Newb needs help with brake-lines/ prop valve.

[78-K5]

So I have a leak from the prop valve, ordered a new one and have it sitting in the garage. Also ordered extended lines from ORD to include lines for the rear disc (previous owner did the conversion) since I'm installing a 4" RC lift.

Any particular order I should go in regards to pulling lines/ prop valve? I've replaced lines before but never the prop valve.

Do I just disconnect everything and let fluid run? Any tricks to prevent the MC from running empty or does it even matter since I'm changing out the prop valve?

Thanks everyone! It's my project this weekend!

 

[76zimmer]

you could disconnect the m/c line to the prop valve and plug it to keep the m/c from emptying, the rest I wouldn't worry about draining, because you'll have to completely bleed the whole system anyway.
And personally I would get rid of the prop valve. PITA

 

[78-K5]

Yeah I've heard of people having problems with them, ie. air trapped inside 'em or getting them to "reset". Hopefully I'm not one of those (knocks on wood). Like I said, I've replaced all four lines (an old subaru) before... never this much though.

Anyone have some helpful tips?

Oh yeah, how do our rotors mount on these trucks? My wife's accord has two phillips screws that always round out and require heat, hammering, cursing, and usually... drilling and tapping.

 

[Deuling]

I always just roll them onto the dirt, start tearing lines out, then worry about the air in the lines when im bleeding them at the end, just make sure all your bleeder screws on all 4 brakes can be turned out and work, heck just buy 4 new ones if they come out, super cheap and neverseize them. My method hasnt failed me yet lol,

 

[78-K5]

I always just roll them onto the dirt, start tearing lines out, then worry about the air in the lines when im bleeding them at the end, just make sure all your bleeder screws on all 4 brakes can be turned out and work, heck just buy 4 new ones if they come out, super cheap and neverseize them. My method hasnt failed me yet lol,

Sounds good. I bought "reman" front calipers just because. But I'll get some valves for the rear calipers.

Truck started pulling really bad to the left one day. Only leak I can find is from the prop valve. Hopefully the fittings are in good enough shape to go into the NEW prop valve. With my luck, they won't.

You guys know if I should put anything on the threads on the hardline fittings before threading them into the new prop valve?

 

[76zimmer]

Put just a little on the threads of each line nut, and if you can pull the line nut back up the line a little, then put some antisieze on the line, so the line and nut don't rust together, that might be a help in the future, also were all your line clips on the frame are, put a dab on them too, to keep corrosion at rest.

 

[Deuling]

Hey man you say you got a pull?? I just might have your fix, not necesarily it but it happened to me, and the cheapest fix. Look at your front calipers, see the little rubber hose that runs off of them? Unhook it from the caliper and where it runs into the metal line. Buy a new one, (Do both sides). Those things after time will get gummed up and act as a one way check valve, letting brake fluid go to the calipers, but not letting all of it back into the system. It happened to me and come to find out after doing all my breaks, it was those stupid $6 rubber lines lol.

SOme old guy i was talking to said it, and I thought no way that could be it, but they were cheap so i did it and fixed it. This was on my 93 GMC 2500 Vandura, but principle is the same.

P.S. I hate break lines lol, especially here in MI where they are always rusting out and bleeder screws always bust off, and you have to break the line somewhere just to bleed the line, which never really works that great lol. Break lines are one of the first things I do when buying a vehicle, cuz thats the worst feeling ever when your foot goes to the floor.....

 

[78-K5]

I'm replacing the rubber lines with stainless from ORD. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Deuling]

I'm replacing the rubber lines with stainless from ORD. Thanks for the tip!

No prob man, its something that doesnt really seem like it would make a difference but it solved my problems in about ten min and $15.

 

[78-K5]

I'm curious to see if it will improve performance at all. I replaced the lines on my Subaru WRX with stainless lines and it was a HUUUUGE difference! I'm not expecting much with this truck though.

 

[78-K5]

Update:

Well I got the new front rotors installed, re-lubed the hubs, installed new ORD lines on 4 calipers, and replaced the prop valve.

That prop valve can be a real task with 5 hard lines going into it, it's tough getting them all to line up on re-installation. Also, I had a scare on the pass caliper hardline fitting. I thought I was gonna strip it with the cheap flare nut wrench I had. Went out and bought a craftsman wrench and it took it right off!

Only downside is the local parts store sold me one wrong caliper. It was about 10mm too narrow. So that one caliper is what's holding me up from finishing it.

Once i get the new caliper tomorrow, I can bleed the system and cross my fingers it all goes well!

 

[Deuling]

I'm curious to see if it will improve performance at all. I replaced the lines on my Subaru WRX with stainless lines and it was a HUUUUGE difference! I'm not expecting much with this truck though.

Well i would think that on an old truck like that if they are the stock lines then it would help alot i think. Who knows