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New Rear End

MrSchaeferPants

MrSchaeferPants

1/2 ton status
Joined
Sep 8, 2010
Posts
3,528
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Location
Hot Springs, AR
So my 1/2 ton 10 bolt finally took a dump on me yesterday. I'm deciding whether or not to get a whole truck (cause I'd like to get more than just running gear) or just the front/rear axles. There's an awesome price on 3/4 ton axles, 4:10 gearing with Warn locking hubs on the front from CL.

But my question I guess is about tire/rim size. I have brand new 35" BFG KM2 M/T that are a month old, but they're on 15" rims. I read that 15" rims don't neccessarily fit, due to the brakes, but you can do some grinding on the calipers... I don't want to do that. I'm wondering what would be a better size rim, 16, 17 or 18? I don't want them to look too big and blingy, granted I'm going to find another set of 35"s, but I'm wondering what is more common/least expensive when buying tires. I also have a chance to buy a whole truck that has 16.5" rims with military 37s with run flats. But I've heard 16.5" is harder to find/more expensive when purchasing a tire.

So now I'm also kinda stuck sitting on these 1/2 ton axles, with brand new tires that I can't use. Hopefully someone'll buy 'em, ya the rear is shot, but the front has brand new inner/outer bearings and seal, and brand new Warn premium locking hubs.


Oh and I joined up on being a full member today. :waytogo:
 
15" wheels will fit over those axles, it's the Dana 60 front end that really creates problems with brake clearance. Unless you're getting wheels that have LOTS of backspacing you'll be fine.
 
About wheel size: My next set of wheels will be 17". There is a good selection of tires for that size. Good luck and keep us informed!!
 
I had some 15" steelies with 3.5" back spacing on the front 3/4 ton 10 bolt i had to do some grinding on the caliper, but it honestly wasn't that much, took about 30 mins per side with the grinding/test fitting and so on.

I'm running 17's now though
 
I would go 17s I have never had a 15" wheel clear 3/4 ton brakes. The grinding you have to do in minimal.

The reason I would go 17s is because of the huge tire selection that is now in the 17" size. 17s are the new 15.

With 17s you won't have any problem with a future 60 either.

Welcome to the site man
 
Awesome, thanks for the replies guys. I'll look around for a set of 17". Hopefully in the next day or so I can go pick up these axles and get to work on them. Reading around all the rear disc brake threads, planning on going that route. Saw the diy4x brackets, just gotta figure out the whole caliper/e-brake thing and I should be good to go. Well as far as the axles, the Blazer's a money pit. :D
 
ahahahahah
stay away from the rear disc for now, get everything else sound and then think about that. There's nothing wrong with it's stopping ability in drum form. I have 16" rims and finding sizes are hard, not 16.5" impossible, but difficult. I'd like to go 15's, but the clearancing and D60 issues aren't worth it.

If I just went 18's, I'd have an unlimited supply of left over 35" tires from my dads DD. But 18's are big.
 
Well everything just did a 360. I'm buying my buddies parts Jimmy, slapping the 12 bolt on my truck, selling my 35s tires seperately, and putting his old 35s on my truck and selling the 86 Blazer.

Cause.... I just bought a new truck! '85 GMC Jimmy High Sierra :D

I was on CL watching it like a crazy person... ya know, like you do. Looking for 3/4 ton running gear, and part trucks. And came across a CHERRY K5. So I get all excited, call all my buddies to see if any are shamming outa work and can take me down there, finally borrow my gf's car and drive an hour and a half to a little po dunk dealership where 'lo and behold, my now new Jimmy.

EVERYTHING is there. It's 100% stock, VERY well taken care of, must of been some old guy's putzing around truck. Odometer reads 68k, I believe it, or he took immaculate care of it if it's 168. Either way I don't care. New'ish GM Goodwrench replacement 350, and since every harness is plugged in, every vacume line present, AC hooked up, I imagine it was brought to a dealer/shop where it was installed as a 100% stock replacement motor. Ya it's a smog motor, but still a 350. Needs a tune up bad. I mean stoooooock, dual front shocks are present. Jack and lug wrench; yup mounted to the fenders, spare tire, never used, mounted where it's supposed to go (imagine that) WITH the cover. Stock radio, no broken plastic or chrome anywhere. Carpet is very nice, rear seat is very nice, power everything all work, you know the cover for the wires to unplug when you remove the top? Ya, that's there, WITH the sticker saying to remove it... ok I'm done ranting. Only problem is a cracked windshield, but the parts Jimmy has a perfect one, with the antenna like my new one has. And needs tires, but that's cool, I'll buy some off CL for cheap.

