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New radiator in couple of questions

stoney126

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Hey all I got the radiator in and finally got all my hoses. Now To fill it up, Any preference as to coolant? Also I dont want any air stuck in there, so what would be the best procedure to make sure this doesn't happen? I saw raise the front of the vehicle and drill 1/8 holes in the T-stat. Do I fill up the radiator first then start it and fill as needed? Do you run the truck with the drilled out t-stat? Also Out here in Cal should I run a 180* t-stat? Sorry for all the questions but I want to do it right:D
 
Hey all I got the radiator in and finally got all my hoses. Now To fill it up, Any preference as to coolant? Also I dont want any air stuck in there, so what would be the best procedure to make sure this doesn't happen? I saw raise the front of the vehicle and drill 1/8 holes in the T-stat. Do I fill up the radiator first then start it and fill as needed? Do you run the truck with the drilled out t-stat? Also Out here in Cal should I run a 180* t-stat? Sorry for all the questions but I want to do it right:D

No matter where you are you want a T stat that will let the engine warm up 180 is too cold for efficient running I would run 193-197 what ever is available in that range.
As for coolant I use Dexcool the orange stuff, it's best for your radiator, leaves no residue and lasts 5 years.
I have it in every vehicle I own now even my Big rig.
As for procedure, Do you have a cover on the radiator or a recovery tank?
fill er up there and start the engine and once the Tstat opens up it will take some more and you're done.
 
Im sure there is some old coolant(green) still in the system so will the dexacool cause problems? I wanted to go that route but wasnt sure if there would be any issues.

I do have a recovery tank. Should I fill the radiator at all or just fill it up from the recovery tank? should i raise the front or turn on the heater?

thanks iceman I appreciate the info
 
Run a 195 stat. 180 is a bit on the cool side for an IDI motor IMO. What year motor is it? Different years use different stats, and some have been discontinued by GM. They are still available aftermarket, but some Stant units are Chinese in origin while the CST's are known to be garbage.

I use good ol' low silicate green antifreeze like Zerex and add the proper amount of Cummins/Fleetguard DCA4 or NAPAKool supplemental coolant additive to protect against possible cavitation issues (although I have never heard of any problems with cavitation on the GM diesels, I prefer to be cautious :D). I also used Redline Diesel Water Wetter - I can't say if it will help, but I figure here in the Valley of the Sun it can't hurt.

If you want to use an extended life antifreeze I would suggest Zerex Extended Life Antifreeze. I have seen way too many systems with Dexcool that were rotted out. I know it is supposed to be improved now, but I still have my doubts. Regular green stuff protects aluminum just fine. You just have to change it every couple of years...
 
Run a 195 stat. 180 is a bit on the cool side for an IDI motor IMO. What year motor is it? Different years use different stats, and some have been discontinued by GM. They are still available aftermarket, but some Stant units are Chinese in origin while the CST's are known to be garbage.

I use good ol' low silicate green antifreeze like Zerex and add the proper amount of Cummins/Fleetguard DCA4 or NAPAKool supplemental coolant additive to protect against possible cavitation issues (although I have never heard of any problems with cavitation on the GM diesels, I prefer to be cautious :D). I also used Redline Diesel Water Wetter - I can't say if it will help, but I figure here in the Valley of the Sun it can't hurt.

If you want to use an extended life antifreeze I would suggest Zerex Extended Life Antifreeze. I have seen way too many systems with Dexcool that were rotted out. I know it is supposed to be improved now, but I still have my doubts. Regular green stuff protects aluminum just fine. You just have to change it every couple of years...

I have yet to have a problem with the dexcool, and have you ever seen the deposits you get with the green stuff, it's the silicates that deposit on the interior of all the engine system and the radiator.

As for filling the radiator I would start with it, if you don't have a cap on the radiator itself I would disconnect the upper radiator hose and fill.
You don't need the whole system to be full but you do need to have a good amount to start.
The overflow would work if you can get the container higher than the radiator so it can fill the radiator, but it will be slow since it has a small hose :rolleyes:
 
should i be running the heater? while im filling?

