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mntbound

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I posted in the introductions and never got a response:confused: so I thought I would find a place to introduce my self and seek some guidence.

So, I live in Northeast CO. I am looking to replace the axles in Big Blue and repair my t case. I've now been told 2 thing repeatedly. It could be the output shaft or the slip yoke. Both show wear, but I assume the slip yoke should wear first. Correct? Additionally, slip yoke eliminator (question below)? Also, I have found some 3/4 ton axles, if they're 4.11's I want them, they are out of a mid 80s sub. Would'nt they likely be 3.73s? What is an easy way to tell without opening them up? Thanks. The following is from my introduction with other questions.

"I don't know where I've been all this time, but I am sure glad to have found this site.

Well, it's time. My Big Blue needs some love and I've been out of the hardcore 4x4 world for a few years now and am in need of some guidence.

Big Blue is a 90 K5 that is almost all stock, except for new springs all around and some 33's under it. The reason I found this site is, I am looking for a new output shaft (np241c) if I remember correctly. Plus, I was wondering what the real life pros and cons of a slip yoke eliminator are? I am not ruling out a total change out of the tcase, but as always I must consider the cost.

My wife says I need to figure out what it will take to change out the axles to something stronger. Then I said, OK! What year(s) of 1 ton axles will swap in "easily"?:D

Thanks. Glad to be part of this."
 
Welcome to the site.

To check a gear ratio, you're always better off pulling the cover and looking at the stamping on the ring gear directly. The last set of digits will give you the tooth count for the ring and for the pinion, and with that you can calculate the ratio.

There's no way to evaluate the condition of the axle without pulling the covers anyway, so just do it. If they're filled with milky-white fluid or mud (or maybe no fluid) it would be good to know that BEFORE you pay for them and drag them home.



:usaflag:
 
mntbound said:
Plus, I was wondering what the real life pros and cons of a slip yoke eliminator are?
Click to expand...
Welcome to the site bro! To answer your slip yoke question in three words
1- Strength
2-Lubrication
3-Better drive line angles

All pros.
The only con is you gotta pay for the shaft.
 
I usually look for the rpo codes in the glovebox.
 
Thanks guys!

Thank you for the replies. So 2 things still on my mind (well more then that). Anyway, back to the slip yoke. I would still have to get a new output shaft and need to rebuild/lengthen and instal a slip in the drive shaft, right?$?$?

Next, Will the axles from a late 80s sub just bolt under the K5 easily? Oh and is there a stamp on the outside of the housing of these axles that will will tell you what's inside. I have to travel a little and time will be at a premium.

Thanks!
 
80' 427 said:
Do this ^
Click to expand...
Yeah that works fine as long as there hasnt been any gear change by the PO's. just open up the housing and take a peek. You need oil bucket to catch oil, 9/16 socket/rachet, flat head screw driver to pry cover off, and a jack/stand. 10 min tops. Then you know for sure. What if there is milky mud in em or gear damage? The glove box info dosent tell you that kinda stuff.
 
I am not going to disagree but seriously when going to look at a rusty stock suburban or 3/4 thats 99% stock otherwise what is the chances of it having a gear swap?
 
First is has the vin on it. Second most 4x4s I have seen remain the same unless fully modified. I am just saying its a easy way to see. I would be more worried about if its a 14ff or a 14sf.
 
Agreed but by the time you look at the gbox then get the vin number then find the vin on the axle scrape and clean so you can read it you could have already have the diff cover off. Plus you can visually inspect the internals. Either way works, but only one is a 100% sure thing.
 
Around here you can't throw a dead cat without hitting some old rusted out 3/4 ton. Rarely if ever does a farmer regear. Usually your looking at it to decide to even talk to the owner. Being that 4.56s are so rare thats what I look for.
 
When I got my k5, I was new to 4x4's- and nobody around me had one. My mistake. The P.O (the cheap SOB) went to the junk yard to get a new rear for his truck. Except that the rear was 3.08- the front was 3.73. You can imagine the issue of trying to drive this thing right? the scuffing noises I heard- he told me they were NORMAL.

Anyways, never trust the P.O. They may or may not even know what they have. They may not be the original owner. turn the drive shafts, or pop the case open.

4.10's are possible on the 3/4 ton axles. They are not "rare" but not "always common". 4.56's are rare. CUCV's are the most common source, though in some rare instances, I have heard of some people finding them elsewhere. (bread trucks... pvans,e tc).
 
Pookster said:
When I got my k5, I was new to 4x4's- and nobody around me had one. My mistake. The P.O (the cheap SOB) went to the junk yard to get a new rear for his truck. Except that the rear was 3.08- the front was 3.73. You can imagine the issue of trying to drive this thing right? the scuffing noises I heard- he told me they were NORMAL.
Click to expand...
OMG, we must have had the same previous owner. My 74 was like that. I only pulled the back cover and found out it 3.08s. I was disappointed and didn't pull the front. For the longest time my blazer would act strange at the dunes. When I figured it out, I swapped the rear to match the front. That was just one of many of a long list of bad work the P.O did to my blazer.
 
Welcome to the site. Open the doors and start throwing money in. That is what happens being a regular reader here.

Do the SYE. It installs a new output shaft, flange, seal and yoke.Yes a new drive shaft is needed. Make sure you have a 241 first. 208 won't work. Do the axle swap first so you only build the shaft once.
 
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