So part of me doesn't even want to turn this into a wheeler, just use it as a DD. Like I would cannibalize my Blazer for this thing if I had to. So the plan for now. Is to keep it stock, cause I gotta drive it 3000 miles to PA, and I was already worried my Blazer wouldn't make it. Plus didn't wanna drive that far, over snow, and mountain passes, with 6" of lift on 35 M/T. So this'll stay stock till I get there for a nicer ride, better mpg perhaps, and reliability. Then while I'm school I'll start aquiring axles, a new lift kit, tires..etc. Ya part of me wants to keep it a stock DD cause it's so nice, but of course that'll change :D

Reason I'm selling the blazer is cause mine's a straight wheeler I'm using as a DD cause it's all I have. A bit of cancer, it's been a nickle and dimer BIG time, all the carpet's gone, heat is rigged, lights are rigged, motor is going.. other stuff. Bought it for $850. I WOULD just changed over my lift, tires, lights, bumper, but, if I have a nice DD to goto PA, I need the money to get there, so I gotta get back what I just spent.

sorry for the long post, still in excited I just bought a new truck mode. :)
 
Oh ya pictures! Will get real pictures Saturday. No one to take me to get the truck, so I couldn't drive it and the car back by myself. Gunna go pick it up Saturday.

My 86 Blazer:
IMG_5578.jpg

IMG_5584.jpg

Before I bought the tires:
IMG_5529.jpg


New Jimmy: CL photo.
85jimmy.jpg


Oh ya and my buddies parts Jimmy has a nice new chrome oil pan and rubber gasket that'll prolly still be good, set of long tube headers and full exhaust I can steal. Part out the rest, elec fan, intake/carb stuffs. Might or might not pull my bumper for the Jimmy. Switching over my brand new Warn premium hubs, for the standard Warn hubs that's on the new Jimmy. Other stuff I can think of.

No the sticker isn't CLOSE to what I paid. :waytogo:
 
IMO only:
don't like ur rear bumper
don't like running boards

all has to go lol

but hey, you know what opinions are like

nice find too, spare tire cover, what's that? :)
 
It's a nice beefy bumper, I'm thinking of trying to sell it on CL, because eventually I want one of those nice rear bumpers w/tire carrier, high lift jack carrier..etc. I may buy one, or what I'm thinking is, making one, and front, while I'm at school since I'll have access to a full shop, which I can use for free less cost of materials. Prolly won't be as nice as those CNC'd ones, but I'll have made it myself.

Ya I hate those style running boards, but it'll stay there for the time being. I do like the 'nerf bars' and though I could find a set for $50 on CL if I kept my eye out, I REALLY like those sliders on diy4x.com, why spent $250 for chrome nerf bars when I could get a slider for a little more, or make one like it while at school.

Actually come to think of it, they probably DO have a CNC machine at school... Infact using one may be part of one of my courses. If not the Chasiss fab course guys will definitly be using it.
 
Do yourself a favor and get rid of the rust creating old man boards first thing...our K5's have enough rust issues without those 'helping'.

Also not a fan of the rear bumper on your '86.

Looks like a nice clean K5 though. Probably 168K though...most smallblocks last quite a bit longer than 68K before needing replacement, and you mentioned it had a crate replacement.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
Do yourself a favor and get rid of the rust creating old man boards first thing...our K5's have enough rust issues without those 'helping'.

Also not a fan of the rear bumper on your '86.

Looks like a nice clean K5 though. Probably 168K though...most smallblocks last quite a bit longer than 68K before needing replacement, and you mentioned it had a crate replacement.

Rene
Click to expand...

Didn't think about the rust part. Good call.

Should last in the late 100s at least, unless someone abused the engine. The reason I could believe 68k is original (not saying I do, just saying could) is because usually you can tell how old, how many owners a vehicle has from the interior. I had a 86 Olds Cutlass Supreme with 36k original miles. And the interior, well the whole entire car was mint. But I knew for a fact it was original because I knew the one and only previous owner. Just my opinion, of course. ;)
 
CherryK5 said:
Now how exactly is that a cherry k5?
Click to expand...

I sat there and second and was like :confused:

Then saw your name. :D

I don't wanna wait till Saturday, part of me wants to go grab tons of tune 'em up goodies but I guess I'll wait till I drive it home. Still bringing timming light and tools. Wish it had a tach dash. My other buddy has a full gauge cluster w/tach lying around, should see if I can aquire that from him, since he still hasn't paid me for the doors I got him for his 77 Jimmy. Think between the 3 of us we have 7 K5s lying around. :rolleyes:

IT'S AN ADDICTION :eek1:
 
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