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New Oil Filter and Header

k5freak44

k5freak44

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I replaced my oil filter and it looked like the same size as my old one but now my header is resting up against it. I know for sure this cannot be good.

What should i do?

Anyone know of any smaller filters?
 
ouch! I heard of this before and the guy had a Camero. He went to a Parts for Trucks and match up some filter off some kind of motorized equipment and put on his. Some other fellas run the same system as an S10 so the filter can go anywhere. I have a Diesel topaz and can't get a filter for it at Dealership. I have to order Baldwin filters or Wix. Hope this helps. :)
 
In AC brand filters, a PF35 isthe standard 1qt filter - I believe a PF25 is a shorter version of the same.


DISCLAIMER: it's been a while since I sold parts so PLEASE double check me. :thumb:
 
I would relocate the filter, even with a possibly shorter canister that filter is WAY too close to the hedder pipes and absorbing a lot of unwanted heat into the oil supply.
Just my $.02
 
what kind of damage can this do if i run it like this?

i have an oil cooler if that helps
 
Mad-Dog said:
I would relocate the filter, even with a possibly shorter canister that filter is WAY too close to the hedder pipes and absorbing a lot of unwanted heat into the oil supply.
Just my $.02
Click to expand...

how hard would it be to relocate the filter?
 
A filter relocation kit is real easy to install, and fairly inexpensive. Check out Summit or Jegs.
In the meantime, pick up a shorter filter. PF25 is the ACDelco number for an older Camaro with a 350. It is shorter than the PF35 and works like a charm, its what I use.
 
k5freak44 said:
I replaced my oil filter and it looked like the same size as my old one but now my header is resting up against it. I know for sure this cannot be good.

What should i do?

Anyone know of any smaller filters?
Click to expand...
Oil Filter Relocation Kit Would be a good time too add a oil cooler while you're at it. :wink1:
 
If you have the oil cooler, removing it will give you .5-1" I'm guessing (based on adapter thickness) so thats an option as well.

Personally, I'd keep everything as it is, and get a smaller filter.
 
dyeager535 said:
If you have the oil cooler, removing it will give you .5-1" I'm guessing (based on adapter thickness) so thats an option as well.

Personally, I'd keep everything as it is, and get a smaller filter.
Click to expand...
I'd be leary about a smaller filter, I've always though more filtering is better.
 
i just got back from orileys and i got a shorter filter. ill have decent clearance now, and im just guna run it as is. i talked to some guy and he said a smaller filter will filter just aswell, i just will have to replace it more often. the new one is about 3/4" shorter then the old one


thanks guys
 
GM also made an even larger filter, are most of us ignorant for not running it?

There are plenty of people running Fram filters that if the "horrid" capabilities of the Fram filter really made that much of a difference, those engines would be dying after three oil changes.

Of course that doesn't mean I'm going to use Fram. But if it comes down to frying my oil filter on a header tube, completely redesigning an oil cooling/filtering setup, or running a filter that is a couple inches shorter, it would be a quick decision.

Maybe it's just me, but I wouldn't lose any sleep over a shorter filter. :confused:
 
dyeager535 said:
GM also made an even larger filter, are most of us ignorant for not running it?

There are plenty of people running Fram filters that if the "horrid" capabilities of the Fram filter really made that much of a difference, those engines would be dying after three oil changes.

Of course that doesn't mean I'm going to use Fram. But if it comes down to frying my oil filter on a header tube, completely redesigning an oil cooling/filtering setup, or running a filter that is a couple inches shorter, it would be a quick decision.

Maybe it's just me, but I wouldn't lose any sleep over a shorter filter. :confused:
Click to expand...
I've always prefered the relocation with duel filters with a oil cooler. I just prefer extra filtering.
 
Just as an FYI for anyone that cares, and a for-instance, on a 305 in a car and truck, 1986, trucks got a PH13, cars got a PH30. You know filter bosses are no different, yet for *clearance issues* GM used a smaller filter on the car. (Delco numbers PF35-truck, PF25-car)

Still a vehicle they have to warranty.

No disagreement on more filtering capacity is better, but the fact is, you can double or triple the cost of the filter if you've got enough space to run them, yet the engines easily last 150K on the "small" filters.
 
hot filters..

I'd run a smaller "stock" filter rather than a relocation kit--my friend used a filter relocation kit in his 62 Nova when he found his headers would not clear the stock filter..he's had 2 completely rebuilt motors develop bearing knocks in less than 2000 miles--he did not abuse the engines badly either,though he did do a few burnouts and he does not drive like a grandmother...we noticed upon a cold start-up the bottom end would knock for several seconds until the oil pressure built up in the bearings...

