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new balljoints in dana 44

8

82Scottsdale

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i am installing new balljoints in my dana44 and im trying to figure out if you have to use the little sleves to adjust camber at all or is there a way too and im also trying to figure out how to set preload on the balljoints so if anyone could help me it would be GREAT! thanks
 
Adjustment sleeves are generally not required unless your tubes are bent. they are mainly used in ford TTB front ends. They can be used if your alignment shop finds the angle to be off. I installed the standard slieve (0 degree, came with the ball joint) and the allignment was well within spec.

to adjust pre-load:
1. Leave top pre-load sleeve out.
2. Install knuckle and install castellated nut on lower ball joint and tighten to factory spec.
3. Thread in the pre-load sleeve into the top ball joint and tighten to 50Ft/Lbs.
4. Install the castellated nut on top of the pre-load sleeve and tighten it to factory spec.

Once finished grease up the joints. the knuckle should be fairly stiff but able to be moved by hand.

I was never able to 100% confirm the torque setting for pre-load in any paper manual but the many interweb references and the 40,000 miles I have on my front end after rebuild say it is a safe bet. If anyone can point to a factory manual that shows the pre-load torque I would appreciate it myself.

Hope that helps.

Cheers,

Rufus
 
82Scottsdale said:
i am installing new balljoints in my dana44 and im trying to figure out if you have to use the little sleves to adjust camber at all or is there a way too and im also trying to figure out how to set preload on the balljoints so if anyone could help me it would be GREAT! thanks
Click to expand...

The "sleeve" is for ball joint pre-load. Camber can be adjusted but that is done with camber shims behind the spindle.
 
are you talkin about the sleeves that are offset? i was thinkin about getting some of these also. ive got some alignment issues on my truck and was hoping these would help.

stock on left offset on right

Dcp_2110.jpg
 
Good God, that looks like a lot of work and anti-seize.
 
Those are indeed the adjustment sleeves I was referring to. They can be a pain in the ass to use as they alter both caster and camber at the same time. The other option is to use the shims as 4X4High indicates but those are hard to use as well. Put the whole thing together, align it and figure out the thickness shim you need. Tear it back down to install shim, and align to confirm setting. Hope you got it right the first time.

Either method is no fun but in the trucks I have owned the stock sleeve got the setting within spec.
 
The only reason camber would be off is if the axle housing is bent, in that case it would be best to get another housing. In a solid axle truck the only adjustment you really ever need to mess with is toe in.
 
4X4HIGH said:
The only reason camber would be off is if the axle housing is bent, in that case it would be best to get another housing. In a solid axle truck the only adjustment you really ever need to mess with is toe in.
Click to expand...


well i havent had my truck alligned yet (need to finish the steering) but it wears the outside of the right front excessivly (sp?) and looks like the tire is leaning (top out) to me. probably is toe, but ill get it aligned then go from there.

/Hijack off :D
 
could it be the balljoint going bad letting it kick out on the top, or the right front wheel bearing going bad?
 
on mine, i replaced BJs and bearings a couple of years ago when i swapped in the 8 lugs and hardly ever drive it (havent driven it in probably a year now). but the way this truck treats me i would not be supprised if i had to replace it all again. :doah: if i can get the wheel in the air ill check it out.

but i really need to get er movin and have it aligned to see what is really up
 
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