if I need to change the glow plugs is there a nice best way to have the best luck getting them out ?
like warm/ cold motor ?
soak threads with something ?
like warm/ cold motor ?
soak threads with something ?
CK5
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new to the club UPDATE : new question post 39
- Thread starter sweetk30
- Start date
All 8 glow plugs on my pickup came out fine as far as unscrewing them out of the heads,once I was able to get a socket pounded on them that would grab them--the hex was rotted away to 5/16" on a few ,instead of 3/8,had to hammer a 6 point 5/16" socket on them...only one refused to come out,the rest I had to wrestle them out with vise grips,carb cleaner & Wd-40 sprayed on the tips and pulled and twisted till they came out--I think they were original 9G's!..
The one that wouldn't come out all the way I decided to just screw back in,its been that way 10 years and usually starts up OK even without the block heater,unless its below 10 degrees out..I even tried chucking that glow plug in a drill and running it in reverse while pulling outwards on it--it felt like the tip had expanded too much to ever fit thru the head hole,so before I busted it off,I gave up and screwed it back in..
They sell extractor tools to pull stuck ones out,they are just basically a 10mm nut sawed in half--some guys weld a slide hammer on a pair of vise grips to use as a puller--but the tips are fragile and can snap off pretty easy,so I wasn't brave enough to try the puller tools..other guys suggested I just start it up with the glow plug unscrewed and stand clear!--and rev it up if it dont come out right away..be like a bullet if it did...I wasn't brave enough to try that either..
I had an Autolite 1110 glow plug lose most of its tip in the #3 cylinder while driving it one day..it clattered like hell for 5 miles,till I decided to floor it several times when I was close enough to walk home..the noise subsided,the chunks must have blown out the exhaust,but ever since that day it has had a sound like a loose tappet until it warms up fully..so I assume it bent a pushrod a bit or maybe a valve got kissed..probably didn't do the cylinder any justice either..
I've only changed the glow plugs on my suburban's 6.2 on the drivers side,they were replaced with 60G's before and they came right out...
I'm not looking forward to doing the passenger side--it has A/C and the evaporator box covers the rearmost two up--looks like a hoe-wa to get at...
I think yours will unscrew OK ,the battle is getting the tips out without breaking them off...then you'll have to pull the injector and fish the pieces out with a shop vac,or some other means..I didn't want to have to do that on my pickup because I knew the rusty injector lines would be likely not survive being loosened or tweaked..
The one that wouldn't come out all the way I decided to just screw back in,its been that way 10 years and usually starts up OK even without the block heater,unless its below 10 degrees out..I even tried chucking that glow plug in a drill and running it in reverse while pulling outwards on it--it felt like the tip had expanded too much to ever fit thru the head hole,so before I busted it off,I gave up and screwed it back in..
They sell extractor tools to pull stuck ones out,they are just basically a 10mm nut sawed in half--some guys weld a slide hammer on a pair of vise grips to use as a puller--but the tips are fragile and can snap off pretty easy,so I wasn't brave enough to try the puller tools..other guys suggested I just start it up with the glow plug unscrewed and stand clear!--and rev it up if it dont come out right away..be like a bullet if it did...I wasn't brave enough to try that either..
I had an Autolite 1110 glow plug lose most of its tip in the #3 cylinder while driving it one day..it clattered like hell for 5 miles,till I decided to floor it several times when I was close enough to walk home..the noise subsided,the chunks must have blown out the exhaust,but ever since that day it has had a sound like a loose tappet until it warms up fully..so I assume it bent a pushrod a bit or maybe a valve got kissed..probably didn't do the cylinder any justice either..
I've only changed the glow plugs on my suburban's 6.2 on the drivers side,they were replaced with 60G's before and they came right out...
I'm not looking forward to doing the passenger side--it has A/C and the evaporator box covers the rearmost two up--looks like a hoe-wa to get at...
I think yours will unscrew OK ,the battle is getting the tips out without breaking them off...then you'll have to pull the injector and fish the pieces out with a shop vac,or some other means..I didn't want to have to do that on my pickup because I knew the rusty injector lines would be likely not survive being loosened or tweaked..
Southern truck the hex part should be fine. Let's hope they are already the self limiting variety, then they'll come ouyt easy. If any are swollen, some guys have had luck dicking with it til the swollen tip part caught the threads and turned out.
I never had issues getting any of mine out...
to much o.t at work so will play with truck in next few days I hope . 
thanks so far for the help brothers.
thanks so far for the help brothers.
I know of another short bed, step side diesel C10, but it's probably gone now and I believe it was the older "Olds" engine as it had a Pontiac engine in it and round had lights. A friend of mine looked at it several years ago as a project.
another friends dad had a 80's short step 4x4 with 6.2 and the 883 4speed light duty 3speed with over drive tranny .
I saw a near twin to my '82 8' stepside on Craigslist Boston for sale several months ago,the same maroon/red color,6.2,it had the same old school Fisher plow setup as mine too,and I think it was a 4 speed manual,had dual tanks too,which I thought only my truck had--it was originally bought by some GM dealership in central MA and used as a lot plow and parts delivery "company" truck..thing was still shiny and mint too,and wasn't priced cheap at 5500 bucks..I bet the number of trucks made with that drivetrain & bed are less than a couple hundred,I rarely see any 8' Stepsides here ,2WD or 4x4...never mine diesel ones..
