CK5
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New Clutch sm465 anyone have this one?

The centerforce II clutches are supposed to be good, I was going that route until mine unexpectedly let go and I put a stock unit back in. If he doesn't wheel/tow hard it might be overkill
 
if the Dual Friction is that much better. he would go for it. i think. here is the plan. 88 k5 new clutch, before anything else. get the 4" lift out. put in the 6" kit. M1008 axles from a truck im taking apart. 205 from a late 80s k30. 305 is going. putting in a built 350 or 383. have all of it. hes not sure about the motor yet.
 
383 is worth doing as well. You can get a complete rotating assembly for around 1000 bucks, that has crank, rods, pistons, rings brgs, auto flexplate and balancer.
That's about the same as grinding your old 350 crank, resizing your old rods, new brgs, pistons etc
 
My truck is used to tow a camper and trailer/ off road car, and haul stuff to the dump... During winter it's used to plow snow, and pull stuck cars and trucks from down our road where dumb people bury their vehicles in the snow :haha:

Tires are 265 75 16, and axle ratio is 3:73.

I can't say enough how great the dual friction clutch has been. Pedal pressure is exactly like the stock clutch.
 
I snapped the center hub out of my low mile dual friction. I replaced it with a Sachs and have had no problem going on over 7 years, including a lot of towing behind a big block.
 
I have seen too many engine thrust bearing failures caused by using a centerforce clutch. The reason is that the weights move exerting more gripping force on the clutch with more RPM's but that also pushes the crank forward at the same time which wipes out thrust bearings.
 
so if somebody is uping the hp and tq eather by using a newer ls1 engine, moding current engine or just what ever how can they keep this from happening?
 
how do i stop this??

Don't use a centerforce clutch. There are other clutches out there that will give more clamping pressure without having weights pushing the crank forward. You can always go to a clutch builder and ask them to build you a fully loaded clutch cover. What this means is that there is a pressure spring in every space available unlike a factory clutch which will not be loaded in every space. The down fall to a loaded clutch is that it will take more foot pressure to depress the clutch but the clamping pressure from the cover doesn't affect the crank.
 
I had purchased a centerforce clutch to use in mine before I did the swap and the cost of those things is pretty crazy. The stock diaphram clutch I put in has plenty of grip and never slips. In double low range, the brakes can't even hold the motor back from moving the truck forward.

I don't know about snow plows or drag racing, but I can't imagine the centerforce being any better than a stock clutch for most uses especially at the huge price difference.
 
hes going to make it a 1 ton. locked with 38s. just want to do it the first time.
 
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