Where in Co.? May have to do a meet n greet.
CK5
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new guy with lots of questions.
- Thread starter wormgod
- Start date
wormgod
1/2 ton status
Westcliffe/Silver Cliff. just over the mountains from Pueblo and Canon City.
I didn't want to trim the fenders at first. but the more I think about it, I figure that I might as well go all out the first time.
Let me know when you are in town. I ride my motorcycle down there a lot.
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I am in that area also. In-laws in Canon city, (the town, not the facility) Outlaws not too far away.
wormgod
1/2 ton status
I hope to be up there the first couple of weeks in September. but it depends on when I can have all the parts in hand and the money to make the trip. I cant wait!!
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2000
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- 9,126
- Reaction score
- 7,090
give me a hollar, or just keep heading west for blazer bash.
Don't make it BB week.
wormgod
1/2 ton status
question on wheels....
I was planning on getting a set of these: http://www.trailworthyfab.com/209-8-Bolt-Hummer-Wheel-Special.html?mode=add&page=
how much back spacing do I need for my Blazer?
I was planning on getting a set of these: http://www.trailworthyfab.com/209-8-Bolt-Hummer-Wheel-Special.html?mode=add&page=
how much back spacing do I need for my Blazer?
I don't know anything about back spacing, but I can help with the driveshaft thing, since it wasn't answered.
With a 4" lift, you wont need new driveshafts, but you might need a T-case drop. Some do and some don't. Some don't need a drop or new driveshaft after a 6" lift, but they may not offroad any either. (no fuking arguing this in his thread!!) I would make sure your angles for the driveline are correct after the lift and try it. If there are vibes going on, and everything else checks out, then 1" square tubing, or even 1x2" tubing works good as a spacer and evenly distributes the load on the frame. You can do this without any problems until you can pony up for a CV shaft. The only drawback is your T-case will be lower and some argue the spacer can hurt the frame. I dunno about that.
Driveshaft Superstore
High Angle Driveline (HAD for short)
With a 4" lift, you wont need new driveshafts, but you might need a T-case drop. Some do and some don't. Some don't need a drop or new driveshaft after a 6" lift, but they may not offroad any either. (no fuking arguing this in his thread!!) I would make sure your angles for the driveline are correct after the lift and try it. If there are vibes going on, and everything else checks out, then 1" square tubing, or even 1x2" tubing works good as a spacer and evenly distributes the load on the frame. You can do this without any problems until you can pony up for a CV shaft. The only drawback is your T-case will be lower and some argue the spacer can hurt the frame. I dunno about that.
Driveshaft Superstore
High Angle Driveline (HAD for short)
4"-4 1/2" is stock back space. should be fine at that
shaun89
1/2 ton status
i dont think anyone has mentioned grinding out the front CV yet.
but i no i had to with my 6" lift. its hard to explain over the internet but im sure theres a write up somewhere on here about it,but ill try..basically theres little tabs on the front CV that limit the angle of the CV and how far it can move. u just have to grind them off with an angle grinder and put the front shaft back in. can somebody help me with this? i cant find any pictures or info.
but i no i had to with my 6" lift. its hard to explain over the internet but im sure theres a write up somewhere on here about it,but ill try..basically theres little tabs on the front CV that limit the angle of the CV and how far it can move. u just have to grind them off with an angle grinder and put the front shaft back in. can somebody help me with this? i cant find any pictures or info.
wormgod
1/2 ton status
woohoo. just got the email that my roll cage from S&W shipped today. time to learn how to weld.
(or let my friend do the welding)
just a few more pennies to save and I can order the lift.
(or let my friend do the welding)
just a few more pennies to save and I can order the lift.
KurtisLow11
Registered Member
Will 35s fit under a K5 with only a 2inch lift
I have 35's under my Suburban with 2" blocks in the rear. A 3 pack of front springs with a 1" zero rate in the front, and some fender trimming in the front.
Martin
wormgod
1/2 ton status
quick question. I am about to order my lift kit. anyone know what the total price comes out to for a 4" lift system for an 84 3/4t blazer from ORD? am I paying the prices listed with the components, or is there some kind of discount for ordering a complete system?
only have 800 bucks on me right now and going item by item, the complete system seems to come out around 1200 or so. wondering if I should bother calling them or wait till I have more cash next week.
only have 800 bucks on me right now and going item by item, the complete system seems to come out around 1200 or so. wondering if I should bother calling them or wait till I have more cash next week.
I dont know of a system discount
I gave them around $500 for U bolts, basic shocks, drop pitman arm, and longer brake lines. Got springs elsewhere. $800 wont get what you need unless you go block lift in the back. You could get that stuff and front springs to get you started then pickup the rears later maybe. I'd call them though. They have great customer service in my expirience.
I gave them around $500 for U bolts, basic shocks, drop pitman arm, and longer brake lines. Got springs elsewhere. $800 wont get what you need unless you go block lift in the back. You could get that stuff and front springs to get you started then pickup the rears later maybe. I'd call them though. They have great customer service in my expirience.
wormgod
1/2 ton status
hmmm. looks like it comes out to 1298 without shipping for everything I need from ORD. hmmm. gonna have to wait till next week.....or two.
I have till september anyway. but I wanna build it now!
I have till september anyway. but I wanna build it now!
wormgod
1/2 ton status
just ordered the lift system from ORD and a set of sliders from DIY4X.
now all I need is to save money for the wheels and tires and a winch and I'll be good to go. I think I got a couple leads on new axles too.
thanks for all the help so far. can't wait to start a build thread and try to piece all this crap together.
now all I need is to save money for the wheels and tires and a winch and I'll be good to go. I think I got a couple leads on new axles too.
thanks for all the help so far. can't wait to start a build thread and try to piece all this crap together.
Coldpunk
Registered Member
Axles
I've seen a bunch of axles on craigslist recently here in mo. A few up here around Columbia/Jeff City and the Lake, and at least one down near Springfield(that guy wants 900 though). Don't forget about going the American Pickers route. I found my new complete dash, pick up tailgate, sliding rear windows, and some not saggy rear springs on the cheap. Just driving around southern Missouri, stopping to ask about rusty trucks sitting in the yard on my way to go canoeing.
I've seen a bunch of axles on craigslist recently here in mo. A few up here around Columbia/Jeff City and the Lake, and at least one down near Springfield(that guy wants 900 though). Don't forget about going the American Pickers route. I found my new complete dash, pick up tailgate, sliding rear windows, and some not saggy rear springs on the cheap. Just driving around southern Missouri, stopping to ask about rusty trucks sitting in the yard on my way to go canoeing.