Eh, I don't know the facts of it, and never researched it. I simply posted on DP looking for information and was initially told something to the effect of "someone must have swapped on that bed, they never made a factory short step 6.2". We went back and forth on VIN and such, and as I recall, he (or someone) eventually responded that it appeared to be a custom order (stone base no option) through fleet sales, and that he could find no other like it from the factory. <shrug> It was supposed to be a clean unmolested donor for my K5, but I grew to like it so much (not even considering the supposed rarity, though that did make it harder to scrap) that I kept it as it was.
about the glow plugs, I did mine back in the fall (while they were cold). They came right out, much to my pleasant surprise.
They were a mixed set. Some had 3/8's hexes, others 10mm.
They were a mixed set. Some had 3/8's hexes, others 10mm.
about the glow plugs, I did mine back in the fall (while they were cold). They came right out, much to my pleasant surprise.
They were a mixed set. Some had 3/8's hexes, others 10mm.
I forgot to mention that. Last month I bought one set each of AC Delco 60G and Bosch Duraterm glow plugs for comparison purposes. The Delco plugs came in 3/8ths, the Bosch plugs came in 10mm. Not sure about other brands.
They should be 1/2" hex at least,for the salt belt states!...
update info .. . .
my farmer buddy is clearing out ( long story )
he offer me the old flatbed he has with rotted cab floor . has 4 3/4 tread drive tires I sold him he hardly drove on . good 14ff rear . few sheet metal parts / and a super nice bench seat .
best part before our old friend passed away he worked on it for him . did a electric lift pump mod / moved 2nd filter up to firewall ( 82 model truck both spin on ) and also did 8 new injectors / good used hard lines from member here / rubber return hose kit / 8 new glow plugs / front cover gasket set and timming chain set / best part reman injector pump on it . ( I went and got it for him from local shop ) even has a good rad in it also .
so if this thing fires and runs good after sitting for over a year not moved I am grabbing it and parting it out and will swap the motor over to the 1/2 ton 2wd in this thread .
but in my collection of parts I also have a 3/4 ton frame that's 4x4 and a spare set of 1ton axles I could toss under it and make it 4x4 . . . .
my farmer buddy is clearing out ( long story )
he offer me the old flatbed he has with rotted cab floor . has 4 3/4 tread drive tires I sold him he hardly drove on . good 14ff rear . few sheet metal parts / and a super nice bench seat .
best part before our old friend passed away he worked on it for him . did a electric lift pump mod / moved 2nd filter up to firewall ( 82 model truck both spin on ) and also did 8 new injectors / good used hard lines from member here / rubber return hose kit / 8 new glow plugs / front cover gasket set and timming chain set / best part reman injector pump on it . ( I went and got it for him from local shop ) even has a good rad in it also .
so if this thing fires and runs good after sitting for over a year not moved I am grabbing it and parting it out and will swap the motor over to the 1/2 ton 2wd in this thread .
but in my collection of parts I also have a 3/4 ton frame that's 4x4 and a spare set of 1ton axles I could toss under it and make it 4x4 . . . .
info from other thread for combined reading .
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=316177
its from the smoking when running and not stopping .
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=316177
its from the smoking when running and not stopping .
got this fired up this morning . hadn't been run in over a 1year .
charged batt's / for good 6-7 hrs other day and around 1hr today . also pluged in the block heater I don't think they new they had cord tucked away and covered in dirt. she started to pop/girgle for few seconds .
around 1hr later I pulled the air cleaner and gave here a few shots of brake parts cleaner as I was rollin it . and vroom vroom she was off and runnin . min or so and she was smooth and clear exhaust .
took and warmed here up a bit and then around the block a few times and only time it puffs a hair bit of smoke is if you rev the throttle and lay off then its a tiny puff for 1 sec or so and back to clear.
she has a reman injector pump / good used lines / 8 reman injectors / t-set. was done by a guy ( r.i.p bob f. ) who was a good old diesel mechanic for years . he ever did the 2nd tiny spin on filter move over to custom bracket mod with a electric inline pump .
spent better part of day in shop just pluggin along and got the unit ready to pull minus bell housing bolts .
this truck will be cut up as frame / cab / flatbed all rusted to far . so I will make it live on in other trucks .
charged batt's / for good 6-7 hrs other day and around 1hr today . also pluged in the block heater I don't think they new they had cord tucked away and covered in dirt. she started to pop/girgle for few seconds .
around 1hr later I pulled the air cleaner and gave here a few shots of brake parts cleaner as I was rollin it . and vroom vroom she was off and runnin . min or so and she was smooth and clear exhaust .
took and warmed here up a bit and then around the block a few times and only time it puffs a hair bit of smoke is if you rev the throttle and lay off then its a tiny puff for 1 sec or so and back to clear.
