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New shop build.

blazinzuk

blazinzuk

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I need to throw some ideas out there. I have asked on a couple other forums but the answers are much like Pirate 4x. You got experts, then EXPERTS, and then SUPER EXPERTS!!!! Hard wading through to get good info.

Pole barn


I plan on framing it every 24" with 2x4s hung horizontal to attach interior sheeting. Which will probably be OSB. Said 2x4s will be attached on the face of the 6x6 posts. I would imagine I will add some vertical 2x4 bracing as needed. Maybe one in between the posts, which are 10 ft apart.

Wiring is gonna be just basic. I am probably gonna run a 200 amp service out there. I'm friends with a couple linemen from the power company and they think that would be the simplest way. Also have access to a backhoe. So other than the trench being way bigger than it will need to be it will only cost me diesel to use it.

Outlets probably close to every 6 ft. With more in a couple of spots.

Gonna do LED lughting. Wiring in many more than I will initially purchase.

Insulation I'm not sure on. I think 1" foam board against the exterior. To help seal the building and then blow in insulation on the walls. I can get around R28 in the walls this way. I know some settling can happen if done wrong but I think I can manage it. Doing blow in for Attic though. Planning on R60 ish up there.

Pretty sure finishing the building and insulating might eat up my budget.

Anything major I'm missing?

Haven't settled on heat source yet.
 
blazinzuk said:
I need to throw some ideas out there. I have asked on a couple other forums but the answers are much like Pirate 4x. You got experts, then EXPERTS, and then SUPER EXPERTS!!!! Hard wading through to get good info.

Pole barn


I plan on framing it every 24" with 2x4s hung horizontal to attach interior sheeting. Which will probably be OSB. Said 2x4s will be attached on the face of the 6x6 posts. I would imagine I will add some vertical 2x4 bracing as needed. Maybe one in between the posts, which are 10 ft apart.

Wiring is gonna be just basic. I am probably gonna run a 200 amp service out there. I'm friends with a couple linemen from the power company and they think that would be the simplest way. Also have access to a backhoe. So other than the trench being way bigger than it will need to be it will only cost me diesel to use it.

Outlets probably close to every 6 ft. With more in a couple of spots.

Gonna do LED lughting. Wiring in many more than I will initially purchase.

Insulation I'm not sure on. I think 1" foam board against the exterior. To help seal the building and then blow in insulation on the walls. I can get around R28 in the walls this way. I know some settling can happen if done wrong but I think I can manage it. Doing blow in for Attic though. Planning on R60 ish up there.

Pretty sure finishing the building and insulating might eat up my budget.

Anything major I'm missing?

Haven't settled on heat source yet.
Click to expand...




https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...422187070-c-9901.htm?tid=-7104820684325029499

This is the building I bought this summer , now we just need to find a place to build it on............
 
yellowK20 said:
https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...422187070-c-9901.htm?tid=-7104820684325029499

This is the building I bought this summer , now we just need to find a place to build it on............
Click to expand...

That is excellent!!!!!

This place we bought had this on it already.

I am hoping to add 4 to 8 ft out front full height. Then add a 15 ft extension to the back making half of it into a guest room and the other half shop space. The out back part will be a lean to more or less.
 
No doubt heating in the floor. I'm kicking myself for not doing that. I've been going to garage journal for ideas, but some of those shops, people spend way more money than my house.
 
I'm not a fan of blown in for walls. Over time it can settle, add in the vibration from a shop envrioment and I think it'll happen faster.

My posts are 8' OC. I'm in the process of framing out and doing 6" batts then covering with OSB. I did blown in up in the ceiling though.

If you can swing the extra couple thousand, do spray foam. That will seal everything and make it air tight. For my 30x36x14 I was quoted just over 3k. But then you should cover the foam with something...so you have that cost still.

