needing help to figure out whats wrong.

[k5bodyboy]

Hey got a question for everyone. where am I going wrong I've run onto a bunch of road blocks like having most of my friends leave to go to Iraq to help with the fight. Those friends are the one who are normally willing to help when I hit a road block.
Any how the problem that I'm having is the clutch conversion that I'm currently working on. Is that I'm working with the clutch master cylinder, that slave cylinder , and supply line to and from both.
The problem is that I'm not getting any response from the slave clyinder I've breen trying to get all the air out of the line and it just doesn't seem to be working. And I was also wondering if at all is there a difference between the throw-out bearingsof the mechanicle pedal assembly and the hydraulic piston (slave cylinder). I was told that there was a difference from NOVAK-ADAPTERS the guy there said the difference is that the throw-out bearing for the hydro. assembly is thicker.
My good friend over seas said that if might be binding as well if there is any metal shardes in the fluid from the binding that it would cause premature failure in the diaphram in the master cylinder.
Sorry for being so long winded just really frustated.
Thankx for your time.
K5bodyboy
1985 GMC JIMMY w/ 355 putting out 425hp on the dyno. 3in. body lift and 4 in. suspension w/ 4:10's and soon 5:38's on 38.5 groung hawgs trucks ugly as hell but Im proud of it and it keeps me out of trouble , but always in trouble w/ my wife.

 

[SnackPack]

I've dealt with this a few times... I found the best way to bleed it is actually a one man job. Make sure you bench bleed both cylinders before starting. Then, while working with the slave, connect it to the line making sure you don't let any of the bench-bleed fluid run out.

Leave the reservoir open, but leave the diaphragm in there, and push the slave piston all the way in. While it's in, crack the slave bleeder, close it, and release the piston. Repeat while checking the reservoir level.

This basically bleeds the line, which should be the only component with air in it after the bench bleed. I've tried all the other documented ways, and this one has always worked for me. It's an awesome feeling when you try the clutch pedal and there's resistance.

 

[dyeager535]

If you don't get any slave movement at all, then it's not going to be a throwout bearing issue. I know the fork is different between mech and hydraulic (assuming stock parts), but just can't remember on the bearing. Easy enough tocheck on napaonline.com or something I suspect.

I bled the slave by unbolting from the bellhousing, opening the bleeder, angling the bleeder so it is oriented well for bleeding, then proceeded to operate/bleed it via a screwdriver (or anything) to push the piston back, closing the bleeder for piston return.

 

[dyeager535]

FYI, you will destroy your master cylinder by operating the pedal with the slave cylinder not hooked up to the bellhousing/clutch fork.