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New Guy Needs Buying Advice

I was sayin,i hope you dont have 2 replace the whole harness.ive seen enough wiring problems where its just easier to gut the old wiring completely and redo it with new complete harness front to back.if you do get it,it will definitely be a learning experience.it seems to have some good parts to start out with.if you buy it we'll help you figure out the kinks im sure.
 
I think your plan sounds pretty good. I'd personally lean towards a simple electical problem being the culprit, but I've been wrong before. I also do not like when people say "I was told it . . ." because there have been plenty of times that the information was wrong and the new seller just didn't know, or decided not to check so they wouldn't 'really' be lieing. If the electrical worked, I'd say the $1200 would be a good deal. If I were you, I'd spend a some time looking for obvious electrical problems - you might easily spot something he missed.

I bought my 88 TBI Blazer for $900, but I've put a similar amount into a lift, tires, maintenance items and so on. The biggest issue I've had is RUST! I looked underneath it and it didn't look bad, felt the inside of the rockers and a around wheel wells with my hands and it felt solid. Since then, I realized that undercoating can hide a ton of rust. I knew the corners below the rear seat needed some attention, but after pulling the interior, I discover numerous rotted sections in the floor. Also, found holes in several body support areas and even in the rockers - there had been enough there to feel solid, but once you start tapping or grinding, the situation changes quickly. I feel I would have been better off spending more time and money while shopping around and getting a better starting point, but I'm not disappointed either.

If this truck is built similarly to what you had in mind, then it's not a bad deal. Cheap (Rough Country) lifts are 250, plus another 50 for extended lines, plus 300 - 400 for the tires and wheels and you're getting the truck with other stuff for a couple hundred. However, if you have a slightly different direction in mind, it may be better to look elsewhere.

The thing to keep in mind when people say it's worth x amount in parts is that it takes a lot of time and effort to sell said parts and you might not get as much as you want for them. Then there's some people wo thin just because they invested a good bit of time and money in something that it makes it worth a lot - even though it doesn't run or drive so you can verify that the work was done right. I guess I got a little off topic there . . .
 
The thing to keep in mind when people say it's worth x amount in parts is that it takes a lot of time and effort to sell said parts and you might not get as much as you want for them.

That's a good point. What it's worth in "parts" means nothing in this equation. Especially right now where no one (at least in our part of the country) is buying anything. Ben (NEK5) recently had to part out his truck and had lots of trouble getting things sold. He had a lot of quality parts into his build and the prices he was selling stuff at he may as well have been giving them away. If that guy were to part out that truck he'd be lucky to get 800 when it's all said and done. And that's after spending lots of time breaking it down, listing and selling, relisting stuff that doesn't sell, dealing with douchebags that don't show up, relisting again and so on and so on. This process could take months so he's dreaming if he's gonna part it out.
 
thanks for the advice everyone. i have to agree that the owner parting out the truck is a near impossibility, and if he wants to believe in the inflated value of his truck, he's more than welcome to. i just don't share that belief (thanks again everyone!), so until he's willing to settle for a grand, i'll just wait. i've paid off my daily driver (a '00 camry with 50k miles) and that should hold me ten years if necessary. i wish him luck in finding a sucker willing to pay $1400.
 
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