need help, do Google searches with "site:CK5.com". A factory Quadrajet can be pretty reliable. Visual inspection of everything is a good start. Any current drivability issues or weird noises?
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Thank you
I had my mechanic inspect it, since I'm no mechanic...
Stated there are shavings in the rear differential, stable for a 40 year old truck, slight shake at advance speeds (70-88), bushings are old & worn.
 
To be fair, there is always some amount of metal in the gear oil, especially if it hasn't been changed in 100,000 miles. It could be as simple as some pitting in a bearing race and a quick fix, or as bad as a broken shim or bearing that has let the gearset destroy itself. Your shake at high speed is pretty normal and may not be related to the rear end. It's not uncommon for larger tires to be out of round or not properly balanced.
 
Blue85 said:
To be fair, there is always some amount of metal in the gear oil, especially if it hasn't been changed in 100,000 miles. It could be as simple as some pitting in a bearing race and a quick fix, or as bad as a broken shim or bearing that has let the gearset destroy itself. Your shake at high speed is pretty normal and may not be related to the rear end. It's not uncommon for larger tires to be out of round or not properly balanced.
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Thank you.
I have to open the rear differential for myself to confirm, just going on my mechanics inspection. I dont think the rear has 100000 miles on it.
I really appreciate the constant advice.
 
I've had Quadrajet, Edelbrock, Carter AFB, and Holley carbs on my square body pickups over the years. The Quadrajet carb is a great carb when they run right and are tuned correctly without any throttle plate bore or other vacuum leaks.

I run Holley carbs on my 80 Chevy SWB K20 4x4 pickup, and on my 72 Monte Carlo. The newer Holley carbs have better power valves that aren't so prone to blowing if there's an engine backfire through an intake valve.

I've rebuilt them in the past and I've done certain mods to them to make them perform better. I've adjusted the curb idle circuits via by ear, or with a vacuum gauge attached to the carb. Once I have the engine running at operating temp, I'll adjust the curb idle screws in until it starts choking the engine down and then open them back up to where you get the best idle and it runs the smoothest. Then repeat for the other side of the carb. If you use a vacuum gauge, you can see the vacuum gauge top out at its best upper range when you're adjusting the idle mixture screws in small increments.
 
80 Chevy K20 4x4 said:
I've had Quadrajet, Edelbrock, Carter AFB, and Holley carbs on my square body pickups over the years. The Quadrajet carb is a great carb when they run right and are tuned correctly without any throttle plate bore or other vacuum leaks.

I run Holley carbs on my 80 Chevy SWB K20 4x4 pickup, and on my 72 Monte Carlo. The newer Holley carbs have better power valves that aren't so prone to blowing if there's an engine backfire through an intake valve.

I've rebuilt them in the past and I've done certain mods to them to make them perform better. I've adjusted the curb idle circuits via by ear, or with a vacuum gauge attached to the carb. Once I have the engine running at operating temp, I'll adjust the curb idle screws in until it starts choking the engine down and then open them back up to where you get the best idle and it runs the smoothest. Then repeat for the other side of the carb. If you use a vacuum gauge, you can see the vacuum gauge top out at its best upper range when you're adjusting the idle mixture screws in small increments.
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How do I find out what model Holley Carburetor this is & how can I adjust it without a vacuum gauge (don't own one or used b4)?
 
Wes Harden said:
the choke is probably not set to close. Hollies run so dam rich they hardly need one. The electric choke cover only needs a keyed on 12v source. An 85 would have had this wire factory I will look and see I can find the bulk head cavity and wire color. once we get that wire hooked up we can set the choke.

Until then loosen the 3 choke cover screws turn the choke cover back and forth while watching the choke butterfly valve, when it starts to move stop then turn the cover counter clockwise a bit more and tighten the 3 screws. This should keep the choke from closing when engine is closed and maybe fouling plugs.

Build thread is just a place for your personal thread about this K5, helps to keep everything you do to your truck in one place. esp when the A.G.E virus take that memory away.
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Thanks man. The float was so high the adjustment nut was detached, gas poured out the inspection screw in the side. I think I have (2) floats, 1 in the back, I've not checked yet. It's a bitch to stretch over the engine to reach it.
There's a little white smoke out of the passenger side exhaust when I start the truck, not too cold i don't think (AZ) 65-70 degrees when I start the truck. Garaged. It goes away after a few minutes, I hope it's nothing major.
 
if that white smoke goes away after a few mins, it's nothing to worry about. Yes there are 2 floats to adjust. Where a bouts in AZ do you call home ?
 
If a fuel bowl float is too high, it will dump excess fuel which can be causing the white smoke upon startup.

Get both floats set to the correct height, and it should run more better and smoother.
 
That is good to know, everything is read was potentially a big problem. I have noticed a difference since adjusting the float in the front, gotta get to the one on the back.
 
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