New 6” Lift Installed on My Crew Cab (PICS Inside)

[1-ton]

I finally have my 6” lift installed on my Crew Cab. It has Tuff Country 6” EZ Rides up front, and 4” shackle flip from DIY4X, with a 3” Lift block in the rear. It also has a 1” ORD Body lift as well. I currently have a set of 35/12.50/16 tires, but I want to go to a set of 36/14.00/16 tires in the future, but the tires I have for now still have about 75% tread left on them, so I will use those up first. I have included an earlier picture of it with 4” suspension lift (1” body) too, in order to see the comparison…

With new lift installed

With the 4" lift (1" body)

Under carriage

DIY4X Shackle Flip

DIY4X Shackle Flip

 

[ARAMP1]

Just plain AWESOME!!!!

 

[84CUCV]

Look real good!!

 

[xpndbl3]

looks great, how much was the shackle flip? and how tough was it to install?

 

[1-ton]

looks great, how much was the shackle flip? and how tough was it to install?

It was a little over $200 with shipping. I do not care what anybody says, or what method you use...removing rivets from the frame is a major PITA. But once the rivets are removed, the job gets much easier. I may try a rivet removing tool next time I remove any rivets. The only problem is having enough room to get the tool into where the rivet is.

 

[ARAMP1]

Did you use an air chisel to remove the rivits?

 

[1-ton]

Did you use an air chisel to remove the rivits?

Yes, I have an air chisel, but those are not strong enough to cut the head of a rivet, which is made of high strength steel, off.

First, I used an oxy/acetelyne torch with flame cutting head to cut most of the rivet head off. Second, I used an angle grinder to grind the head clean down to the spring hanger brackets. Third, I used a drill to drill a hole into the rivets that was about 1/2" deep and 3/8" in diameter. Fourth, I used a large pry bar to pry the hanger bracket from the frame. Fifth, I used the angle grinder again to grind down the remainder of the rivet close to the frame (being very carefull not to grind into the frame rail). Sixth, I used my air chisel to punch out the last of the rivet from the frame. I had to do these six steps about 12 times, so you can see how time consuming a job this is.

 

[MTMike]

Yes, I have an air chisel, but those are not strong enough to cut the head of a rivet, which is made of high strength steel, off.

First, I used an oxy/acetelyne torch with flame cutting head to cut most of the rivet head off. Second, I used an angle grinder to grind the head clean down to the spring hanger brackets. Third, I used a drill to drill a hole into the rivets that was about 1/2" deep and 3/8" in diameter. Fourth, I used a large pry bar to pry the hanger bracket from the frame. Fifth, I used the angle grinder again to grind down the remainder of the rivet close to the frame (being very carefull not to grind into the frame rail). Sixth, I used my air chisel to punch out the last of the rivet from the frame. I had to do these six steps about 12 times, so you can see how time consuming a job this is.

We used an air chisel & punch on the rivets. Never spent more than 30 seconds on a single one. Just chiseled the head off and then used the punch to knock it through to the other side.

 

[1-ton]

We used an air chisel & punch on the rivets. Never spent more than 30 seconds on a single one. Just chiseled the head off and then used the punch to knock it through to the other side.

I tried using an air chisel at first, but the rivets where made of such high strength steel, that the chisel barely made a dent in it, yet the chisel was cutting into the metal of the spring hanger bracket like it was butter. I did not want to shread the brackets or my frame, so I used the previously mentioned method to get the rivets off nice and clean without ripping in to my brackets or frame.

 

[Brocky]

I took off some hangers a little while ago in the scrapyard with a big hammer and chisel. Took me about 10 minutes. But I know it was easy on a chassis with no body but when I put my shackle flip on I will possible have to fight with it too.

 

[stoney126]

how is the ride compared to stock?

 

[1-ton]

how is the ride compared to stock?