she has a reman injector pump / good used lines / 8 reman injectors / t-set. was done by a guy ( r.i.p bob f. ) who was a good old diesel mechanic for years . he ever did the 2nd tiny spin on filter move over to custom bracket mod with a electric inline pump .
spent better part of day in shop just pluggin along and got the unit ready to pull minus bell housing bolts .
this truck will be cut up as frame / cab / flatbed all rusted to far . so I will make it live on in other trucks .
anyone know if I can unplug the firewall plug from the 82 part out truck and plug it in no problems on the 83 truck ?
as I pull the motor from the 82 parts truck it would be super nice to bolt in / plug n play .
and I know the headlight / tail light sections pop off the block separate so I have that all off now. just the engine side stuff.
thanks for any info you might be able to provide.
as I pull the motor from the 82 parts truck it would be super nice to bolt in / plug n play .
and I know the headlight / tail light sections pop off the block separate so I have that all off now. just the engine side stuff.
thanks for any info you might be able to provide.
I'm not sure,but I bet it will mate at the fuse box...only one way to find out,unless someone here has actually done it..
Too bad your cutting it up--front part of the frame doesn't look too rusty,better than my '82 k2500 looks!..is is wasted in the rear?...it'll make a good donor for parts at least...
Too bad your cutting it up--front part of the frame doesn't look too rusty,better than my '82 k2500 looks!..is is wasted in the rear?...it'll make a good donor for parts at least...
oh my god this cab was ready to fall apart. no floor pans and bottom frame for windshield rusted out and flexed a lot when I poped out the glass.
took and cut the cab up in to roof / firewall - front floor / back wall - back floor sections real easy with sawsall .
the frame is real this were the factory bolt on brace rails go under the firewall on the bottom of the frame . and also the rear sections and hangers are severe scale rust . the flatbed is paper thin on the decking plate and the rails are rusted out in places also .
I am going to get some good scrap money for this sucker .
the 14ff drw and 4 3/4 tread tires will be saved .
front swaybar saved also for upgrade in my c10 I think its a easy bolt in if I recall .
and front frame rail left side cut off for steering box fix on the 83 c10 6.2 the motor is going in .
took and cut the cab up in to roof / firewall - front floor / back wall - back floor sections real easy with sawsall .
the frame is real this were the factory bolt on brace rails go under the firewall on the bottom of the frame . and also the rear sections and hangers are severe scale rust . the flatbed is paper thin on the decking plate and the rails are rusted out in places also .
I am going to get some good scrap money for this sucker .
the 14ff drw and 4 3/4 tread tires will be saved .
front swaybar saved also for upgrade in my c10 I think its a easy bolt in if I recall .
and front frame rail left side cut off for steering box fix on the 83 c10 6.2 the motor is going in .
Looks good! I like these 6.2 trucks.
But you probably knew that already...
Gurgling and popping is what my (frost plug) block heaters sound like.
But you probably knew that already...
Gurgling and popping is what my (frost plug) block heaters sound like.
well I have a idea .
today I went and checked the 3/4 ton 4x4 frame out . looks real good still . I think I can get it cheep .
I have a set of 1ton axles with 4.10 gears . easy for me to move spring pads or swap hangers I got both ways covered.
body swap the 2wd to the 4wd frame after I assemble the roller frame .
the 2wd truck would be nice but it needs frame fixed at steering box section . the box is ready to fall off . so its going to need major rework .
I have more faith in selling a 4x4 around here than a 2wd .
do you think since I have the means / tools / ability to do a 2wd to 4x4 swap it would be a waste of my time ?
it would be a good running 6.2/th400-205/4.10/235/85/16 tires southern body . all 1 paint job on it not mix/match mut truck .
also I have ability to swap in a divorced 205 and keep the 700r4 tranny .
today I went and checked the 3/4 ton 4x4 frame out . looks real good still . I think I can get it cheep .
I have a set of 1ton axles with 4.10 gears . easy for me to move spring pads or swap hangers I got both ways covered.
body swap the 2wd to the 4wd frame after I assemble the roller frame .
the 2wd truck would be nice but it needs frame fixed at steering box section . the box is ready to fall off . so its going to need major rework .
I have more faith in selling a 4x4 around here than a 2wd .
do you think since I have the means / tools / ability to do a 2wd to 4x4 swap it would be a waste of my time ?
it would be a good running 6.2/th400-205/4.10/235/85/16 tires southern body . all 1 paint job on it not mix/match mut truck .
also I have ability to swap in a divorced 205 and keep the 700r4 tranny .
I think it could work, but body-swapping seems like a lot of extra work unless the current frame is shot. I'd think it would be easier to repair the existing frame and then convert that to 4x4 if you want.
What is your intended purpose? Is this a vehicle you wanna drive daily, or a project, or something you wanna flip?
4.10 gears are really low for a 6.2, even if you kept the O/D. With those tires and the TH400, I wouldn't be comfortable running that rig over 45MPH (M1008 owners are a step worse off, but I don't think I've met one that enjoyed the gearing combination on the road). I find that my Suburban's 3.73/700R4/31" combination is lower than I'd prefer for good street driving.
