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nevermind.

CherryK5

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It would be for a 14bff

From what i've heard, more often than not they lock up around a turn anyways. Unless of course you're coasting. Which i consider a very counter productive way of getting where you're going.. And to me anything more than 400 bucks is pushing it, so i dunno about the detroit (unless i find a cheap used one). If im going to spend that much i would rather weld it up for free and put that money towards 2 new tires in a year or two...
 
You would be much better off with the locker. Most lockers allow for about 1/4 turn of differentiation once you give it gas, which is often enough. You will feel it engage once you have used up that 1/4 turn. Welded spiders give you NONE, on the gas or off, and that can cause all kinds of problems, especially with soft, wide, tall off road tires.
Also welded spiders have a tendency to break. I know you were hoping I would say go for it, but I really wouldn't.
 
You would be much better off with the locker. Most lockers allow for about 1/4 turn of differentiation once you give it gas, which is often enough. You will feel it engage once you have used up that 1/4 turn. Welded spiders give you NONE, on the gas or off, and that can cause all kinds of problems, especially with soft, wide, tall off road tires.
Also welded spiders have a tendency to break. I know you were hoping I would say go for it, but I really wouldn't.

No i wouldnt weld up the spiders. It would be completely welded. Carriers are cheap and easy to find.
 
Weld it if you want to wear your tires out in 100 miles
 
I've ran a welded 14FF for years with 35" MT/R's, 38" and 39.5" TSL's. If done correctly, and it's not rocket science, there should be no strength issues. I've broke stock inner and outer D60 axle shafts over the years and never any issues with the rear welded diff.

It was never a daily driver with the welded diff, but did get driven to the trails for years (almost always 150-200 mile round trip). There was a small amount of extra wear on the back tires with the MT/R's, and fairly noticable with the 38" TSL's....but wearing them out in 100 miles is obviously quite a bit of exaggeration.

A friend has run a welded D70 rear for years in his F-250 with 42's and a built big block and never had any issues. With the long wheelbase the only way you can tell there is more wear on the rear tires is actually measuring the tread.

Not quite sure I would want a welded rear diff on a daily driver, but it could be done with only minor issues. Handling has never been an issue and only on slow tight turns you can hear the tires chirp.
 
Ive had a welded 14 bolt, and a lock right and finally have a detroit. I ran all three on daily driven trucks and a detroit is the only way I would go for street driving other than arb or an electric locker but they are obviously more money.

The welded rear gave me no problems other than my tire tread being gone before I was ready. aggressive tires wear out fast enough on their own, they dont need any help. I have a welded rear in my off road only truck now and love it but it rides a trailer on pavement.

the lock right was noisy and I mean really noisy. maybe they are not all as noisy or maybe mine was malfunctioning but it clicked popped and banged all the time. I constantly had people asking me what was wrong with my rear end while it was in there and it seemed like it was locked up all the time.

now I have had my detroit for a little over a year and wow what a difference. no noise, ever once in a while there is a small bang but I think Ive only heard it once or twice since I got it. and it may lock up around corners a lot but judging by my tire wear it doesnt look like it. I havent noticed any abnormal tire wear and the best part is both tires spin when you give it gas.

for me its just not worth it to cheap out and have something less than a detroit for a street driven rig.
 
My lock-rite was LOUD when I first put it in and very aggressive. So aggressive that when I first pulled out of the driveway the first thought through my mind was "Oh Jesus what have I done?!?! Ive RUINED it!". Anyway, after a couple months it 'broke in' and now I dont even notice it. Sure itll throw out the odd clang or bang here or there, but 95% of the time, dont even notice it.
 
