I'm planning to do my own paint job (my truck's paint is worn and rusted) Should I first prime my truck with rust bullet or a cheaper product like rustoleum? I'm planning to use durabak as a finish coat. does any of this make any sense?
CK5
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New paint
- Thread starter hammermachine
- Start date
Skigirl
1/2 ton status
You're going to have to clean the truck with xylene really well before applying Durabak, and Durabak would provide a barrier against air and moisture on the metal it covers, at least as good a barrier as paint.
If it were me I'd remove as much rust as possible by sanding, grinding, or using a rust converter, then clean with xylene and Durabak it right away. If there is an inevitable delay between removing rust and applying Durabak, then get something onto the metal after the rust is removed, whatever is moisture proof (some primers aren't, so rust can form underneath it).
Or you can go the POR 15 route, then use their Top Coat Primer over the POR 15 before you prep for Durabak. You don't need to use their primer over POR 15, but you would need to sand it really well instead. Easier just to use their primer. That's what I did with the light rust on mine. And I used a grinder to remove or cut out the heavy duty rust before I Durabak'd mine.
If it were me I'd remove as much rust as possible by sanding, grinding, or using a rust converter, then clean with xylene and Durabak it right away. If there is an inevitable delay between removing rust and applying Durabak, then get something onto the metal after the rust is removed, whatever is moisture proof (some primers aren't, so rust can form underneath it).
Or you can go the POR 15 route, then use their Top Coat Primer over the POR 15 before you prep for Durabak. You don't need to use their primer over POR 15, but you would need to sand it really well instead. Easier just to use their primer. That's what I did with the light rust on mine. And I used a grinder to remove or cut out the heavy duty rust before I Durabak'd mine.
Durabak sticks to bare metal pretty good. You just need to make sure and get rid of all the rust first. I used an abrasive wheel, the kind that 3m makes, for my drill and it did the job nicely. x2 on the xylene. Don't take short cuts with the prep, or it will all peel off later.
85-m1028
1/2 ton status
go to your local auto body paint supply shop and ask for a product called ZERO RUST, it comes in quarts or spray cans and has a rust converter built in. This is amazzzzzing stuff!!!!!!! just clean the truck and and apply "very important" THREE FULL COATS I always use a flat black "the military uses this as a base coat for their trucks" and presto NO MORE RUST PROBLEM!!!! I would get the quarts and use a spray gun, much better aplication this way!!
pvfjr
1/2 ton status
Don't forget to stop in here first, it may intrigue you.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168236
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168236
pvfjr said:
What a fun thread that was...
I'll stay out of this one and let the backyard bodymen handle it...
pvfjr
1/2 ton status
That's why I figured I drag it up from the dead.ryoken said:What a fun thread that was...