We blamed the distance the oil must travel thru all the hoses and external filter for the "delay" in oil reaching the bearings...the first motor started rapping badly,when we pulled it and tore it down,we found the #1 main bearing and rod bearing had been worn to the copper layer...and 2 of the cam lobes were GONE --rounded right over!--the second motor lasted a bit longer,he decided to ditch the external filter for a stock early 60's Nova V-8 one thats a bit smaller than even the PH25 style one is...( a tip for those who need a "shorty" filter for a chevy V8 that have tight clearance due to headers.)..

That motor suffered from a bearing noise too,but this time I think it was due to just throwing new bearings on a used crank without polishing or turning it(something I warned him not to do--but nobody listens to me! :rolleyes: :whistle: )--he also used the remote filter setup for the first 1000 miles or so on the second motor,and I doubt he flushed out the lines,and they were likely full of metallic particles from his cam lobes-- :doah:

He had to do some searching to find the filter listed for the early Nova V8's--only Wix and Baldwin still makes them(as far as we could determine)and the Baldwin # was larger in length and slighty bigger in diameter than the Wix--probably because they "superceeded" the original # to another "close enough" one that would work on the early Novas..only Wix had the OEM size specs we needed for it to clear and work..the gasket on the base is a bit smaller than the "usual" chevy oil filter,but the pad on the block is plenty wide enough for it to seal with no problem...

I like the idea of havng the oil filter away from heat,and easy to get to ,to change,etc..but I think those relocation kits are responsible for some of the problems related to oil starvation and bottom end woes..I think they should have an "anti-drainback" valve in them so the oil filter and lines wont drain into the sump overnight and cause a prolonged dry start each morning...maybe I'm paranoid,but thats what I think... :crazy:
 
diesel4me said:
I'd run a smaller "stock" filter rather than a relocation kit--my friend used a filter relocation kit in his 62 Nova when he found his headers would not clear the stock filter..he's had 2 completely rebuilt motors develop bearing knocks in less than 2000 miles--he did not abuse the engines badly either,though he did do a few burnouts and he does not drive like a grandmother...we noticed upon a cold start-up the bottom end would knock for several seconds until the oil pressure built up in the bearings...

We blamed the distance the oil must travel thru all the hoses and external filter for the "delay" in oil reaching the bearings...the first motor started rapping badly,when we pulled it and tore it down,we found the #1 main bearing and rod bearing had been worn to the copper layer...and 2 of the cam lobes were GONE --rounded right over!--the second motor lasted a bit longer,he decided to ditch the external filter for a stock early 60's Nova V-8 one thats a bit smaller than even the PH25 style one is...( a tip for those who need a "shorty" filter for a chevy V8 that have tight clearance due to headers.)..

That motor suffered from a bearing noise too,but this time I think it was due to just throwing new bearings on a used crank without polishing or turning it(something I warned him not to do--but nobody listens to me! :rolleyes: :whistle: )--he also used the remote filter setup for the first 1000 miles or so on the second motor,and I doubt he flushed out the lines,and they were likely full of metallic particles from his cam lobes-- :doah:

He had to do some searching to find the filter listed for the early Nova V8's--only Wix and Baldwin still makes them(as far as we could determine)and the Baldwin # was larger in length and slighty bigger in diameter than the Wix--probably because they "superceeded" the original # to another "close enough" one that would work on the early Novas..only Wix had the OEM size specs we needed for it to clear and work..the gasket on the base is a bit smaller than the "usual" chevy oil filter,but the pad on the block is plenty wide enough for it to seal with no problem...

I like the idea of havng the oil filter away from heat,and easy to get to ,to change,etc..but I think those relocation kits are responsible for some of the problems related to oil starvation and bottom end woes..I think they should have an "anti-drainback" valve in them so the oil filter and lines wont drain into the sump overnight and cause a prolonged dry start each morning...maybe I'm paranoid,but thats what I think... :crazy:
Click to expand...
Just a thought, mount filter relocation kits high. I've never had a issue with the filter relocation kits.
 
Pretty sure the stock oil cooler setup DOES have an anti-drainback, at least in the cooler itself. All the ones I've had you could shake and tell there was SOMETHING moving inside, and it would make sense.

Also, for folks that have access to computer parts, bad hard drives are a great source for magnets that you can stick on your oil filter that will NOT come off during driving. I've got one both on my car and my truck, sort of as a test to see what they pick up. So far on both, I've not seen *any* material.

If anyone hasn't dealt with these and doubts their effectiveness, the hard drive magnets are strong enough to hold together through the thickness of your fingers.
 
Oil accumulators are made just for situations like that to prevent dry starts by pressurising the oil system just prior to firing the engine.
 
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