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Newb here~ Would this setup work on my Jimmy

C

chevy4x4power

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These tend to have saggy butts anyway. A 4" rear lift and 6" front will end terribly unless you compensate in the rear somehow. If you're gonna cut, then you can probably get by with just a 4" lift. A 4" lift is simpler and helps driveline angles. These short wheelbases cost big money for driveshafts whith a lot of lift. If you go big, you'll need a hi-angle CV rear and a longer slip in the front. With my 4"/shackle flip, I use stock front and have a CV rear, but many get away with stock rear d-shaft.

Also, Alcan/ORD/Tuff Country are the recommended brands around here for good riding/flexing springs.
 
rebelgregory said:
These tend to have saggy butts anyway. A 4" rear lift and 6" front will end terribly unless you compensate in the rear somehow. If you're gonna cut, then you can probably get by with just a 4" lift. A 4" lift is simpler and helps driveline angles. These short wheelbases cost big money for driveshafts whith a lot of lift. If you go big, you'll need a hi-angle CV rear and a longer slip in the front. With my 4"/shackle flip, I use stock front and have a CV rear, but many get away with stock rear d-shaft.

Also, Alcan/ORD/Tuff Country are the recommended brands around here for good riding/flexing springs.
Click to expand...

What about a zero rate (think thats what there called) in addition to the shackle flip? How much extra would it cost extra to do the 6 inch lift? I've been reading that a driveshaft extension is sometimes in order? But from what i've read that is only 100~ bucks?

Oh and if it makes a difference, mines a 78
 
extending the driveshaft is the cheap part. LIke he was saying, you may need a whole new shaft with a cv joint at the top to fix the drastic angle of the lift. A four inch lift you have better chances of not needing that.

I dont think an ez inch would make it level, you need at least 6 inches in the back possibly an inch or two more. If i were you, i would either just do 4 inch springs in the front and a shackle flip and ez inch in back, or if you want 6 inch lift, then i would get the 6" springs up front and you will need to get like 2" springs in the back, along with a shackle flip.
 
If you plan on keeping it cheap, it'll be 4" and under. 4" and up, is when you have to start changing out a lot of other things. Don't forget longer brake lines, shocks, and steering. 6" you'll need a rear CV style shaft, that's a few hundred, the front will need to be extended.

Whatever you do, go with a reputable place, get everything, including new ubolts and nuts.

You're gunna run 38/39 on 1/2 tons and stock gears ?



I think you'd be happy with 4" and fender trimming. We have a pics thread for lifts/tires/clearance/fender trimming, etc. You can kinda see what the end result would be.
 
chevy4x4power said:
What about a zero rate (think thats what there called) in addition to the shackle flip? How much extra would it cost extra to do the 6 inch lift? I've been reading that a driveshaft extension is sometimes in order? But from what i've read that is only 100~ bucks?

Oh and if it makes a difference, mines a 78
Click to expand...

if you really want 6" out back, you can do the flip, zero rate and 6" shackles.. BUT that kinda put's you at your limit with add-on's and it still may be slightly saggy compared to a solid 6" up front due to reusing your springs..

of course, if that became an issue, you could always ditch the zero rate and longer shackles down the road in favor of a 2" or 3" lift spring to run with the flip..
 
How much does rear cv shaft cost and where do you get them made??

Im just going to be using this jimmy for dirt roads and some mud holes, no rock climbing or anything extreme like that.

Also, how is it that some people get away with just extending the driveshatfs with a 6 inch lift, or not extending them at all?
 
lots of driveshaft shops for 4x4s that will make you a CV shaft. A popular one around here is Tom Wood's: http://www.4xshaft.com/

it comes down to if you want your driveline angles correct. With a 6" lift, most of the time if it will be driven at higher speeds you will want a cv shaft so that you arent replacing u-joints all the time.

it also depends on how you lift your truck, if you do a body life, you arent changing the suspension/driveshaft angles. So thats why some people get away without playing with it.
 
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