New oil pan

[Mastiff]

My current oil pan is banged up and seeping from various places. I was thinking of getting a nice one like the one below. Any opinions? Are there any gotchas in terms of fitment based on the engine or anything? I've never swapped the pan on a 350 on-vehicle, I assume I can just unbolt/rebolt, or is there more to it?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COU5WM

 

[livid4dirt]

That will work, but you can get a stock replacement pan and a one piece pan gasket for about $80.00 through Jegs. Milodon does make good products though. It's not to bad of a job to remove and replace, you should have no problem. Which ever one you go with, just make sure which side has the dipstick provision for your application.

 

[sweetk30]

x2 on a oem style pan and felpro 1-piece gasket for the win .

always read the print on aftermarket for different oil pickup style/length requirements.

 

[Mastiff]

This truck's a project, and part of the fun is attaching nice parts. I have been burned in the past though, and wished I had just used standard stuff. Partly I was thinking I'd like it to have a nice stiff mounting surface to get a good seal.

How does install go with respect to the timing cover? Can that all stay in place while the pan goes out and in?

I'm thinking about this kind of gasket. Not 100% if this is the right one, since some people with older SBC said it didn't fit for them. My truck doesn't have the original 1983 engine.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-os34510t/overview/make/chevrolet

 

[livid4dirt]

Timing cover can stay in place, just remove the rubber gasket/ seal that is on the bottom radius and clean bottom of cover as needed for new gasket.
As for the gasket, get one that matches your dipstick provision (left side or right side). Although, I think I used one like you pictured and had no problems.

 

[Mastiff]

What's the story on the thick vs. thin front seal? The gasket I linked specifies thick.

 

[livid4dirt]

I think it is do to the bottom radius of the timing cover. Some used a thin gasket/seal and some used a thicker one. Since you said this was a project, you could remove the one that is in there now to check the thickness before you order a new one.
Not getting the correct one will result in a leak you will never get to seal up. IIRC, when you get a new timing cover gasket/seal set they come with both. Just remove your old one and check since you don't need the complete set for your timing cover.
I hope this explains things for you. Good Luck !

 

[Mastiff]

Yeah, it would be no big deal to have it apart for a week while the parts come. Surfing around, one forum said the gasket requirement is a function of the oil pan, but this source says it's a function of the timing cover. Seems legit: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/small-block-chevy-oil-pan-gaskets/28651

So if I can get the oil timing cover bottom gasket off in one piece, I should be able to tell, or maybe just by eyeballing the groove in the timing cover (1/4 vs 3/8). My guess is that it'll want thick based on what I've read, but I don't know the year of this block, so stuff could be weird.

 

[mrk5]

Might do some searching for info, beacuse I think there might be something stamped on the block to give you a date. Don't know if you can see them with the motor in the vehicle tho.

 

[diesel4me]

The engine code will tell what year the engine is,at least "roughly"--sometimes the codes covered a few years span...all you need to know basically is if its a pre 1896 engine with a two piece rear main seal or newer,with the one seal,and which side the dipstick goes on..

(Newer engines after 1987 usually used the one piece rubber oil pan gasket with the "smile" gaskets made into it)...older ones used either the thick or thin smile rubber gasket,and all I ever did was match up the old one to the new one--both were included in Fel-Pro timing cover gasket sets..

There is a date code cast into the block but its almost dead center at the rear on the area next to the bell housing,next to the casting number that determines the cubic inch size--doubt you would be able to get a good enough look at it to "read" it with the engine in the truck--maybe if you had a removeable tunnel "hump" and took it off you could see it..but it isn't really a must to know exactly when it was made..

I liked to replace the oil pump drive collar with a steel version when I had the oil pan off,those nylon ones can fail after high miles and kill a engine..also the oil pump itself,it it looks tired,or had any timing gear nylon teeth stuck in the pickup screen..
The last oil pump I bought for a small block,a stock replacement Melling one, was like 13 bucks new at Autozone,and another 5 bucks for the drive collar..pickup screen was another 10 bucks..I did that plus a 3 piece timing chain & gear set for 20 bucks--the 70 or so bucks was worth it to know all the potential problem parts were replaced..

 

[dyeager535]

I purchased one of the summit 5 quart pans. For the price, I don't think you could go wrong. Haven't been able to run the engine with it on yet, but did not see any reason that it should leak.

Note that at least for the later one piece motors, the pan rails are not reinforced anywhere (earlier were at the four corners), instead there is a separate piece that goes between the pan and the pan bolts to better spread the load on the gasket. I'm not aware of these being used on earlier engines.