I believe the truck we have do not use a cut off for the coolant, they just divert the air to another area, coolant is always running thru the heater core.
If it were an import then yes, or maybe the newer domestics do that but not these trucks.:D
 
ok got it filled, let it sit at idle to about 190* the thermostat opened at 195 I believe. Put the cap on and drove around the block a few times. Temps got to 205-210, it didnt climb above that but again im just driving around the block. It sitting now off, should i wait till it cools down and go refill? Also im running a 16 psi cap. Should I try and find a 15 psi Cap?
 
well i filled it up alil and took it on a drive. it pretty much stays at 210 while driving and drops to about 190-200 at idle. While driving over the bridge it got to 215 but then i started to go down hill and the temp dropped. Do I have air in the system?
 
well i filled it up alil and took it on a drive. it pretty much stays at 210 while driving and drops to about 190-200 at idle. While driving over the bridge it got to 215 but then i started to go down hill and the temp dropped. Do I have air in the system?

Today wasn't particularly a hot day, but 215 isn't that bad, it will stay above the T stat temp when running, but as long as it doesn't go over the 220 you should be good.
I would give it a good uphill drive if you can and watch for any spikes in the temp, and then let cool down and check your overflow, if it's empty then you had some air in the system, refill and try again.
 
So at idle and cruising around i was at 190-200 degrees. Going over the larger bridge i hit 225 and it isnt hot at all right now. The reservoir is still where i set it at and the radiator is full. Once i let of the gas it cools down to 200 degrees again. I even put some of the royal purple water weter stuff.

I am running the same thermostat. I should see which type it is.
 
I have yet to have a problem with the dexcool, and have you ever seen the deposits you get with the green stuff, it's the silicates that deposit on the interior of all the engine system and the radiator.

Thats why you use a low silicate green antifreeze :wink1:

You've never seen a problem with Dexcool? GM lost 2 class action lawsuits and has to shell out potentially hundreds of millions of dollars in repair reimbursements due to the stuff. Rumor has it that the current Dexcool is a bit different, and the issues have been addressed. I will let someone else (like you :D) be the guinea pig for a few years before I am willing to use the stuff...
 
What year is your motor?


94 6.5 td. I have had it for almost 2 years and havent changed the T-stat:o To be honest not sure what one is in there now. Going to replace it tomorrow cuz I figure its past due anyway. Going for a 193-197 like Iceman suggested
 
My '83 has a 192 T-stat. It'll hit 205 while warming up, drop to 195 or so and never really move from there. I can't recall it ever running over 205 even on the hottest day and working it hard. :dunno:

Rene
 
I put a new stat in mine. GM doesn't have the one for the late 6.2's available anymore, so I got one for a mid 90's 6.5 app. I had to remove the bypass blocking disc and cut off the little protrusion it was attached to, and it works perfectly (the aftermarket choices were a Chinese made Stant or a CST, which have always been garbage. So, I went with a modified AC Delco instead :D). It runs 190-200. Today I towed a 3500lb trailer load and I ran her hard, and she still stayed at 200 degrees. So, yeah, I would say 225 is a bit excessive, especially for this time of year.
 
94 6.5 td. I have had it for almost 2 years and havent changed the T-stat:o To be honest not sure what one is in there now. Going to replace it tomorrow cuz I figure its past due anyway. Going for a 193-197 like Iceman suggested

Well 225 means there is something wrong, the fact that it drops when you let off gas, means either your temp sender or guage is not accurate and is getting signals from the alt, affecting the reading, or your Turbo diesel is running lean and getting a little more heat than what our N/A diesels are getting, or the Tstat is malfunctionning for some reason, but to me it looks more like an inaccurate guage reading.
One more thing I just thought of that could be the Tstat, when the water pump is flowing more (running higher RPM's ) the Tstat is lose and blocking the flow, then when the flow slows down it opens up.
So I guess try changing it first and then see what happens.
 
ok I got a Gates 195 degree t-stat. Only one I could find that wasnt a stant. Couldnt find one lower then 195 either. At Idle it stays at 195 and the coolant dropped when it did hit. I raides the front of the truck this time too.

Take it down the road and it climbs to about 200 and stays there. Take it back to the longer bridge and the temps start to climb to 215 but im giving a good bit of the go pedal, not flooring it though. As im still going up the hill it drops suddenly from 215 to 200. On the way down and the rest of the way on the freeway it stay at 210. Once off the FW it drops back down to 195. I have a sunpro temp gauge. Possible the gauge is funky?


LOl btw I do have a 10 bolt, 4 leaf packs and other junk in the bed :D on top of the 8 inch lift and 35's:p:
 

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