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New yoke ?'s

tyler__820

1/2 ton status
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Aug 1, 2008
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Location
St. Helens Oregon
So on my last outing i broke the yoke on my frontend and need to replace it. My question is what should i get, i mean there are so many options. Can some one explain the diffrent options to me, pros and cons?:bow:
 
Stock yoke for all the GM front ends was the 1310 which is a puny yoke. Next step up is the 1350, wider and larger cups. Up from that is the 1410 which uses the same cup size as the 1350, but the yoke itself is wider. It's a good choice up front because it will run and steeper angles than the 1350 will. i got mine from Northwest Fab, modified to run U-bolt retainers instead of the straps.
 
Ok, I was looking at various sites, I see ORD has them, NWF, yukon even has a package deal for like 125 i belive. Also what is the stock 14 bolt yoke?
 
Keep in mind that if you change the Yoke on the axle you'll also need to buy a new slip Yoke for the driveshaft to match the new size Yoke for the axle. Being a front driveline it isn't nearly as critical to have the shaft rebalanced after swapping the slip Yoke BUT you could end up with some bives at higher speeds IF you're running 4hi at higher speeds.
 
Keep in mind that if you change the Yoke on the axle you'll also need to buy a new slip Yoke for the driveshaft to match the new size Yoke for the axle. Being a front driveline it isn't nearly as critical to have the shaft rebalanced after swapping the slip Yoke BUT you could end up with some bives at higher speeds IF you're running 4hi at higher speeds.
Good thing for me when i broke, it took out the front yoke and slip yoke at the same time. So what you guys say is just go with the 1410 yoke and u joint?
 
I'd go with the 1410 yoke for the diff, and have the driveline repaired using a 1410 slip section. Add a Spicer U-joint and call it good. Your weak point will just have moved somewhere else.
 
Where would i get a 1410 slip section? I guess my weak point would be the hubs or the cv at the output of the transfer case then.
 

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