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New Member - Just picked up 1974 Blazer

swartlkk

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I think this is the appropriate place to introduce myself.

I just picked up a 1974 Blazer 4wd for $400 (+$250 in fuel and food). All in all it is a fairly solid truck. Rust in the normal areas (foot wells / rockers). It currently has a 3" BL with 33x10.5 tires.

A few pictures - On the trailer getting fuel:


Back home:




Last night I was able to get everything stripped out of the back of the truck.


VIN states that it was originally a 2-barrel 350 v8 (LF5) and the SPI label agrees, but now has a 4-barrel motor in it. Checking the block numbers, it is a 1975 350 out of a Camaro or Nova (LM1) that could either be a 2 bolt or 4 bolt main block. Being from a Camaro or Nova, I doubt it is a 4 bolt.

I have owned a few s-series trucks in the past and know a lot about them. This is my first full size Blazer. My dad used to have two old Chevy farm trucks (73 1/2 Ton 4wd & 74 3/4 Ton 4wd) that I maintained, so I am familiar with the mechanics and drivetrains. I still have the 4-bolt main 350 and the transfer case out of the 74 sitting under the barn.

I also have a 1970 Chevelle that I have owned for 14+ years now and which I just started the process of restoring. I bought the Blazer as an intermediary project to get my metal working skills and confidence up. I find myself wanting to do everything perfect and undetectable on the Chevelle, but end up cutting out my work, more often than not, because I am not happy with the results. Right now I am just hand forming the patch panels so it hasn't had that much of an impact on the pocket book, but I do not want to mess up larger more expensive pieces! With the Blazer, my goal is a good looking, functional truck and I really do not care to get the attention to detail into it that I am looking for in my Chevelle. As you can see from the pictures, I have some areas that need attention and these areas should prove to be good experience builders.

I have my own personal website that anyone can go see. Check my profile or signature for a link.

Anyway, I just wanted to introduce myself. I have already learned a lot from many different members here and hope to get to know everyone! Thanks!!
 
Someone here posted up the CL ad for that '74 a week or so ago. Glad to see it's gone to a decent home...

Welcome to CK5, you'll find a ton of info and pic's here on rust repair.

Weird how someone has added an access hole at the rear. You don't normally see that on anything but the later TBI trucks. Makes swapping a fuel pump a ton easier.

Rockers are bad, front floors are not great either. Being a full convertable you'll want to stabilize the firewall before welding in the rocker replacements. If you don't the door openings won't be correct and getting the doors to close decently again will be very difficult.

Rene
 
Thanks for the welcome!

Thought Tom would have put it up here as well.

On the cutout in the back, yeah, I thought that was weird as well. Especially considering that the fuel hoses look original back there. Someone must have had a problem with the sending unit at one point or another and decided it better to cut a hole than drop the tank. I will likely leave the hole, but recess the panel and use some flush mount hardware to finish it off. Heck, the hole is already there, I might as well keep it!

As far as the rot goes, yeah, you have about covered it. I found a thread where another member was documenting the rust repair on his K5 and he went through everything that I am preparing to do now. I will likely source new (or good used) doors as I have seen success at convert the full window surround doors to the convertible ones. What is the general consensus on that?

As I am working on replacing the complete floor pan in my Chevelle, I am familiar with proper bracing, but thanks for the reminder! It doesn't look like the rockers are offering much support at the moment and I will likely be putting braces in shortly, especially on the passenger side. Once all of the interior is out of the way, the welding will begin. The rocker boxes look like the welds are broke at the cross member in front of the rear wheels. All stuff that I will get into in more detail once I actually get to cutting things apart!
 
Yeah, that is dad's new truck and older trailer (with new 8k axles) that he uses for towing around his JD 510 backhoe. Made the trip a dream. Truck only has 3k miles on it so far so it hasn't really been broken in.
 
Cutting full doors down for the full convertable isn't hard. They're not that different. There is a steel support piece above the door handle inside the door that provides backing for the door cap which is pretty important. The upper cap doesn't need any special backing...

Just copy the cut lines on the old door.

This is a good thread to check out for body bracing and good floor repair, rust repair and sheet metal work. Greg isn't a pro, but he is very thorough and makes it look exceptionally good through each part of the process.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224462

Lot's of good reading there...

Rene
 
Rene, thank you for the link! I started reading through some of that thread last night and I will probably be repeating much of it (sadly none of the customized drivetrain at this point).
 
Love the red and white paint, its one of my favorites

161bellmt68.jpg


Here are some rocker ideas
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163290&highlight=rocker

kidjethro did some real sharp ones in here

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83625&highlight=rocker
 
Again, thanks for the great links! I am not sure I will be doing anything that may require sliders like that, but I will definitely keep links to those threads for future reference!
 
Sorry, none lately. I've been working a lot of mandatory overtime lately. Still trying to get some of the other projects moved out of the garage to make room for this. Before the snow gets here, it will be in and under the torch.
 
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