I doubt GM has EGR programmed to work when the engine is cold. EGR should be a "warm engine, cruise only" function, so unless the solenoid or valve is bad, it's probably not an EGR problem.
CK5
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New engine with Vortec heads and still runs like crap when cold
- Thread starter BayouBlazer88
- Start date
BayouBlazer88
1/2 ton status
I just thought of something. I know in the GMPP vortec tbi intake, there are 2 places where you can put the coolant temperature sensor. One is at the top mounted vertically (just like in the stock intake) and the other is in the very front of the intake mounted horizontally. The problem with the top mount is that the hole is too big for the sensor but it seems to contact the coolant much better than the front hole which has a small recessed hole just big enough for the sensor probe to fit through and doesn't seem like it would contact the coolant very well. So I'm thinking maybe the coolant temp sensor is giving incorrect readings from its current location or may just need to be replaced. I'm down to my last straw here and with winter approaching, she takes longer and longer to warm up and seems to not reach operating temp until I've gotten to my destination, not to mention when she does warm up, the new "roller rockers" click like hell, but that's a whole other story. Also, could it be one these other sensors: MAP, TPS, IAC? I could replace them all for 75 bucks which is a lot cheaper than $200 OBD1 scanner.
You don't have access to a laptop? If you do, go make the cable, and save yourself the money of the scanner.
Autozone will apparently scan the vehicle as well, not sure if that is a data scan, or just codes though.
You can see the engine/ECM temp with a data scan, so you'd know if the problem was there or not.
Autozone will apparently scan the vehicle as well, not sure if that is a data scan, or just codes though.
You can see the engine/ECM temp with a data scan, so you'd know if the problem was there or not.
84_Chevy_K10
Banned
[ QUOTE ]
Autozone will apparently scan the vehicle as well, not sure if that is a data scan, or just codes though.
[/ QUOTE ]
Just codes. Our scanner sucks.
Autozone will apparently scan the vehicle as well, not sure if that is a data scan, or just codes though.
[/ QUOTE ]
Just codes. Our scanner sucks.
BayouBlazer88
1/2 ton status
This past Saturday night I was drving to BK about a mile away and on the way there the thing was running downright horrible and was followed by the CEL coming on. Luckily it stayed alive long enough for me to buy my dinner and make it safely home. Yesterday morning I used the code retrieval tool and got a code 42 which is something like "Electronic Spark Timing" and the manual doesn't say much on how to correct this other than the HEI module could be bad but my distributor is brand new so that's out of the question. Does anyone know what could have caused this? By the way, my timing is currently 5* advanced (with the computer advance disconnected when set) and I bought a plug and capped off the open EGR port in the intake.
KRAZIE87K5
1/2 ton status
[ QUOTE ]
Does anyone know what could have caused this?
[/ QUOTE ]
<font color="red">
Electronic Spark Timing Monitor
This test elavualtes communications between the Distributor module and the ECM/PCM. It is most frequently set when the spark by-pass signal is open for initail timing adjustment.
</font>
Did you reset the ECM after setting the timing (disconnecting the brown-wire barrel plug)??? You should disconnect the battery after setting timing to reset the code 42 in the ECM. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
-Dan
Does anyone know what could have caused this?
[/ QUOTE ]
<font color="red">
Electronic Spark Timing Monitor
This test elavualtes communications between the Distributor module and the ECM/PCM. It is most frequently set when the spark by-pass signal is open for initail timing adjustment.
</font>
Did you reset the ECM after setting the timing (disconnecting the brown-wire barrel plug)??? You should disconnect the battery after setting timing to reset the code 42 in the ECM. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
-Dan
BayouBlazer88
1/2 ton status
Yes, I disconnected the battery before I plugged the brown wire back in. And the last time I did a timing adjustment was no less than a month ago. And the CEL never came on until now. Only thing I can think of is that I have the timing too far advanced which is 5 degrees. I'll reset the timing tomorrow and make sure and disconnect the battery and see what happens.
/forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gifWhy oh why did I get a TBI? This on-board computer has caused me nothing but pain and suffering. The hell with gas mileage. I'd take a truck that gets 10mpg and is reliable over one that gets 12 and breaks every other week.
/forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gifWhy oh why did I get a TBI? This on-board computer has caused me nothing but pain and suffering. The hell with gas mileage. I'd take a truck that gets 10mpg and is reliable over one that gets 12 and breaks every other week.
KRAZIE87K5
1/2 ton status
Patience grasshopper. /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif Both of my TBI (transplants) have been running great since I got the bugs out of them, even on the vortec heads.
You might even just pull the control module out, and have Autozone test it for you. If its good, you can eliminate that option. SECOND, run a 14ga or larger ground wire, from the engine to the ECM case. Often times, bad ground can cause this problem too. I've got this same wire on my setup. FINALLY, if your problems persist, do you have a spare ECM that you can test out in place of the one you are currently running? I've heard of code 42s when the ECM goes bad too... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
Here is how to adjust your timing PROPERLY:
1. Start engine, and allow it to warm up. Make sure the SES light isn't lit and that there are no codes stored.
2. Disconnect the brown-wire barrel plug.
3. Try to get the idle down to 600-700RPM.
4. Connect timing light to cylinder #1, and adjust timing to desired base timing. A good range is from 4-10 degrees BTDC. I run my engine at 8* with great mileage and good power in my Burb with vortec heads, stock cam, stock exhaust, and an edelbrock intake.
5. Tighten distributor, and check timing one last time. If its still set where you wanted it set, shut down the engine, disconnect the timing light, and reconnect the brown-wire barrel plug.
6. Disconnect the battery for 30 seconds to clear any codes, and then reconnect.
7. Crank the engine, it should start quickly and idle properly without any SES lights.
Did you ever adjust the IAC motor for minimum idle speed? How about checking the TPS voltage? These are important too for a vehicle that has had a TBI transplanted. Let me know if you want directions for these processes as well.
Additionally, see below for more info on code 42:
<font color="red">42: Open or short on EST or BYPASS line to ignition module; ECM timing signals not getting to ignition module - A disconnected timing connector will cause this code as will a bad ignition module</font>
For info on the ignition module wiring see HERE!
I hope THIS info helps... /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif If nothing else, send me a PM and I'll drop you my cell #. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
-Dan
You might even just pull the control module out, and have Autozone test it for you. If its good, you can eliminate that option. SECOND, run a 14ga or larger ground wire, from the engine to the ECM case. Often times, bad ground can cause this problem too. I've got this same wire on my setup. FINALLY, if your problems persist, do you have a spare ECM that you can test out in place of the one you are currently running? I've heard of code 42s when the ECM goes bad too... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
Here is how to adjust your timing PROPERLY:
1. Start engine, and allow it to warm up. Make sure the SES light isn't lit and that there are no codes stored.
2. Disconnect the brown-wire barrel plug.
3. Try to get the idle down to 600-700RPM.
4. Connect timing light to cylinder #1, and adjust timing to desired base timing. A good range is from 4-10 degrees BTDC. I run my engine at 8* with great mileage and good power in my Burb with vortec heads, stock cam, stock exhaust, and an edelbrock intake.
5. Tighten distributor, and check timing one last time. If its still set where you wanted it set, shut down the engine, disconnect the timing light, and reconnect the brown-wire barrel plug.
6. Disconnect the battery for 30 seconds to clear any codes, and then reconnect.
7. Crank the engine, it should start quickly and idle properly without any SES lights.
Did you ever adjust the IAC motor for minimum idle speed? How about checking the TPS voltage? These are important too for a vehicle that has had a TBI transplanted. Let me know if you want directions for these processes as well.