I heat with a wood furnace. I really wanted to do infloor, but it wasn't in the budget. One of the things with infoor is you have to keep it going all winter...weather you are out there or not. If it's tied into your house then it isn't a big deal. But for me only going out there every couple days it isn't a big deal for it to be cold the first hour or so.
 
I plan to heat 24/7 hence why I want to "super insulate". I was quoted 4900 for spray foam 1.5" thick. That's just walls. I love the idea but the foam board with sealed joints will run 1500 if I buy new and accomplish the same thing.

I have read alot about blow in for walls. You need to seperate the cavities and make sure of the density. It's easy to calculate how many bags you need per cavity. If you don't get that many bags in it will settle. If you do settling over several years is non existent. I'm still researching it. So we shall see. I found a place about a hundred miles away that has used and it seconds of foam board. Might try to do 6" of foam and then unfaced batts
 
Add reinforced areas in the slab in case you ever want to put a lift in. I wanted a lift but didn't have the extra money so I didn't give it much thought. Now 3 yrs later it would be a big project to add one.
 
Dont forget to not put PEX where the lift will be bolted down,if one is in the cards...and mark out where you omit it,so later on you'll know where its safe to mount it without puncturing a tube..

Ten feet apart on the poles is stretching it in my opinion,and 8 feet would be better,shorter lumber costs less,plywood comes in 4x8 sheets,and it'll increase the wind load resistance having the poles closer together--also make cross bracing the poles more effective..you may need a few more holes dug and poles,but it'll be worth it..

I'd use at least 2x6 girts on the poles to screw the metal siding too,or 2x4's with one vertical,and one horizontal nailed together in a offset "T" fashion to increase wind pressure resistance..

Before I ended up deciding to go with a quonset building,I bought several books on various building methods,including this one on pole buildings...if you cant access a book like this one online,I'd suggest a trip to a library and doing some reading on the subject..
I came close to making a pole building,then I thought about truss framed buildings,but the cheaper Quonset won out in the end..

51ymv3qJD2L._SL75_PIsitb-sticker-arrow-st,TopRight,8,-14_OU01_.jpg
 
Don't forget to have an air supply line running the perimeter of the shop. A dust collection can be made from pvc and hooked up to grinders, sanders, etc...cheap and good for you not to breathe.

I just got new led lighting for my garage. You can now link 8 lights togethor with 1 power cord if you use the commercial electric brand shop lights. Got mine from hd.
 
blazinzuk said:
That is excellent!!!!!

This place we bought had this on it already.

I am hoping to add 4 to 8 ft out front full height. Then add a 15 ft extension to the back making half of it into a guest room and the other half shop space. The out back part will be a lean to more or less.
Click to expand...

I think I already asked this last year, but I forgot. Why add to the front and the back both instead of just extending one gable? :popcorn:
 
blazinzuk said:
I plan to heat 24/7 hence why I want to "super insulate". I was quoted 4900 for spray foam 1.5" thick. That's just walls. I love the idea but the foam board with sealed joints will run 1500 if I buy new and accomplish the same thing.

I have read alot about blow in for walls. You need to seperate the cavities and make sure of the density. It's easy to calculate how many bags you need per cavity. If you don't get that many bags in it will settle. If you do settling over several years is non existent. I'm still researching it. So we shall see. I found a place about a hundred miles away that has used and it seconds of foam board. Might try to do 6" of foam and then unfaced batts
Click to expand...

Heating 24/7 wold be nice, but I can't justify the cost/effort right now. Maybe a few years down the line. Once it's insulated and I find out how well it holds heat I might look into a boiler setup for the house with an exchanger out in the barn. Or a mini split, get heat an AC that way.

One thing I didn't add in the first post was ceiling fans. I've got two in my shop. They work great to push the heat back down. Just keep them spinning slowly. Have to remember about them when welding though. I figure this summer I can crank up their speed and get some air moving when it gets warm.



nvrenuf said:
Add reinforced areas in the slab in case you ever want to put a lift in. I wanted a lift but didn't have the extra money so I didn't give it much thought. Now 3 yrs later it would be a big project to add one.
Click to expand...

jekquistk5 said:
Or get a baseplate style lift. Only 3" of concrete is required. Also don't forget a moisture barrier. Plastic or house wrap.
Click to expand...


