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Jacked87

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Well I got an 87 K5 back in October and have been slowly messing with it here and there. So far I've gone thru and done a full tune up and replaced every gasket I know of including the rear main. So she's locked up tight and running strong. I did find a piece of a piston skirt in the oil pan when I dropped it so that kinda worries me.

I bought it with a set of 37in Iroks and just put on a new set of black steelies and 35in KM2s.

Next plans are gears and locker. It has the 700r in it but I will very rarely be taking any trips were OD will be of benefit. As of now it has 10b front and 12b rear with 308s. What gears and locker would y'all suggest? I was thinking of Randy's ring and pinions USA made series of gears 411s and not sure on the locker. I wanna keep gears and locker under $1000. And the only reason I'm not going tons is money and the fact I'm not gonna be doing any hardcore wheeling. I've gotta pretty light foot on the skinny pedal and ease around.

Up for any and all suggestions to proper gearing, locker, and future upgrades.

Thanks alot for any help and im glad to be apart!!
 
Here we go. Here it is day I bought her.
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I found a goat that day too
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Very nice k5! cant wait to see what you do with it. I suggest becoming a member...It is 25 bucks well spent for sure:waytogo: Make sure to do a build thread whenever you get time to document your build
 
Very nice k5! cant wait to see what you do with it. I suggest becoming a member...It is 25 bucks well spent for sure:waytogo: Make sure to do a build thread whenever you get time to document your build

Thanks alot man. I'll deff start a build thread as I go. I also be signing up ASAP. But I'm already a member at heart. Got some new eye candy going on tomorrow!!
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1) Never use the phrase "locked up tight". I thought the engine had seized. :haha:

2) 10b front is ok, 12 rear is not strong enough to consider gearing or locker. See if you can find a set of 3/4 axles to throw under there, something geared the same, probably around 4.10 or 4.56. Having said all this, what do you plan to do with the truck?

3) 700? Do you think you could get away with a 400? It will be a lot stronger, but you lose a very low first gear and OD.


MOST IMPORTANTLY

Drive the piss out of it first. Don't dump any more money into it until you know it's a sound truck. Dropping or lifting skirts is my favorite past time, but on a motor it's a bad thing. Unless you have the funds to upgrade axles and such, PLUS a new motor unexpectedly, then go for it. Me....... I'd rock what you got till the bugs are worked out, or any ghosts are gone. :D
 
1) Never use the phrase "locked up tight". I thought the engine had seized. :haha:

2) 10b front is ok, 12 rear is not strong enough to consider gearing or locker. See if you can find a set of 3/4 axles to throw under there, something geared the same, probably around 4.10 or 4.56. Having said all this, what do you plan to do with the truck?

3) 700? Do you think you could get away with a 400? It will be a lot stronger, but you lose a very low first gear and OD.


MOST IMPORTANTLY

Drive the piss out of it first. Don't dump any more money into it until you know it's a sound truck. Dropping or lifting skirts is my favorite past time, but on a motor it's a bad thing. Unless you have the funds to upgrade axles and such, PLUS a new motor unexpectedly, then go for it. Me....... I'd rock what you got till the bugs are worked out, or any ghosts are gone. :D

Point taken on the incorrect choice of words. She's deff not "locked up" but she ain't leaking anywhere either.

I can prob find a 3/4 or even 1 ton rear pretty cheap. The front D60 is what I ain't ready to fork out the cash for. So I'll keep my eyes and ears open for a 14bff and maybe a D44, or stick with the 10b and regear?

Now for the tranny, i do not have a clue as to what route to take. I'm not to worried about losing OD and I'd think with 410s or so I'd be ok in first. Especially over my current 308s.

Under the hood I'm thinking of ordering a remanned 350 block and throwing on some vortec heads and reusing my TBI and anything else off my current setup. Thoughts?
 
Junk the 1/2 ton and pick up some 3/4 ton running gear. Detroit locker in the rear, so make sure you pick up a 14ff rear with an open diff. And that route you will probably spend under 1000$ if you find the axles cheap enough. You could find a CUCV rear axle, with factory 4.56s and a Detroit, and regear/change the outers to 8lug and blah blah and possibly squeak in under 1000$, plus you will have a much more usable OD and a decent crawl ability.

If you switch trannys your going to have to change crossmembers, driveshafts, ect. I would run the 700 with a big cooler till it pops, then do what you will. A 400 is a great choice, but its a HP sucker and you lose low first and OD is handy dandy sometimes, wish I had it.

A reman 350 is a great idea, a 350HO or a 383 would be a good choice.

The 44 and the 10bt are the same basic thing. If you do find a 44, find one with the flat top knuckles, and when you eventually decide to do crossover and all that down the rabbit hole thing, you already have the knuckles and can save the money on that front.


This is a dangerous slope and a dangerous website to be on in this moment of venerability. You should figure out your main goal with the truck, and work towards it, all while not changing your main finishing point, thats where the chaos, 52in spring swaps, BB with NOS, and disaster strike.
 
I agree, go with 3/4 ton axles that already have low gears... Regearing gets costly and as useful a bull with tits in that 12b...

Get a cheapo lunch box locker, they work and you can resell them later...

Leave the tranny alone...

Get out there and have fun driving it for awhile...
 
Whatever you decide to do with the axles, go to at least 4.56:1 ratio. I have the same engine/trans and tire size combo. It hunts for O/D at 65mph with the 4.56:1. Wish I had gone 4.88:1.
 
Whatever you decide to do with the axles, go to at least 4.56:1 ratio. I have the same engine/trans and tire size combo. It hunts for O/D at 65mph with the 4.56:1. Wish I had gone 4.88:1.

Thanks man. What axles are you running?
 
Stock 10 bolt open in the front. Currie Extreme duty housing, 9+ nodular center section, 2003 Chevy AWD brakes in the rear with a Detroit.
 
I'm gonna take most people's advice and just drive it as is for a little while and see how it does. It may do all I want it to do right now.

I will deff be looking for a 14bff though and get matching gears up front. I guess I'll just run 8 lugs out back and 6 up front.
 
I'm gonna take most people's advice and just drive it as is for a little while and see how it does. It may do all I want it to do right now.

I will deff be looking for a 14bff though and get matching gears up front. I guess I'll just run 8 lugs out back and 6 up front.


We just went over this in another thread... Buy a matching pair of 3/4 tons when you're ready... That way gears match, lugs match and basically bolt in... Gonna be the cheapest in the long run...


EDIT... Btw, there's a lot about these trucks that you'll need to learn... This site and others have a ton of info, just spend some time reading up on everything... One of the biggest mistakes newbies make is running out and buying parts to upgrade their rig... Most of us have spent money on stuff we really didn't need and wished we spent it on other stuff down the road... You'll notice after driving it around that you'll meet other guys with the same rig, you'll became part of the club... What you want out of your truck will come to you in time...
 
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