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New user with his first problem

8

84M1031

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Jan 10, 2002
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PT. Pleasant New Jeresy
Hi, everyone I am Mike and new to ck5. I am running into my first real problems with my cucv. It has new batteries, glow plugs and the alternators and starter were just checked out and they were all good. Cranks over, but it STILL doesn't start!!! What am I missing here??? I am stumped. I would like to do it my self so I don't need to take it to a diesel mechanic. Any help would be very appreciated.

Thanks a lot!!!
Mike

One last thing were can I get the wrench to remove the pump? I was told it is some kind of special tool. Anybody on here know some spots to wheel in south jersey?
 
does the wait light go on? my cucv had a bad relay once and the wait light would go on for a long time but the glow plugs weren't really getting juice, so it wouldnt turn over very easily.
 
Is smoke coming out of the tail pipe? If not you might not be getting any fuel. Crack an injector line and see if fuel comes out. Might have a bad lift pump. If this doesnt help diesel dan will have more suggestions im sure. Hope this helps!

1984 GMC Jimmy 379 diesel, 700R4, 3.73s, 31x10.50 x 15
 
should be a 1/2 or 9/16 you are checking the one on the side of the engine arent you?

1984 GMC Jimmy 379 diesel, 700R4, 3.73s, 31x10.50 x 15
 
Nice, is it a contact truck or just the bare chassis? The Cucv isn't that hard to check. First can you hear the GP relay click on/off. When cold the "wait" light will go out a little later you should hear the relay click and see your voltage come back up (GP off). Open the hood and connect a volt meter to the relay power lugs. On the input side you will see 24V with the GP off which should drop to almost 12V when the GP cycle on. On the switched side of the relay is should read 0 volts off then close to 12V when the GP cycle on. If you're getting power but the voltage is not dropping from 24V to 12V when it cycles the glow plugs are DEAD! The CUCV achille's heal is the resistors that work in conjunction with the GP draw. If one glow plug dies ;the other see more voltage 13-14V, then another will drop-out and you get more (15-16V) then more die, more volts, and you're done. The resistors are mounted behind the air cleaner, on the firewall. The usual order of failure for CUCV from worst to least likely: Glow Plugs, relay, controller card (mounted under dash on pedal mount), temp switch, resistors, fuseable link, wiring. If your solenoid is being turned on/off then you card is bad. Pull is out of the (black) holder and see if it looks burnt, it may be the old style.

Gotta Go.

Real trucks don't have spark plugs!
 
Yea, dieseldan it is a contact with a 205 and a large belt to run the alternator in the back body. Alternator has eight hours on it. What is the alternator worth? I was thinking of selling it to help out with my project. I have three siting around anyway. The truck it self has 23,000 on it no rust has a lot of dents and the front fender took a good shot. Anyway, as far as I know the 1008 is almost the same I found one for 38 it has 52,000 on it I'm not sure it is worth it. I paid less for my 1031. Just wondering what you think. I have one more 1031 that I am taking the axles and putting them in my blazer. is this a bolt up or not? One last thing what is the difference between CUCV 6.2 and the civilian c and j code? Thank for your replys.

Mike

I need to know where I can get the wrench to remove the injection pump. Thanks
 
Cool beans! . I've still got six CUCV Contact Trucks in my motor pool (the HMMWV versions are "on their way"). I don't know how much the generator would be worth, not real sure of the output either, I'ld have to look. I know it will power a Miller CC/Cv welder but it's not smooth enough power to run our plasma cutter. I was never crazy about the generator PTO anyway. Now a PTO operated air compressor, THAT would be useful! But alas, Uncle Sam has yet to discover air tools!

Two big differences between the M1008 and the M1031: the transfer case NP205 instead of the Np208 & the M1031 has a limited slip in the FRONT axle (in addition to the No-Slip rear locker). One ton axles have spring perches in different spot (from K5 - 3/4tons) so they would have to be relocated. The only difference between LD (c code) and HD (J code) engines is the EGR/intake manifold.

If my previous post was alittle confusing, it was cause running late for work.

Real trucks don't have spark plugs!
 
Mine has an electric air compressor with tanks. So 1008 is locked front and rear? 1031 is only locked in the rear? Can I just weld the gears? I was told all cucvs were locked, but not the 1009. I was thinking of useing the pto to run an old winch form a M35. What do you think of that? I also did what you said the relay and card are now new. Still did not start. So I am getting new GP. What kind should I buy anyway? The gp in there now are only a few weeks old. Would you know where I can get the wrench to gemove the injection pump? I will buy it from you if you have one. Just wondering I am thinking about going in to service. What is it like? Thanks for your help dieseldan.

Mike
 
Ya, they all had the little compressors. Not really big enough for doing REAL repair work (like running a 1" impact). No, ONLY the M1031 (and some M1028 models) had the limited slip in front, everthing else was open up front. The M1009 (K5) had the dreaded Gov-Loc and 10bolts Fr & Rr, but I only know of one the blew-up (and I blame the operator).

The M35 winch would be interesting. Pretty big & heavy, might want to mount it mid-ship or rear.

So what's happening with the Glow Plugs? Are you getting voltage to the (firewall) relay? How much? How much when it cycles (ON)? CUCV glow plugs are unique (to CUCV's) 13G (I think). They are NOT state of the art plugs (like Positive Temperature Control plugs). BIG QUESTION: Are you going to change the 12V/24V system? The only things that are 24V are the starter, the slave recepticle (for jump starting), the glow plugs, and the radio power.

Are you looking at active Army or reserve?

Real trucks don't have spark plugs!
 
COULD I JUST HAVE IT WELDED TO LOCK IT UP? I WAS GOING TO PUT THE WINCH IN BACK OF THE CAB IN THE BED IF I CAN FIND A WAY TO RUN IT OF THE PTO. DAN I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT THIS STUFF!!!!! WHAT I DID WAS I TURNED THE KEY AND PUT IT ON THE LUGS OF THE TOP AND BOTTOM OF THR RELAY. WHAT I GOT WAS 24-25 VOLTS AND THEN IT DROPES TO ZERO???? WHAT AM I DOING WRONG. HOW IN THE HECK CAN IT GO TO ZERO?

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP DAN!!
 
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