Jay Bird
Registered Member
Putting new stock springs under blazer. Removing 2" lift, should I or do I have to get new u bolts? I know rear will have to be new because I'm removing block but don't know about front.
CK5
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New springs and ubolts
- Thread starter Jay Bird
- Start date
It's safer to get new ones, but you still need to retighten after a few miles, maybe even repeatedly until you don't have any slack.
rampage
3/4 ton status
Never reuse u-bolts. They stretch when they are tightened. Get new ones.
rampage
3/4 ton status
Remind me never to get in a duel with you. I think you're quicker at the draw.
Actually that is not what happens:
The new U bolts have rolled threads and once the nut cuts them the first time, they are lose and will supposedly losen up.
Fact is if you keep checking them which is safer anyway, they only need a couple of times until they settle perfectly perpendicular which is the shortest distance and after that, they do not losen in my experience.
Never bought a new U bolt ever.
Jay Bird
Registered Member
Just looked at new spring pack and it only has one band ( if that is what you call it) around one end of springs. It's about 4" from one end. The ones on the blazer now have band around each end. Is this normal? Also one end of spring looks like it's wound tight around bushing and other is loose looking if this makes any sense. It's the same on both springs. Is there a front and rear end to spring or does it matter? New at this so be easy.
Where is best place to get u bolts, what size, same for front and back?
Thanks!
Where is best place to get u bolts, what size, same for front and back?
Thanks!
Bands are different from each manufacturer, so yes it's normal to see what you saw.
As for orientation, the front spring does have a direction and it will be obvious, the rear, if it has a band on one side I would put it on the front.
or if the clamp is tight on one side and lose on the other, I would put the tight one forward.
rampage
3/4 ton status
SO even though you were right about the recomendation which is what every company will say, experience has tought me that even when deformed the Ubolt threads can still hold the proper torque, you just need to align the Ubolts correctly and it's hard when you are installing springs, so you need to work them and retorque them a few ties, wether new or used.Somebody stands corrected .... but I won't say who
In his case, getting new springs, I would use new Ubolts, unless the springs that he is replacing were taller than the new ones and the threads were it will tighten would be still new.
Just as an observation, if the OP is removing a block or thicker spring pack, the threads contacted by the nuts will be "fresh" as you mention. The only concern will be if the u-bolt threads that were against the spring plate or springs are worn down, which I have seen quite commonly. I toss those. All four corners of my truck are used u-bolts, and all were/are torqued to proper spec, including multiple times verifying that they hadn't loosened.
Here's a bit from a company on roll threading: http://www.portlandbolt.com/faqs/rolled-vs-cut-threads-bolts
The type of metal used is likely more important than how the threads are made. A "soft" u-bolt would be more likely to "loosen" I would expect, but I'm willing to bet *GM* didn't go cheap on the u-bolt material.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
And also in the same theory you could throw an extra washer on each leg of the u bolt to grab new un torqued threads when re-installing them essentially doing the same thing as putting new ones on.
Jay Bird
Registered Member
Best place to get new ubolts and certain size?
Stomis
Professional Amateur
9/16ths
I would go to a local spring supplier
I would go to a local spring supplier
I typed this in response to your PM but you can't recieve, your box is full:
Well I don't know your area, but here I just go to truck shops that make springs and Ubolts for big rigs, they are the best and the cheapest, but you will need to give them the right info.
I would take the one you have now and mark on it where the spring plate would be to give them an idea how long it should be, assuming that the one you have is the same size or longer than what you need.
I saw a guy at a swap meet selling a new set of 4 U-bolts ,that he got from Jegs--I was tempted to buy them,but wasn't sure if they were the right length or width to fit my 3/4 ton rear axle,so I passed on them--he said he paid 30 bucks for the 4 of them,and was willing to take 15 for them....if I wasn't so short on cash I'd have bought them,they probably would have worked for me,but I didn't have 15 bucks to "waste" on U-bolts I couldn't use if they didn't fit...here,local spring shops get 12-15 bucks each to make them up,or for ready made ones ,a 15+ mile ride away...
This has been discussed several times on here already. Lots of guys admitting to using used hardware (oh no!), but I can't remember any stories of broken U-bolts. I'm sure you're all hammering out and replacing your wheel studs every time you take a wheel off, too, right?
Maybe I'm strange, but I almost never take the U-bolts off and then put them back on just for fun. If I have that apart, I'm changing something, like adding a leaf or swapping springs. I think compatibility and condition are bigger issues than the fact it's been torqued before. The most obvious reason to use new U-bolts is that the old ones don't fit anymore. If the total spring pack is bigger, the old U-bolts are too short because they were cut off in the old configuration. If the spring pack is smaller, the nut may have to thread onto the portion of the U-bolt threads damaged by the spring plate, so that won't work either. This is why you save the U-bolts you take off anyway, so you have different lengths to choose from in the future. If the U-bolt won't come off without heat, or the corrosion is serious - they're junk. But if they are a quality U-bolt in good condition and the right length, I would reach for them ahead of new ones from the local parts stores.
Maybe I'm strange, but I almost never take the U-bolts off and then put them back on just for fun. If I have that apart, I'm changing something, like adding a leaf or swapping springs. I think compatibility and condition are bigger issues than the fact it's been torqued before. The most obvious reason to use new U-bolts is that the old ones don't fit anymore. If the total spring pack is bigger, the old U-bolts are too short because they were cut off in the old configuration. If the spring pack is smaller, the nut may have to thread onto the portion of the U-bolt threads damaged by the spring plate, so that won't work either. This is why you save the U-bolts you take off anyway, so you have different lengths to choose from in the future. If the U-bolt won't come off without heat, or the corrosion is serious - they're junk. But if they are a quality U-bolt in good condition and the right length, I would reach for them ahead of new ones from the local parts stores.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
That made me smile because everytime Im gonna do something that dictates a new u bolt size I cut the old ****ers off
