I've got a 1990 Chevy K5 that's riding pretty rough and is in need of some new shocks (still has the ones from the factory). I've been debating on either getting some cheap Monroe's or going all out and getting some Bilstein 4600's. My question is whether or not I'll really feel a ride differnece in a truck like this if I get the Bilsteins?
CK5
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New Shocks for K5
- Thread starter dj31499
- Start date
If you still have OEM shocks you will notice a difference. However it is still a leaf spring stock k5.
So go with the bilsteins or will the monroes do the job?
If it's riding pretty rough, and on the same stock shocks, then any new shock is going to make a difference. But if you have the funds, get the Bilsteins. A fairly expensive option but you won't be disappointed.
Monroe is not a bad choice either.
Monroe is not a bad choice either.
Keep in mind shocks mostly control rebound after hitting bumps--truck should not bounce more than once or twice after a frost heave type of dip in the road..
Springs are what makes the ride smooth or harsh,depending on the stiffness,thickness of the leafs,etc..some aftermarket ones ride like dead axles,others are softer bust have more arch to lift the truck up higher than factory springs...
The tapered leaf front springs GM used are "negative arch" and look sagged even brand new and do not have much travel before they contact the bump stops,and aren't noted for a cushy smooth ride....if your feeling them bottom out on hard bumps easily it may be time for new springs, or shocks with a coil type booster spring..
Springs are what makes the ride smooth or harsh,depending on the stiffness,thickness of the leafs,etc..some aftermarket ones ride like dead axles,others are softer bust have more arch to lift the truck up higher than factory springs...
The tapered leaf front springs GM used are "negative arch" and look sagged even brand new and do not have much travel before they contact the bump stops,and aren't noted for a cushy smooth ride....if your feeling them bottom out on hard bumps easily it may be time for new springs, or shocks with a coil type booster spring..
Have to agree. *Generally* shocks do very little to control compression. Normally about 30% of their valving is for compression.
But if your springs (or diff since there is a bumper there too) are hitting your bumpstops, it's going to feel very harsh on bumps.
Mine rode terrible, looking at the springs it was clear the bumpstops were in frequent contact with the springs. You'll see the less-rusty spots. I trimmed the center bumpstops (that contact the spring plates over the axle tubes) as a test, and it immediately took care of the issue. This is not the proper approach, the springs are obviously worn, but I wanted to test it out, and didn't want to buy new springs at that time.
Still rides like an old leaf sprung truck, but the teeth rattling over every bump in the road was gone. Prior, even on the freeway it would bottom out over small bumps. Now it feels like an old Cadillac, floating over the same bumps. We won't talk about the steering similarities though. lol
But if your springs (or diff since there is a bumper there too) are hitting your bumpstops, it's going to feel very harsh on bumps.
Mine rode terrible, looking at the springs it was clear the bumpstops were in frequent contact with the springs. You'll see the less-rusty spots. I trimmed the center bumpstops (that contact the spring plates over the axle tubes) as a test, and it immediately took care of the issue. This is not the proper approach, the springs are obviously worn, but I wanted to test it out, and didn't want to buy new springs at that time.
Still rides like an old leaf sprung truck, but the teeth rattling over every bump in the road was gone. Prior, even on the freeway it would bottom out over small bumps. Now it feels like an old Cadillac, floating over the same bumps. We won't talk about the steering similarities though. lol
My K2500 was bottoming out on the front bump stops badly,even with no plow on it,the front springs were less than 1" from the bump stops--almost touching in fact---mine has the usual bump stops in the center of the spring,mounted on a frame bracket,plus a second one mounted further back near the shackle,on both sides..
Both of these bump stops got ripped off after a few thousand miles of street driving..with the plow on the truck,the bump stops are smooshed bad,they are supporting most of the weight,not the springs..
Replacing them immediately improved the ride quality up front,but with the springs being sagged enough to let them contact the bump stops much of the time,the bump stops "are" the springs,really!..
I do not expect the stock bump stops I had lying around I put on it to last very long..I may look into poly ones next time they need replacing..
When they were ripped off,the front springs now had some more travel,but the impact upon bottoming out was horrible,and there is also a third rubber bumper mounted above the front pinion (to prevent the diff from hitting the starter,or drive shaft,& oil pan I assume,or keep the front drive shaft from bottoming out on the slip yoke and punching the transfer case in,or force it back towards the rear)..
If I had money to burn.I'd buy a pair of Timbren front "jelly filled" bump stops,those will hold up to constant contact and relieve the front springs of some of the load and probably improve ride quality a lot compared to how it is now..but they go for $200 bucks..
I put a pair of like new shocks on it from an S-10 a friend had on his truck for maybe a year,they are the skinny stock type, by Gabriel--he was not satisfied with the ride,so he ditched them,(and found out bigger Monroe's he replaced them with,don't ride any better--maybe worse!)..
