k5-newbie
1/2 ton status
Well, finally finished my front spring hangers today...be easy on my welds i am a welding newbie. Also posted some poser pics to show off the flex 
CK5
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new spring hangers and poser pics :)
- Thread starter k5-newbie
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DavidB
1/2 ton status
FYI: always weld along your material (like the frame) never across. Creates a fracture point. Unless it's already cracked, then you kinda have to
Got any more pix? Couldn't really make it all out.
Got any more pix? Couldn't really make it all out.
sled_dog
1 ton status
K10A'sBROinSLO said:FYI: always weld along your material (like the frame) never across. Creates a fracture point. Unless it's already cracked, then you kinda have to
I've heard this before but also seen it done many times with no issue, so is this just something people say or what? I did it on my S10 frame and thoughta bout the fact that maybe I shouldn't have afterwards. I have to do it more when I attach the new crossmember. I mean, its done from the factory , why is doing it when strengthening a frame so bad?
sweet truck k5-newbie. with ur zero-rates, did u move the axle forward any or just for extra lift? if you moved it forward, can u take a pic of it just sitting normal? id apprciate it. i want to see how the 1" forward looks in the fenderwells. i see u trimmed the rear part, but did u trim the front?
looks good!
thanks
looks good!
thanks
k5-newbie
1/2 ton status
yes, i moved the front forward...will take a pic tomorrow and post it for you, thanks for the compliments.
thanks dude. i really like the paint job too.
DavidB
1/2 ton status
sled_dog said:
Well I know that when welding on (semi) truck frames, backhoes, land scrapers, etc all the different stuff we repair at the shop, whenever we weld on reinforcements (fish plates), we never weld across the ends, unless we taper the ends of the plate. On a semi truck, you're a lot closer to the breaking point than on a light truck. They get a lot more miles and harder beatings. Also, it's more important on a C channel frame than a boxed frame. When a semi frame cracks, we take all the suspension, etc off, reweld the crack, put 4' long C channel reinforcements inside the frame, and bolt them in with the existing bolts for the suspension, etc. There's almost aways a sticker on the frames that says NOT to drill or weld on the flanges. I don't know anything about your S-10, like tire, engine size or driving style, but if you're mostly stock doing mostly stock stuff, it could be ok. Also depends on what part of the frame, lots of factors, really. Most frames are made to flex...when you weld on something, you create a spot that doesn't want to flex, so it may break. On that big chevy, I wouldn't weld acros the frame right at the spring hanger, which is a stress point. A lot of times, something comes in that's been weded before. You can see where it was cracked, welded, cracked, again, welded, etc. Then you gotta arc-air it all out, weld it up, grind it smooth, and carefully reinforce it to distribute the stress load. Whew! make more sense now?
DavidB
1/2 ton status
That tickles a memory in my brain...i think truck frames are...but i can't remember about pickups....sorry! But it would make a difference, for sure.
BL1TZKRIEG
1/2 ton status
nice
DavidB
1/2 ton status
welding - fracture points
Here's a job I'm working on at work...jackhammer off a backhoe. Notice how the plate broke right at the weld across it. Part of the inside of the crack is actually old and dirty...it was cracked there for awhile before it finally fell off.
Here's a job I'm working on at work...jackhammer off a backhoe. Notice how the plate broke right at the weld across it. Part of the inside of the crack is actually old and dirty...it was cracked there for awhile before it finally fell off.
steve_kibbe
1/2 ton status
so what you're saying is it should not have been welded right above where it cracked, where circled in red, right?
Kiwi John
1/2 ton status
Asuming it was designed by a proper engineer?
Jackhammers take a lot of vibration - arch enemy of steel fabrication.
Compared to the weld around the pin-eye hole that broken weld doesn't look to have any penetration along the upper boundary with the main frame. see a dark line there instead of nice grey melt line.
My welding teacher told me that the area immediatly adjacent to the weld (called the HAZ - Heat Affected Zone) is the weakest. Thats why you have to get your amps etc right, and proper penetration of your weld, and after cooling etc. The Qualified welders on thes forum will be able to expand on this I'm sure.
Semi frames are heat treated after all the holes are punched, rather than drilled, to help them spring back after twisting I believe.
Anyway, Nice truck k5newbie. 
Jackhammers take a lot of vibration - arch enemy of steel fabrication.
Compared to the weld around the pin-eye hole that broken weld doesn't look to have any penetration along the upper boundary with the main frame. see a dark line there instead of nice grey melt line.
My welding teacher told me that the area immediatly adjacent to the weld (called the HAZ - Heat Affected Zone) is the weakest. Thats why you have to get your amps etc right, and proper penetration of your weld, and after cooling etc. The Qualified welders on thes forum will be able to expand on this I'm sure.
Semi frames are heat treated after all the holes are punched, rather than drilled, to help them spring back after twisting I believe.
Anyway, Nice truck k5newbie.
Its true.
I'm setting up some homemade Shackle flips in the rear now and the main part was used from a Semi Frame. I can drill holes right through the Blazer frame but this **** is tough. It dulled out my bits real fast.
I'm setting up some homemade Shackle flips in the rear now and the main part was used from a Semi Frame. I can drill holes right through the Blazer frame but this **** is tough. It dulled out my bits real fast.
DavidB
1/2 ton status
Sandman said:
Haha no kidding! We have a big drill with an electromagnetic base that hangs from the crane to drill holes in 'em.
DavidB
1/2 ton status
so what you're saying is it should not have been welded right above where it cracked, where circled in red, right?
Not necessarily. Another part of the problem was that where the bushing was welded in was right at the same point, and the bushing weld did not penetrare the plate at that point. If it wasn't welded there, the plate probably would peel off. Kind of a catch 22. I think it actually broke beacuase someone messed up while hooking up to it with the 'hoe. I just posted it to show that if something is going to break, it's ognna break at the weld.
Not necessarily. Another part of the problem was that where the bushing was welded in was right at the same point, and the bushing weld did not penetrare the plate at that point. If it wasn't welded there, the plate probably would peel off. Kind of a catch 22. I think it actually broke beacuase someone messed up while hooking up to it with the 'hoe. I just posted it to show that if something is going to break, it's ognna break at the weld.
89GMCSuburban
1/2 ton status
Normal pickup frames shouldn't be heat treated. Never seen the "DO NOT WELD FRAME" stickers on light trucks
You see people welding to this stuff all the time, I mean, what does Peterson's do every time thay make a suspension?
I wouldn't be worried as long as you follow the guidelines : No welding or drilling on flanges
You see people welding to this stuff all the time, I mean, what does Peterson's do every time thay make a suspension?
I wouldn't be worried as long as you follow the guidelines : No welding or drilling on flanges
SUPER'BURB
1/2 ton status
K5-newbie
Your rig is PIMP!!!!!!!
The liner paint job rocks and I love your bumpers!! 
Your rig is PIMP!!!!!!!
The liner paint job rocks and I love your bumpers!!