Additionally, see below for more info on code 42:
<font color="red">42: Open or short on EST or BYPASS line to ignition module; ECM timing signals not getting to ignition module - A disconnected timing connector will cause this code as will a bad ignition module</font>
For info on the ignition module wiring see HERE!
I hope THIS info helps... /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif If nothing else, send me a PM and I'll drop you my cell #. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
-Dan
fortcollinsram
1/2 ton status
I think the BEST way ot check the puel pressure is to get the in-line adapter from Napa. Go to Napa and have the look in the Carb./Echlin catalog and it is part number 17-xxxx (can't remember the last 4 digts) but it is an F.I. cleaning adapter that plugs into the feed lime AT the throttle body, that has a 1/4" NPT port in the side to plug in a FP gauge I have a permanent FP gauge mounted on my hood.
As far as the FP regulator, I DON'T recommend the JET FPR. I have it on my 454 but it is kinda a waste. Sure, you can up the FP a little to fix a lean condition in the upper revs, but then the motor runs PIG rich at idle. INstead, I suggest GM#17113186. It is a vacuum referenced FP reg. for TBI vehicles. It allows has a manifold vacuum line attached to it so when the engine vacuum is HIGH at idle, the FP is lower but when you punch it and the engine vacuum nears 0, the FP shoots up. I have one of these sitting here and am going ot put it on my 454 as soon as it gets a litte warmer outside...
Ideally, FP should be about 12-12.5 at idle and about 14 or so at WOT...
Chris
As far as the FP regulator, I DON'T recommend the JET FPR. I have it on my 454 but it is kinda a waste. Sure, you can up the FP a little to fix a lean condition in the upper revs, but then the motor runs PIG rich at idle. INstead, I suggest GM#17113186. It is a vacuum referenced FP reg. for TBI vehicles. It allows has a manifold vacuum line attached to it so when the engine vacuum is HIGH at idle, the FP is lower but when you punch it and the engine vacuum nears 0, the FP shoots up. I have one of these sitting here and am going ot put it on my 454 as soon as it gets a litte warmer outside...
Ideally, FP should be about 12-12.5 at idle and about 14 or so at WOT...
Chris
BayouBlazer88
1/2 ton status
Sorry for the late reply but work has been quite busy (everyone seems to want their land surveyed before Christmas) so I haven't had time to mess with the blazer until now. Anyway, I disconnected the battery wire to reset the engine codes and restarted it. I didn't drive it around, just let it idle in park and revved it up a couple times and everything seems fine.
Another thing I have noticed lately is that after I drive about half a mile or so, my roller rockers start clicking. they are the ones with the allen wrench locks to keep them tight so I don't know why they would be clicking. Could it be that my oil pump pickup is not low enough in the pan and therefore not getting enough oil to the top end? (when I rebuilt the engine I installed a new oil pump and pickup and wasn't sure what height the pickup needed to be) Do you know the recommended distance between the oil pickup and the pan?
Also, what grade gasoline do you run with your vortec motor and do you have the EGR system connected? I've been runnning Chevron 89-octane with mine. Thanks for the help.
to fortcollinsram: when do you plan on installing the new FPR and do you know of anyone that has used this and had success with it? Also, does this part work on both big block and small block TBI's? thanks.
Another thing I have noticed lately is that after I drive about half a mile or so, my roller rockers start clicking. they are the ones with the allen wrench locks to keep them tight so I don't know why they would be clicking. Could it be that my oil pump pickup is not low enough in the pan and therefore not getting enough oil to the top end? (when I rebuilt the engine I installed a new oil pump and pickup and wasn't sure what height the pickup needed to be) Do you know the recommended distance between the oil pickup and the pan?
Also, what grade gasoline do you run with your vortec motor and do you have the EGR system connected? I've been runnning Chevron 89-octane with mine. Thanks for the help.
to fortcollinsram: when do you plan on installing the new FPR and do you know of anyone that has used this and had success with it? Also, does this part work on both big block and small block TBI's? thanks.
