Need you rear disc swap input.

[marine_enlisted]

I know a lot of you guys have done the rear disc brake mod. Their seems to be a lot of questions involving master cylinders, proportioning valves, which calipers to use, which booster, etc.
I think it would answer a lot of questions if those of you who have already done the swap could post up any problems you came across and their solutions.

Include in your post the following items(in regards to the brake system): what your rig was equipped with originally, what changes you have made from stock, do you drive it on the street often, do you tow/haul with your rig, are your brakes proportioned correctly,are you using a parking brake,what problems have you encountered, what actions did you take to resolve those problems. Please feel free to include pics, and part numbers.

Anyone else that has any questions to add by all means do so.

I am hoping this will clear up the gray area when it comes to getting the brakes proportioned correctly for on and off road use.

 

[ratzila]

I started out with a 1990 V2500 suburban. When I swapped to d60 & 14ff I went with a TSM rear disc brake kit. I did not have to change anything else. I did lose the e-brake but in the future I will go with HAD 205 transfer case
e-brake kit since I have already purchased their driveshafts.By the way,the rear disc brakes dont have any problems STOPPING a suburban with 44" boogers /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
I have heard of people swapping in corvette m/s because the
resevoir is equal in size for 4 wheel discs. But until I have any problems I will leave mine alone.

 

[marine_enlisted]

Thanks. Thats the kind of input I'm looking for. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

 

[Beast388]

I guess I was lucky. I did not have to change the MC or add a prop. valve when I swapped in the disced 14BFF. I used Echobit brackets, Az-Kickin's hose kit, and calipers & rotors from Autozone. I just gravity bled the brakes and I was good to go.

I have towed a trailer with about 3 tons of dirt on it and I had no problem stopping that much weight. Discs rule!

/forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif

 

[tRustyK5]

Az-kicken rear disc kit, local parts store rotor's and calipers and pads. I did swap the MC for one off of a 83 C30 due to doing the hydro-boost swap at the same time. Factory unmolested prop/combo valve and no other mods though.

Haven't towed anything, and the truck stops very well with very balanced (IMO) braking bias front to rear. The rears might lock up a micro-second before the fronts do and that's on 40's.

We gravity bled them first, then did a regular two man bleed to make sure the air was gone.

Rene

 

[Desert Rat]

I'm in the process of doing the swap myself. I did the AZ-Kickin brackets, and SS hose kit, TSM e-brake calipers, and I will probably buy a flare tool and custom make my rear brake lines. I installed an Inline Tube proportioning valve that they make especially for 4 wheel disc conversions. I have a brand new M/C and booster so I will try running that first and see how it goes.

 

[cybrfire]

I make these kits and have installed them on three trucks myself. One thing I have noticed is the caliper castings are not consistent from one to the next. Not the mounting holes but the part that goes between the ears of the bracket. Some have had to be filed smooth to float properly. Didn't take much but it was there. Two of the trucks the brakes bled real nice and wasn't any problem. One of them it took a long time to get all the air out but eventually it came out. Haven't as of yet had any need for any kind of propotioning valve or 4 wheel disc master cylinder. One truck was a blazer one was a stepside with a really lightweight aluminum box the third was a shortbox pickup.