They didn't extend quite as far out as my original "correct"shocks,but I never get the truck air borne so I'm not worried about that,they fit well otherwise,and will collapse further than my originals,so no fear of the pistons hitting bottom or bending..
I did have to trim off the steel sleeves that stuck out about 1/8" on each bushing so they would fit in my brackets OK..same size bolts fit too..
The truck now rides noticeably better ,but I replaced the shocks to get rid of one that had leaked all its fluid out and started creaking and squeaking ,was driving me nuts,on top of doing nothing!--plus it was due for an inspection and the guy told me last year he didn't like seeing shocks with rotted off dust covers,even if they don't affect their performance..
I do not expect these shocks to last that long--I like the larger Monroe Magnums on a full sized 4x4 with a solid axle up front..for now they will get me by ok though..
Both of these bump stops got ripped off after a few thousand miles of street driving..with the plow on the truck,the bump stops are smooshed bad,they are supporting most of the weight,not the springs..
Replacing them immediately improved the ride quality up front,but with the springs being sagged enough to let them contact the bump stops much of the time,the bump stops "are" the springs,really!..
I do not expect the stock bump stops I had lying around I put on it to last very long..I may look into poly ones next time they need replacing..
When they were ripped off,the front springs now had some more travel,but the impact upon bottoming out was horrible,and there is also a third rubber bumper mounted above the front pinion (to prevent the diff from hitting the starter,or drive shaft,& oil pan I assume,or keep the front drive shaft from bottoming out on the slip yoke and punching the transfer case in,or force it back towards the rear)..
If I had money to burn.I'd buy a pair of Timbren front "jelly filled" bump stops,those will hold up to constant contact and relieve the front springs of some of the load and probably improve ride quality a lot compared to how it is now..but they go for $200 bucks..
I put a pair of like new shocks on it from an S-10 a friend had on his truck for maybe a year,they are the skinny stock type, by Gabriel--he was not satisfied with the ride,so he ditched them,(and found out bigger Monroe's he replaced them with,don't ride any better--maybe worse!)..
They didn't extend quite as far out as my original "correct"shocks,but I never get the truck air borne so I'm not worried about that,they fit well otherwise,and will collapse further than my originals,so no fear of the pistons hitting bottom or bending..
I did have to trim off the steel sleeves that stuck out about 1/8" on each bushing so they would fit in my brackets OK..same size bolts fit too..
The truck now rides noticeably better ,but I replaced the shocks to get rid of one that had leaked all its fluid out and started creaking and squeaking ,was driving me nuts,on top of doing nothing!--plus it was due for an inspection and the guy told me last year he didn't like seeing shocks with rotted off dust covers,even if they don't affect their performance..
I do not expect these shocks to last that long--I like the larger Monroe Magnums on a full sized 4x4 with a solid axle up front..for now they will get me by ok though..
What condition is the truck in?
LMFAO
or more specifically, the suspension?
LMFAO
or more specifically, the suspension?
Link it!
As a wise person once said on this site, buy the best shocks you can afford. If that is Monroes, they will be better than worn out stockers. But really, if you can afford Bilstiens, get them.
I bit the bullet and bought mine off of Amazon (5100's) for a little better price than most 4wd sites had them listed as. Free shipping pushed it over the edge. I can say over the Rough Country shocks that came with my original lift kit the Bilstiens were a night and day difference. Seriously. I know it's still a leaf sprung truck, but the road imperfections just get swallowed up by them. I had my rear's mule kicking over highway expansion joints (really nasty ones) and the new shocks don't have the tires leaving the ground on the same section of road. It made it a pleasure to drive again, not a torture chamber.
I bit the bullet and bought mine off of Amazon (5100's) for a little better price than most 4wd sites had them listed as. Free shipping pushed it over the edge. I can say over the Rough Country shocks that came with my original lift kit the Bilstiens were a night and day difference. Seriously. I know it's still a leaf sprung truck, but the road imperfections just get swallowed up by them. I had my rear's mule kicking over highway expansion joints (really nasty ones) and the new shocks don't have the tires leaving the ground on the same section of road. It made it a pleasure to drive again, not a torture chamber.
Thanks for all your input guys, I ended up going with the 4600's from Bilstien and it has made a notable difference in ride quality. I've ran into another issue with installing them though. I've got three out out of four of them installed, but the rear driver's side shock has a really tough mounting set-up right next to the gas tank where is get a ratchet or wrench in there to get it off. Even if I were to get it off, I don't know how I'd get the new one on, since the bilstiens come with the stud already inserted through the eyelet of the shock. Could I cut a whole near the original; spot in the frame, somewhere more accessible to mount the new shock?
Isn't the driver rear shock on a bracket above the frame? I would try a swivel and extension, if that is the case. (I believe that this is how it is...)