It is definitly different, and it will take some getting used too. It is a lot softer that it was. The 4.5" long shackles I bought from DIY4X, to go along with the DIY4X shackle flip spring hangers, have a lot more pivoting action going on than the stock shackles did, thus causing a softer ride than I was used to. The Tuff Country EZ rides are awsome. Very nice ride for 6" springs. The only last detail I have to take care of is...I installed a 3" tall steering block on my Dana-60 to go along with the 2.5" dropped pitman arm I have for steering correction. Because of the 3" raised steering block design, the king pin bushing spring is not pre-loaded enough on that side. I can feel my truck getting death wobble on the left steering knuckle only (not the right) when I hit a bump going fast enough. I need to add a washer or two to the the left steering knuckle, with the 3" raised steering block, in order for the king pin bushing spring to have enough pre-load, which should fix the small amount of death wobble I am getting on that side.

 

[boz42]

Just plain AWESOME!!!!

curt's productss are sweet, those are the beefiest!

 

[1-ton]

those are the beefiest!

They are that! In fact, they are so beefy that they are kind of heavy for one person to hold it up to the frame, in order to line up the bolts and bolt them on. I got my Brother-in law told hold them in place for me while I got the bolts in, and to losely bolt them on before tightening them down.

 

[6.2puller]

curt's productss are sweet, those are the beefiest!

What rear springs are those? My dually crew cab has got to have 5 leafs more than that
Amazing how a 6" lift really doesn't look that tall on a crew cab or suburban hey.

 

[sled_dog]

man I want a crew cab.

 

[1-ton]

What rear springs are those? My dually crew cab has got to have 5 leafs more than that

They are factory original 9 -leaf pac 3500 pound (each) springs.

 

[nvrenuf]

What rear springs are those? My dually crew cab has got to have 5 leafs more than that

They are factory original 9 -leaf pac 3500 pound (each) springs.

Agreed, they are the same as my crew cab. The only difference from mine is the absence of the top overload spring (I'm pretty sure that was optional).

Edit: Chris, the truck looks really good! I agree with 36's, I think they would look nice. I'm at about 50% on my BFG's right now, when it's time to buy again I think I'm going with the 36" PJ's.

 

[1-ton]

Agreed, they are the same as my crew cab. The only difference from mine is the absence of the top overload spring (I'm pretty sure that was optional).

Thats right, there is no difference between SRW Crew Cab springs, and a DRW Crew Cab springs. The difference is in the unsprung parts. A duallies extra load capacity comes in...(1) Of course the extra tire in the rear, (2) The rims have a higher load capacity, and (3) The front hubs have bigger bearings and races for higher load capacity.

Chris, the truck looks really good! I agree with 36's, I think they would look nice. I'm at about 50% on my BFG's right now, when it's time to buy again I think I'm going with the 36" PJ's.

Thanks! Our trucks are more simular now that my lift is up there with yours. One thing I need to "keep up with the jone's"...is a set of 4.56 gears like you have. I still have the factory 4.11's. When you say PJ, does that mean Parnelli Jones? I was thinking of going with a set of Interco TSL radials. They are one of the few companies I can find that has a set of 36" tires for the 16" rims I have.

 

[nvrenuf]

Thanks! Our trucks are more simular now that my lift is up there with yours. One thing I need to "keep up with the jone's"...is a set of 4.56 gears like you have. I still have the factory 4.11's. When you say PJ, does that mean Parnelli Jones? I was thinking of going with a set of Interco TSL radials. They are one of the few companies I can find that has a set of 36" tires for the 16" rims I have.

Yeah, PJ's = Parnelli Jones. I like the Parnelli's because they have a nice fat look (I have 12" wide wheels) and are basically an all terrain (no wheeling for my CC ).

I tell ya, if I had it to do again I'd go with 5.13's. I initially had them in the truck but chickened out thinking it was too much. Now that I've got the 4.56 / 35 combo and plan to go with a slightly larger tire I think I'll want more gear for pulling.