Needs sites for garages and pole barns... where the cheapest places?

[jjlaughner]

Looking for a 42x30 up to about 58x42, needs to be able to divide into two areas (concrete and gravel areas for heated and unheated areas), would like to have a loft area for extra storage. can this be done for under 10-14K including the concrete?

I'm working on some sketches but I need some websites for pricing ideas and such... custom building possibly.

 

[big pappa b]

I've been looking to for when we move in January. If we don't buy a place that laready has one I will have to buy one. I will not be without a garage EVER AGAIN.

Google for Metal buildings or Pole barns

More than you can shake a K5 at /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[jekbrown]

assuming you dont have a lot of excavation to do (cha-ching!) then your price-range is definitely do-able. If ya have any friends with heavy equipment or that pour concrete that owe you a favor, now is the time to cash in...

j

 

[jjlaughner]

Well normally we would build the whole thing ourself and smooth out the concrete and the whole shabang. BUT, pops is gettin old, dont have the time or the want to build another building and I can't do it myself. We also want it done before the winter. I'll prbley end up finishing it and running all the electrical and hard air lines. I designed a building last night that he really liked and the size is very doable for our property and still be within normal truss sizes. Now if we can find a place willing to build a simple custom building. We'll have the pole barn built then frame int eh dividing wall and conrete work and pour the concrete inside the building ourselves.

Anyone know anything about the heat in floor? I seen something about it in a basement on this old house awhile back. THey layed down foam pad, then used clips to hold water line, then they weaved water line through the clips then poured the concrete over the top. I think this would be ideal for a garage floor since sometimes your on the floor, constant heat for tools (we have a moisture problem in the main garage when you heat it up quickly in the winter). Chance are the building will store more than vehicles and tools, like old clothes and furniture and wood. We'll probley also end up with forced air and AC next summer /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
Dads wanting a wood shop and I'm wanting a metal shop out of the building. I designed off a 36' loft type truss. the building is 42x36, it will be half gravel and half concrete (the heated side). Then the upstrairs will be two rooms storage and wood working tools. I'll take a digital pic later and try to clean it up and up load it. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

 

[darkshadow]

when my old work needed a new shop we had a local farm building builder(good one) price it out just under 3000square feet, post and beam, clad with steel, noinsulation, no doors or windows, 56,000. so we called the menanites (sp) they billed 51000 for over 3000 feet full foundation, fullframed, insulated, clad with steel inside and out with doors and windows.

we put in our own floor with infloor heating, and two gerage doors. If there is a group in your area its a good way too look.

i hurd you can get lucky, a buddys was telling me the guy across the street was styarting to tare down his old barn, an old menaite guy said he would do it and give a new shop for the barn. they dissasembled itand rebuilt it on there property, and build him a new shop!!! i only with i could get that lucky /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif

 

[m j]

heated floors or driveways
3" thick styrene insulation
concrete reinforing screen with heat lines zip tied to it
pour your slab over
nothing special about it

 

[jjlaughner]

can you put the foam on the ground or does there need to be a gravel base? The area we are going to build sit pretty high already. We'll probley frame in around the poles and have a couple loads of rocks dumped in; Maybe just not as thick in that area where concrete is going.

I'm working on a image of the barn I designed. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

 

[jjlaughner]

Here's the first draft/layout
We have a 26' camper, 16' boat, a feiro and then a work bay that I'll buy a 9K lb lift for.