My lock-rite was LOUD when I first put it in and very aggressive. So aggressive that when I first pulled out of the driveway the first thought through my mind was "Oh Jesus what have I done?!?! Ive RUINED it!". Anyway, after a couple months it 'broke in' and now I dont even notice it. Sure itll throw out the odd clang or bang here or there, but 95% of the time, dont even notice it.

maybe I just didnt leave mine in long enough to get broke in. It was only in there for a few weeks before I decided it was either broke or gonna break something. :dunno:
 
I have a Powertrax no-slip in my 10b and love it....no noise and works great. But I'm going to D60 w/tracloc and 14bff w/detroit in near future.

wheels
 
I`ve had two lockrights, one in a 91 toyota v6 with 33`s ,and one in a 84 diesel landcruiser, with 33`s. I was happy with them, and put many miles on them.
But they were in toyotas, not sure how they last or work in a gm.
 
Hmm I guess I'm unlucky. I was running around on my 39.5 tsl's for around 100 miles and they are noticeably worn compared to the fronts now
 
I have a Powertrax no-slip in my 10b and love it....no noise and works great. But I'm going to D60 w/tracloc and 14bff w/detroit in near future.

wheels

re think your choice in red.

trac loc nick name is weak wear out fast light duty trash loc. for 4x4 use.

if you want a good posi go get its big brother power lock.

power lock is 2 peice carrier . trac lock 1 peice carrier.

from what i have asked over the years all say not again with light duty trac loc . power loc yep love it. its tight and stays tight.

i had 2 new units sold one to this guy. he posted pics and what he liked about it. if you want to read. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=265741&highlight=power+loc

just my opinion. do as you wish. but info is good as setin up gears only needs to be done 1 time for the effort you go threw. :thumb:
 
Hi-jack

The trac lock posi came with the D60 when I bought it and was planning on leaving it in........but since I will be regearing, maybe swapping in a power lock is something to think about.
Thanks for the info.....and my drowning bank account. :D

wheels
 
blablabla...If im going to spend that much i would rather weld it up for free and put that money towards...blablabla

So exactly what was the question again?
 
Ive had a welded 14 bolt, and a lock right and finally have a detroit. I ran all three on daily driven trucks and a detroit is the only way I would go for street driving other than arb or an electric locker but they are obviously more money.

The welded rear gave me no problems other than my tire tread being gone before I was ready. aggressive tires wear out fast enough on their own, they dont need any help. I have a welded rear in my off road only truck now and love it but it rides a trailer on pavement.

the lock right was noisy and I mean really noisy. maybe they are not all as noisy or maybe mine was malfunctioning but it clicked popped and banged all the time. I constantly had people asking me what was wrong with my rear end while it was in there and it seemed like it was locked up all the time.

now I have had my detroit for a little over a year and wow what a difference. no noise, ever once in a while there is a small bang but I think Ive only heard it once or twice since I got it. and it may lock up around corners a lot but judging by my tire wear it doesnt look like it. I havent noticed any abnormal tire wear and the best part is both tires spin when you give it gas.

for me its just not worth it to cheap out and have something less than a detroit for a street driven rig.

This ^^

Detroit FTW, especially for a dual purpose rig that sees street. I found mine to be 'invisible' for the most part...but put the hammer down and there was never any question you had 100% traction.

Rene
 
I will argue for a detriot or lock rite or an actual locker all day long against the spool welded guys.

But for a different reason than most do. I wheel mostly in rocks and it seems the welded and spool guys when they need to turn tight, they push the front end more than the locker guys. This is in a rig with lockers or welded in the rear, nothing in the front. Even with a locker in the front it seems to be the case. The locker seems to allow an ability to turn just slightly tighter when trying to pull around in some rocks from a dead start. Mind you this is when you are in heavy rocks and are usually flexed out.

I have run both and much prefer the locker.
 
I still wore out the front tires before the rears. mine has had a spool for about 8 years.

cherryk5- i thought we already did this?

I know but I'm ready to order one, and I still can't see how running a lockright (which locks when torque is applied) will be any better than a welded diff. And I here just as much "ive never had any wear issues" as I do "its going to rape your tires"
 

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