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New member, fuel bleed issue 6.2 diesel

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hotpile82

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Hey everyone, I've been lurking, reading posts but of course my issue is just a touch different. Anyways

1982 chev suburban 4x4 6.2 v8 diesel.

Whenever I tinker with it, I get into a world of pain.

So I, like an idiot, tried to do something about my valve covers leaking. But, on passenger side I couldn't break loose the aft most injector nuts (one closest to firewall and the one next to it) and driver side when I tried to break loose the one closest to firewall, injector started turning with it. So I stopped that nonsense right there and then.
I'm in canada, cold, snow, salted roads. I wasn't about to get into that.

I have an electric lift pump with spin on round style filter (water seperator) on my firewall. I bled that. It geysered out of there.
Continued bleeding. I cracked 5 injectors total. 2 on passenger and the 3 on driver side. Yesterday, it smoked and fired up (with the help of a battery charger with normal charge, boost charge and engine start feature).
It burbbled n smoked until i got a smooth idle. Everything sounded OK, looked ok. It was getting dark out, I considered it a victory and shut it down after 8ish mins running. (Block heater plugged in overnight)

This morning, nothing not even the rump rump of it trying to start. Even with a block heater I swear to God it hates starting.
But it gave me no pedal, like I had to bleed fuel all over again. So I tried cracking 5 injectors again and crank, my batteries didn't charge enough I guess, so it's hooked up now, gonna go try again.

But now, ultimate question, do I have a leak? Why must I go through this again?
While it was getting dark last night when I got it to go, I didn't see any leaks.
No spot on the ground this morning. No general wetness around the injectorsnthat might suggest a bad seal.

I'm suspecting that injector that turned with the nut when I tried to loosen. But still no wetness anywhere.

I'm hoping I jist didn't let it run long enough yesterday to clear out all the bubbles. I don't want tongo somewhere and have to bring an extension cord and wrenches and my battery charger to bleed the truck everytime...

And if it is the injector, I'll need to replace the fuel lines.
Can those be bought pre bent for an '82? I bent brake lines and honestly I might just switch to electric if I have to bend fuel lines. (Kidding), bit seriously I'd love to avoid that...

I'm just wonderingwhat it could be if I can't see the culprit of wetness or dripping or leaking. I'll fire it up when my batteries are close tonfull today and use the daylight to really peep around.

Anyways, thank you for the welcome to the forum cheers to all to who read n comment or have tips
 
Just skimmed it, but what about getting it running on starting fluid or some other fuel source? If you have a mechanical fuel pump anywhere in the system, it might prime the system for you. Im not a diesel mechanic, but as long as you supply what ever the correct ans safe fuel is, I don't see the harm in trying. I think some things like starting fluid can be bad for diesels, so I would use caution and research it a little.
 
78 GMC Jimmy said:
Just skimmed it, but what about getting it running on starting fluid or some other fuel source? If you have a mechanical fuel pump anywhere in the system, it might prime the system for you. Im not a diesel mechanic, but as long as you supply what ever the correct ans safe fuel is, I don't see the harm in trying. I think some things like starting fluid can be bad for diesels, so I would use caution and research it a little.
Click to expand...
I've never liked using alternate fuel sources, it's an option and I've considered it. Hell, I didn't know WD40 was an option. Learned something new there. Bit woth a battery charger, block heater, 8 goodish? Glow plugs, it has all the help it needs.

I mentioned in my post I have an electric lift pump, but the injection pump is obviously mechanical, and on that subject!
I hear some guy will but an old oil change into a full tank of fuel. The oil burns, and lubes up the injection pump, injectors and has other cleaning properties and ultra low sulfur diesel from the pumps, is lacking.

Anyone ever try this have any luck, does it run better?
 
You need 8 excellent glow plugs that are on for at least 15 seconds. Plus a starter motor with charged enough batteries to spin the engine at 150-180 rpm to start in standard temperature (59°F/15°C). You might not have a fuel issue at all. It could just be glow plugs, the glow plug controller and battery health causing your issues.

