New Corp4ff 1410 pinion yoke install ??

[Desert Rat]

Ok, got a new rear driveline made by High Angle Driveline. I opted to swap out the stock strap style 1350 rear Corp14ff pinion yoke for one of HAD's 1410 u-bolt style yokes. Here is my question, in an article on Pirate detailing the swap, the guy who does his says that his is a trail rig. As a result, he doesn't worry about the pinion pre-load. However, he qualifies that statement by saying that if you run the street, he recommends doing what the manual suggests. So, I print out the section of the manual on setting the pre-load. My queston is, will simply measuring the amount of ft. lbs. it takes to back off the pinion nut, then add 1-5 lbs. of additional torque when I swap out the yoke, be good enough to take the pre-load back to the original spec? And, if I just had the diff rebuilt with all new stuff, will I need to swap anything new in or can I just leave it as is?

I also see in the manual that they use a special tool that bolts to the yoke. What the heck is that thing? Is that simply a bar that keeps the yoke from moving while you back off the nut? And, why would you need it if the pinion won't turn anyway?

 

[surpip]

un less you have the tires locked in pretty good, tha amoutn of force it take to crush the new sleeve will move the tires, On a daily driver i would use a new crush sleeve, if not i would measure the preload before and after and try to get the two measurements as close as possible

 

[willyswanter]

Go to the dealer and buy a new crush sleeve and pinion seal. Remove pinion housing from the diff and pull the old yoke off and old crush sleeve out and put new pinion seal in. Put new yoke on and start the nut and find a way to hold the yoke (vice) and start crushing the new sleeve till you have the proper in. lb drag that the manual states. I wouldn't reuse a crush sleeve on a daily driver...

 

[CHEVY 4WD]

I had to change my yoke when I did my 3/4ton swap and you measure it with a inch pounds wrench not ft pounds (I forget spec's) But I ended up just sticking the new yoke on there and using a ratchet you can kinnda feel when there is no play (this is not the RIGHT way) but ive been running my truck down the road everyday as a DD for about 2 years now with no problems. BTW confedneck did his on a 12 bolt with a impact and drove it for probably 6months before selling it with out a problem.

 

[mouse]

Desert Rat, what route did you go? I just ordered the same setup today. Any advice?

 

[Desert Rat]

Turned out the easy way was to remove the pinion by just leaving it in the housing and just unbolting the housing from the differential. It slides right out. Then I just took it over to Bayshore Truck in Livermore and they swapped the 1350 strap style for the 1410 u-bolt style and gave it back to me. I cleaned up the surfaces, sprayed on some gasket sealer, and bolted it back in. Very painless. There is usually a metal shim that goes in between the housing and the diff. Make sure you don't beat it up when you remove the housing and you can re-use it. I just tapped a few times on the housing with a hammer, then drive a screwdriver very gently in between the housing and the diff to loosen it up.