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NEW Ujoint Squeaks?

roberts1974

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I decided to replace the rear ujoint on my 1994 GMC 1500 last night. It took a little work getting two caps free, but other than that it was not bad. I put the new one in and didn't have any trouble setting the caps on to get the clips in, so I don't think I had a bearing drop. I got it back in and to it for a drive and I hear a little squeak at low speed 10-15 mph. I don't here anything when I go faster or under when I speed up. If I give it more gas at a stop light to move fast, I don't get the noise. I was wondering if it chould be the the seals on the cap, or if the ears on the shaft might be a little bent causing the ujoint to bind a little. The ujoint was a bit stiff when I got it installed, but I could still move it by hand, and it was smooth. Any ideas would be great.
 
Is it greasable?? If so did you grease it?

Did you have the squeak before?? Did you check the u-joint at the t-case output?
 
I would replace the u-joint on the opposite end of the driveshaft. A squeal is almost always a u-joint and even though you may have "checked" the other u-joint sometimes you just can't tell until you take it apart and find the joint dry as a fart.
 
All the other ujoints are tight and I greased them the other day. The only one that had any play was the rear one. Thats why I replaced it. I talked to one of my mechanic friends and he suggested that I tap the joint form each direction just in case the caps were pressed on too tight. I went with a maintance free one on the end because you can't get to the darn grease zerk when you have it all together. I bought the heavy duty one from auto zone for $15
 
I change u-joints at work all the time and like i said just because you inspected it and didn't find any movement doesn't mean that it isn't dry. Even though you may have greased it the damage is already done to the cross if it ran dry.
 
I would replace the u-joint on the opposite end of the driveshaft. A squeal is almost always a u-joint and even though you may have "checked" the other u-joint sometimes you just can't tell until you take it apart and find the joint dry as a fart.

Scott, didn't your read the thred about "Never Trust a Fart":haha: When I broke my last joint at the top of my rear shaft I also heard the squeak to but the joint seemed all tight and good too until about 18 hours later it blew apart and took the ears of the shafts slip yolk.

All the other ujoints are tight and I greased them the other day. The only one that had any play was the rear one. Thats why I replaced it. I talked to one of my mechanic friends and he suggested that I tap the joint form each direction just in case the caps were pressed on too tight. I went with a maintance free one on the end because you can't get to the darn grease zerk when you have it all together. I bought the heavy duty one from auto zone for $15

Not sure if necessary but when I have installed the non greasable joints I still take all the caps off and fill as much grease in the caps as possible. Seems like they don't put enough in them and is good piece/peace of mind.
 
Scott, didn't your read the thred about "Never Trust a Fart":haha: When I broke my last joint at the top of my rear shaft I also heard the squeak to but the joint seemed all tight and good too until about 18 hours later it blew apart and took the ears of the shafts slip yolk.



Not sure if necessary but when I have installed the non greasable joints I still take all the caps off and fill as much grease in the caps as possible. Seems like they don't put enough in them and is good piece/peace of mind.

I don't trust farts anymore these days. :D

I have just done enough u-joints in the last 23 years to know that you cannot 100% be sure it's good just be "feel". I have taken MANY apart that felt good just to find them completely dry and rusted inside.
 
I drove the truck this afternoon, and I don't here the noise anymore. When I have some time I will go ahead and replace the others. I thank all of you for your insight.
 

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