Main truss setup would be a 36' loft truss, 12' ceilings with an 8' tall loft area. Plans are for a 42'x36' pole barn and the front wall will be set back 4' for an overhang. The front section of the building will be heated and concrete, the back portion will be gravel and non-heated. The loft area will be two rooms, storage and woodworking. The main floor will be cars and metal shop. If we had a drain setup for the back of the lot we would have a sink and shitter out there. There will be infloor water heat and probley a forced air setup next summer with AC /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif

The front doors will be 8x8, 8x8, 10x9 then a standard 36" entry door. The left side in the back area will be a 10'x12' barn slider, then on the right side rear will be an 8'x8' door for the mowers and extra storage. All of this will be in addition to the three car attached and 1 car detached garagess and two 100'x40' driveways /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

 

[diesel4me]

When I built the shop at my parents house , it had to be real inexpensive for two reasons--one I had limited funds,and two,the fact that I probably wont get to keep it if my mom decides to sell the property or whatever --it was built knowing it will have to be either movable,or I'd have to leave it behind and all the expense would come out of my pocket. I settled on a metal quonset style building--its not that ugly,now they have newer style ones with gable roofs that are more residential looking.Mine was 20x40 ft,I hade the sidewalls cut down to lower the peak to 13 ft,a stupid move in a way,it prevents me from making a second floor,and wastes a lot of potential storage space,since there are no rafters or trusses. The building I bought was 4,050 bucks delivered,the foundation and walls and floor cost 2,750 bucks including excavation(friends with backhoes rule! /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif)anb I built it pretty much by myself after some friends helped me get the first 2 arches up.One peice at a time,just like the Johnny Cash song!--took me about two weeks. Theese prices were in 1992--but I've seen several more companies selling theese buildings now,and some for even less than I paid! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif. I wish I did put in the radiant floor heat,it was suggested to me but I didnt really have the moo-lah,so I have 2 55 gallon barrel wood stoves for some free heat,and a welded up old hot air furnace that burns more diesel than my 6.2 per hour if I feel the need to burn money--man,it would be nice to lay on a heated floor,instead of a cold slab,like the one at the mourgue--I bet it would be like a heating pad!. Since I have had this building to use,I dread the day I may have to leave it--but I know I will never be without an outbuilding,or at least a carport again--its nice working outside(I can see a lot better outside)but like today,I drag out my torches,tools and electrical cords to make a doorskin and patch my cab corners up--2 hrs into it,here comes the rain for two more days--shoulda done it in the shop! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif.

 

[gzzgfw]

Menards,
I farted around for 2 years deciding on what I wanted and what I could really afford.
They have a handy computer to design and price what you want.
For my 26x36 building complete with doors & delivered 3800. I think they are Midwest Manufacturing.
Concrete is what kills you. I spent 1700 on concrete and 300 for a local fireman to finish it on the side.
Build it as big as you can afford cause' it ain't never big enough.

 

[jjlaughner]

Yeah we've priced building materials through there, but dad doesn't want to build it and he can't get the deisgn he wants through there. He wants to hire it out and have them mess with all the meterials and such. We'll probley do the concrete work ourselves. We have all the tools and we might as well as long as we do it before the sides go on... thats what makes pole barns a pain, finishing the inside. I'd like to do the posts, concrete and gravel then have a crew come in and put the trusses up, roof it slap the sides on and doors up in a week, then I can do the wiring and finished the walls inside and lay the floor for upstairs. Once the outside wall goes up I'd have them come out and drop a power line to it and I'd fire up the air nailer and go to town on the inside. Still debating but I'm pushing for the insulated shet metal and dad wants it shingled to match the house. So its adding up quickly. I think I might go out and stake off the back yard and start planning on removing some trees. We have a bunch of 12-15 yr old fruit trees that getting nasty and dont produce much fruit and all the grape vines are about dead so once we have a big bonfire I think all the side posts are coming out of the yard. The only land/prpoperty resrictions I know of are you can't build within 100' of the front of the lot (thats why all the houses in the neighborhood sit back off the road), 15' from the back (service area) and 7' from the sides.

So Mark when are you comin up to checkout the bucket and take this snowmobile off my hands /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif

 

[therobzilla]

I'm in the business for the most part, I supply most of the structural piers and header systems to a bunch of large metal building suppliers.

Need to try steelbuilding.com, and Heritage Building Systems, they are two of the biggest in the country.

Right now the steel industry is in a upheaval, hot rolled and cold rolled products are way over priced compared to a year ago, be prepared to spend more than you initially budgeted for.

Good luck.

Rob