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New Detroit, but there are issues

hickmanfab

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Joined
Mar 3, 2008
Posts
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Location
Hickman, Ca
So I installed my detroit yesterday and finally got around to drive it today. Well it seems to always be "locked" When I go around corners i will not release (without throttle of course). Basically it seems like the locker is grabbing and releasing as I turn. While some nasty grinding and pinging going on.

I know this sounds like a noob question, but work with me here. I never installed a locker before and I did it w/o help, so I more then likely screwed it up.

The only two things that I can think of is:
1) I left the shim in that is for the spider/side gears
2) My backlash is off on the ring gear. I just counted the number of rotations on the adjuster nuts, because I don't have the gauge to do measure my backlash.

If there is any one in NOR Cal. (Modesto area) that is free Wednesday or Friday and want to help me. It would be appreciated. Unless it's a simple fix.
 
What you're describing sounds normal for a Detroit Locker. By design they are primarily locked, I can't remember if the shim should have come out but worst case you just made it "tighter" or less prone to unlock.

As for the noise when turning (w/o throttle), that ratcheting in normal. In fact, (after being unlocked) it will feel pretty harsh when it locks back up. Don't be surprised if you here a loud metal ping or clunk accompanying the lock up.

In my experience, these symptoms are more noticeable with a stick than auto trans.
 
Thanks that is what I needed. Just wasn't what I remembered with my friends blazer who had an auto (mine is a manuel:D). Thanks for you help.

Jake
 
You MUST remove the spider gears, side gears, and ALL shims related to them.
 
and ALL shims related to them.


quoted for truth. pull that carrier back out and remove the shims before driving again. your method for removing/installing the carrier is fine - counting rotations of the nuts, but get those shims out!!! ;)
 
YES, the instructions say to take everything out of the diff. If you leave a shim in it, it WILL fail.
 
Thanks. Taking out the shim Helped A LOT:doah:. I guess my $25 membership just saved me 300+.

Money well spent. :thumb:

Not sure what i'm going to do when my membership comes due again early in the year since i'm unemployed now. :( Guess i'll cross that bridge when it gets here.
 
Money well spent. :thumb:

Not sure what i'm going to do when my membership comes due again early in the year since i'm unemployed now. :( Guess i'll cross that bridge when it gets here.

I thought the same thing...I am in college and working two jobs just pay for my private schooling. I don't have money to blow on a membership let alone a truck. But when I look back CK5 has saved me not only hours of time but i would venture to guess around $1000 bucks.

Namely because I saved in:
Labor cost
Cheap tricks
Vendor Discounts
How Toos

I guess the bottom line is how much you will be building? I guess not paying for the membership would be good way to not be tempted to spend money.
 
For me i have about all the knowledge required to do anything related to a vehicle. If you search any of my post or post that i've replied in i'm usually giving info not receiving it. I would hate to think that i couldn't view most pics or reply to peoples post looking for an answer to a question. Like i said, i will cross that bridge when it gets here (i think about 4 months or so).
 
Lemme know how things are going before your membership does expire Scott. If things are still tight I'll gladly hook you up with a membership.

Rene
 
Lemme know how things are going before your membership does expire Scott. If things are still tight I'll gladly hook you up with a membership.

Rene

Thanks Rene. Hopefully i find work before then otherwise i will hit you up. I know i've done my share of paying for a membership for someone when they needed it. :thumb:

Is there a way i can find out when my membership does expire?

Edit: i just found out my membership expires 3-11-10
 
You need to set the backlash closer than just counting the rotations on the nuts. Needs to have about .006 or .008" clearance. If it is too tight it will fail.
 
while i'm not necessarily recommending that the original poster not check the backlash, it should be noted that MANY folks on here, including myself, have installed a detroit by only counting the rotations and have had no issues.
 
It is good practice to check the backlash, but in the end I have a lifetime warranty on the locker and two 14ff sitting at home. So if something goes then it is easy to replace.

From what I here the 14 bolt is a forgiving axle though :D
 
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