Also forgot about this. We dug down an extra couple inches where the lift was going. It should be 7" or so on that side, once I drill holes we'll find out how well we did. Plan your saw cuts too. You don't want a 2post lift on two separate slabs if you can avoid it. My concrete is less than a year old and already has a few hairline cracks. I was worried at first and thought they might move once the ground thawed...but so far they are fine. I guess it's normal for it to crack like mine did. They all showed up at once and haven't gotten any worse, something to do with the way it shrinks as it hardens. We also put a plastic moisture barrier under the pour. Consider putting in some anchor pots. I did two, centered in each bay along the back. Makes winching in a dead vehicle easy. Already used mine a few times.

As far as lifts go, if you have the height and floor for it, avoid the baseplate style if you can. The benefit of being able to roll a transmission jack or drain pan around is a huge plus.


wetoolowdingbangow said:
Don't forget to have an air supply line running the perimeter of the shop. A dust collection can be made from pvc and hooked up to grinders, sanders, etc...cheap and good for you not to breathe.

I just got new led lighting for my garage. You can now link 8 lights togethor with 1 power cord if you use the commercial electric brand shop lights. Got mine from hd.
Click to expand...


Things like air/electric/water can be dealt with once it's dried in. Aside from deciding how you're going to get the stuff in the building, the routing can be pretty flexible. My electric and water comes in from underground. I also put in an extra PEX line back up to the house so I can have compressed air up at the front garage (beats having to drive back when all I need is to air up a tire).

I did 4 outlets on every post, each wall has it's own breaker...and so far I haven't had the need to add any more 110's. I would like to add a few more 220's for the welder just so I don't have to drag out the extension cord.

Airlines will be plumbed with copper around the ceiling with drops where I need them. I priced it out and copper sounds expensive, but it really isn't. Add in that you don't need to deal with threading pipe (or dealing with pre-cut lengths), and no leaks from joints it was a no brainer for me. I didn't really consider any of the pre-made kits (aluminum) because I'd need at least two of them to get everywhere I want. After being out there for almost a year I have a real good idea where I want/need them. One reel on the ceiling near the lift (along with an extension cord reel and drop light), a few against the back wall. I have a rubber airline wound up near the overhead doors to get things out in the drive.

Lighting. If you want good light with high ceilings (and 13-14' isn't THAT high) it won't be cheap. I went with T5HO's. So far I have five 8' fixtures. It's enough to work out there without much trouble, but I plan to add another 5 or so. Under the loft I put 4' LED fixtures. A good idea is to not put all the lights on one switch. I have two circuits (each on their own breaker) for the big lights. Most of them will come on with one switch, while a couple on the other. The under loft lights are on their own circuit/switch. This way if I need to run in for a minute and grab something I don't need all the lights on. Or if you're just hanging out BS'ing you don't need operating room lighting.



There is only so much planing you can do. I had literally been planing my build for 10+ years...and I'm still changing things or running into things I didn't think of. Like where do I keep the floor jacks/jack stands. Or things you don't need, but want. A good radio/sound system, wifi/computer access. I will be running an ethernet cable this summer, probably a cable line for TV too while I have the ground open. A mini fridge was added before I got too far into it too, microwave is on the list soon too.
 
blazinzuk said:
I plan to heat 24/7 hence why I want to "super insulate". I was quoted 4900 for spray foam 1.5" thick. That's just walls. I love the idea but the foam board with sealed joints will run 1500 if I buy new and accomplish the same thing.
Click to expand...

How do you plan to seal between the boards? I'm not an expert, but I have done foam boards, several types of fiberglass, blow-in, and sprayfoam. Speed and cost vary a lot between the methods.

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