Need to torque brake fitting!

[Mastiff]

I've got a stubborn fitting that is still just barely seeping. I cranked it with a flare wrench until it started rounding out. I know the purists say I should replace the line or re-flare or whatever, but this is the drivers front and the line goes up under the motor mount, behind the ORD frame stiffener, etc. It's a major PITA to replace.

Anyway, I was starting to contemplate a way to build my own tool with half of a 6 point closed wrench on each jaw of a vice grip. That way you could crank it down and lose that last slop that allows it to round out.

For kicks I surfed on "vice grip flare wrench" and came across these:

"Vise-Grip 4LW Locking Wrench"

It seems awesome except that I have a 3/8" fitting, and the version for that size is only 4" long, which doesn't provide much leverage. The next one up is 7" long, which seems perfect, but it claims it only goes down to 7/16".

Anyone aware of something better along these lines?

 

[Stomis]

Just use regular rounded vice grips man. You're already mauling the fitting as it is. Might as well finish the job and have it seal up...

 

[ktmoutfront]

I made one out of an old flare wrench once. Only used it to loosen fittings. When they are 40 years old, they round off easy. Never used it to tighten one though.

 

[4X4HIGH]

if the flare is bad it doesn't matter how tight you try to make the fitting as it will still leak and probably worse than before. Unfortunately there is really no other way around fixing this other than making a new flare on the line.

 

[Mastiff]

Just use regular rounded vice grips man. You're already mauling the fitting as it is. Might as well finish the job and have it seal up...

It's not mauled yet. I was hoping the right tool could crank it down without big teeth marks.

I was surfing about this and people claim that cheap flare wrenches (like my craftsman) tend to spread when torqued and round stuff out. Snap on is stiffer I guess, and doesn't do this.

 

[Stomis]

It's not mauled yet. I was hoping the right tool could crank it down without big teeth marks.

I was surfing about this and people claim that cheap flare wrenches (like my craftsman) tend to spread when torqued and round stuff out. Snap on is stiffer I guess, and doesn't do this.

This is true. Best flare wrenches Ive seen is my easy reds. My gearwrenches suck in smaller sides and Ive used craftsman ones that were horrible.

 

[Mastiff]

This is true. Best flare wrenches Ive seen is my easy reds. My gearwrenches suck in smaller sides and Ive used craftsman ones that were horrible.

Is this one good? It's the same part # as what they currently show on the snap on site.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121320807825

 

[Stomis]

IMO these are the best line wrench Ive ever used.

I have them in metric and am going to buy them in standard. They dont flex AT ALL and the other end is great for bleeders.


http://www.amazon.com/E-Z-Red-FN875...399767780&sr=8-4&keywords=ez+red+flare+wrench

 

[ryoken]

It's not mauled yet. I was hoping the right tool could crank it down without big teeth marks.

I was surfing about this and people claim that cheap flare wrenches (like my craftsman) tend to spread when torqued and round stuff out. Snap on is stiffer I guess, and doesn't do this.

as with most hand tools, ya can't touch Snappy.. crapsman , even older ones, suck in comparison...

and I own both sizes in those visegrips.. they actually work pretty good in that kinda situation.. curved ones will just destroy it, those will keep it intact..

all that said, Scott is right.. you shouldn't have to tighten the ever-living-snot out of it for it to not leak..

 

[Mastiff]

all that said, Scott is right.. you shouldn't have to tighten the ever-living-snot out of it for it to not leak..

Yeah, I know. I had it to where I couldn't get it to leak without the truck running, and it just had a tiny seep after driving around. I'm so close, I want to try to get out of it without replacing the line. I replaced it once a long time ago and remember the amount of cussing required... not pretty.

I've never flared my own lines, always bought pre-flared sections. If I had to, could I flare it in place? Will the tools fit in there (factory front location)?