Tread very lightly on the alternative fuel subject. Yes, a diesel will run on all kinds of combinations of chemicals. However, the 6.2 injection pump, the Standyne DB2, is not designed for fuels much thicker, heavier or drier than regular diesel. The US sent thousands of 6.2 powered vehicles to Desert Storm/Desert Shield back in 1991. A good number of them broke and a study was done to figure out why. The shaft that drives the IP is not very big in size. When the rotating parts get slowed down by thick or dry fuels such as motor oil and a high percentage of gasoline. The shaft will snap leaving the engine dead. Jet fuel was found to be a problem as well. It is very dry compared to diesel fuel. I can’t link the study, but over on steelsoldiers.com it is posted.

Yes, the low sulphur modern diesel can be an issue. A pint or quart of 2 stroke oil is about all you should add per 30 gallons to lube up the fuel. Plus, there are dozens of diesel fuel additives that do the same thing out there.
 
Barrman said:
You need 8 excellent glow plugs that are on for at least 15 seconds. Plus a starter motor with charged enough batteries to spin the engine at 150-180 rpm to start in standard temperature (59°F/15°C). You might not have a fuel issue at all. It could just be glow plugs, the glow plug controller and battery health causing your issues.

Tread very lightly on the alternative fuel subject. Yes, a diesel will run on all kinds of combinations of chemicals. However, the 6.2 injection pump, the Standyne DB2, is not designed for fuels much thicker, heavier or drier than regular diesel. The US sent thousands of 6.2 powered vehicles to Desert Storm/Desert Shield back in 1991. A good number of them broke and a study was done to figure out why. The shaft that drives the IP is not very big in size. When the rotating parts get slowed down by thick or dry fuels such as motor oil and a high percentage of gasoline. The shaft will snap leaving the engine dead. Jet fuel was found to be a problem as well. It is very dry compared to diesel fuel. I can’t link the study, but over on steelsoldiers.com it is posted.

Yes, the low sulphur modern diesel can be an issue. A pint or quart of 2 stroke oil is about all you should add per 30 gallons to lube up the fuel. Plus, there are dozens of diesel fuel additives that do the same thing out there.
Click to expand...
Te glow plugs could use a refresh. I replaced em when I got truck, almost 5 years ago now, They cycle a good 10 12 seconds.
The controller is new, well i replaced it 2 years ago. And starter last winter, should've seen the state of the old one, dunno how it kept up so long lol.
I work month on month off. So all the run time I'm mentioning is sorta cut in half coz it sits while I'm gone. The better half starts it up occasionally. Batteries are... newish as well about a year on them although battery terminal are corroded could use a hit of wire brush.

I appreciate your input on alternate fuels. It's interesting, I didn't know about the shaft being small on those pumps. And yeah it makes sense, any sort of resistance from the pump down will break the weak link, in this case the shaft.
I wouldn't have the stones to try it now, even a bit of oil, what with it being cold out making it more viscous. I was wondering coz guy I know runs his 12valve off anything. Brake fluid furnace oil, fryer oil, I think he still does a 50 50 mix with diesel n closer to 70 30 in the winter. But he says he burns through a bit more filters but ends up coming up positive for $$$. Now, a 12v is tougher than a 6.2, no offense to 6.2s. But he swears by it.."ol mechanical diesel love it"
 
A P pump 12 valve can handle the thicker viscosity. The early 12 valve engines had the VE pump. They break like the DB2.

You mentioned a new glow plug controller. The gray one? It was designed for the old hotter glowing but not self regulating 9G and 11G glow plugs. 60G plugs are the self regulating ones but they need a longer glow time. I have several videos about this on my channel linked in my signature if you want to listen instead of just read what I just wrote.
 
Yes the 12valve is up there as one of the kings of diesels in light trucks.

Yeah grun metal gray, threaded a flange that bolts into the block on driver side by firewall.
The glow plugs do cycle a long time. I've heard of n read I dunno how many manual glow plug controller posts. I dunno if I want to bother.
I said 12v is the King of diesels, know what? So is the 6.2, mine at least. Yeah they're slow and gutless and naturally aspirated n have their issues but, i mean I'm posting here looking for help coz of something that went wrong coz of something I did. Know what it was doing before? Running just fine. So I'm gonna touch some wood for luck after saying that. Lol.

I will watch those videos because I always thought newer plugs meant better for starting but i did not know that about the controller,

Thank you!
 
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