What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

New Ball Joint replacement Question(page 2)

78 k5

78 k5

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 8, 2004
Posts
260
Reaction score
0
Location
Auburn, AL or ATL, Ga
I recently did an 8 lug conversion on my Burb and everything was grand until I went wheelin a couple of days ago. After bouncing around in some dry ruts I had a brake caliper lock up on me. I replaced the caliper and all was good. Took the truck back in town and hosed off the undercarrige. As soon as I got back on the road at around 25mph the front end starts jumping off the ground side to side.
I've taken the hub assemblies off, checked the barrings and re-torqued the lock nuts to specs. The thing is still trying to jump off the road :confused: Its not pulling to one side, just jumping up and down and when I look at the tires they look like they are about to fall off. lugs are tight. WTF is going on? Any ideas?


Sorry so long :D
 
Last edited:
Are your lug holes oval shaped after going wheeling? Jack up the truck and check for play horizontal and vertical... check to see if your steering box is broken/cracked, and there is a post here on how to do everything that I just said and more... someone will post the link to it...
 
before you take the wheels off, jack it up and see if you can move the tire/wheel up and down and side to side. Have a buddy do this while you watch what moves. Could be the ball joints are bad. If they are the brake calliper will move wit the tire/wheel. If the brake calliper doesn't move, then you might have a bearing or knuckle problem.

Hope you get it fixed and back on the trail :D
 
Mine did that after I converted to 8 lug and put the big tires on. ( did it all at one time) Dual stabilizers fixed it because I'd replaced all steering and ball joints less than a month before the swap. Glides along now..
 
dual stabilizers huh? I'll try the ball joint test....Thanks for the help guys...I'll post whatever I figure out :D
 
Its the drivers side ball-joint. Do i have to have a balljoint press or can I just use a big C-clamp? Also a very unrelated question but...with an overfilled transfercase (NP241) cause any major problems?
Thanks in advance
 
Save yourself the headache and rent the press.

I really doubt YOU overfilled your 241. If the seals are bad between the trans and t-case, ATF may flow out of the trans and into the t-case, but even then, it will leak out at the rear output seal.


Rob
 
thats what I'm talking about....will I run into any problems with the tcase being filled because of the bad seal or can I run it for a while?
 
Really would only create a problem in 4x4 cause that's the only time the chain moves. You can but the press and use it for u-joints too at harbor freight for $25. Worthwhile if you're only doing one balljoint, 'cause you'll eventually be doing the other ones.
 
Okay...I've got everything off and can't get the knuckle off the inner C. I took the nuts off the top and bottom ball joints and I've been pounding away at the top of the ball joints and she won't budge. I soaked it in PB over night and still nothing... Any pointers?
 
they are tapered like the tierod ends and draglink ends. the easiest way is to take 2 pickle forks and use one on the top and one on the bottom. usually i can only find 1, use it on the bottom one and tap the top one on the stud, it will fall right out.
 
I had to heat mine with a torch and use an air chisel with a pickle fork attachment for about 2 hours after soaking in PB for 3 hours to get mine off. BTW, you did take the snap ring off the lower ball joint, right? There's one on the bottom of the joint...
 
put a jack underneath it and put some weight back on the knuckle, should be enough to stop it from spinning :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom