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Need your opinion on what to do with my Rearend.

So which option should I go with?

  • Total voters
    25
J

jays68yak

1/2 ton status
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A little back ground..I daily drive a 94 k2500 ext cab short bed truck. Its the lighter 3/4 ton so its still 6 lug. In the past few months I have put a new crate motor in, a rebuilt tranny, and now the rearend has blown up. I killed the pinion and everyone of the ring gear teeth and chipped. Im torn between what I should do to fix it. Its a daily driver, 60+ miles a day, and my tow rig for the beater. Currently has a 14bsf with 4:10s and a gov loc.


1. New Eaton limited slip, new 4:10 gears, master rebuild kit, new axle bearings and seals. $1000

2. Used gov lock, new gears, master rebuild kit, new axle bearings. $700

3. Used gov lock, used gears, master rebuild kit, new axle berings. $500

4. Drop in the 14bff that I have sitting at my parents, already should have 4:10s, its open, would need to move purches, shock mounts, its 8 lug, my wheels are 6 lug. So i would either need to convert it to 6 lug or buy new wheels and then change the front to match.

5. Trade the 14bff for a 14bsf with a gov loc and 4:10 gears, but the mileage is either 120k or 220k, and it wouldnt bolt in since its from an 88 suburban and is also 8 lug. Could swap the gears and gov loc to my housing. Cost of master rebuild kit and axle bearings. $250.
 
Use tha carrier that is in it now, and add new gears and install kit. That would be cheapre than all of the options that you listed.
That is, unless you broke the carier also.
 
readymix said:
Use tha carrier that is in it now, and add new gears and install kit. That would be cheapre than all of the options that you listed.
That is, unless you broke the carier also.
Click to expand...

Ive had issues with the gov loc not locking or staying locked and I figure while im at it might as well go with something new or less use on it.
 
If the gov-lock has given you problems already, I'd say stay away. My 14SF has issues as well with the gov-lock.

I'd probably choose the Eaton as a daily driver/tow rig, unless you plan on getting the wheels off the ground, the Eaton should be fine.

I'd opt for the 800lb spring option, but last I checked they hadn't come out with that for the 14SF yet. I had asked Randy's R&P, but that was over 6 months ago, and I *think* the 800lb kit for the Eaton was supposed to be out by now.

Of course, now that I think about it more, you have at least two more options for the 9.5" diff.

Here's one: http://www.traction.eaton.com/prod7.htm Yeah, pricey, but compared to many of the other traction options for the 9.5, it's not THAT much more expensive considering how well that thing works.

The other is this one: http://www.detroitlocker.com/DT.htm The elocker is leaps and bounds better than this, but this one, with the wheels on the ground, is going to tend to be better than posi. You can still overcome the wheel in the air spinning issue, but it's a bit more involved.
 
Last edited:
looks like im going to be dropping the 14bff in. Getting someone to mod me some hubs, then converting it to disc.
 
Barring the change to 6-lug (and/or buying wheels), changing to the 14BFF is the cheapest and strongest of the options.
 
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