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Newbie Brake Bleeder

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by stevos67k20, Oct 27, 2006.

  1. stevos67k20

    stevos67k20 1/2 ton status

    Sep 29, 2005
    Likes Received:
    hello fello chevy lovers,
    i just installed a hydroboost and new rear brake lines form the MC to my new disk brakes. any ways: i tried to "BENCH BLEED" by brakes last night with them installed i disconnected the lines to the MC, i guess its to get the air out of the master cylinder. it didnt work. it just popped air out and a little fluid here and there. the only time it worked was when i let it sit till it dripped out on it own, then i got a steady stream out of both ports when i pressed the pedal. is this right?

    ok so my brake lines to the rear are full of air cuz i just put them in...now what??do i bleed as normal? is there are procedure i have to do? i bled my old brakes with my dad but this is all new to me cuz there is so much air now. should i just open one bleeder at a time and pump till fluid comes out?

    i really hope my MC is not ruined, cuz that would make me kick my truck really hard and i dont want to do that. thanks everyone.
    -Steve K :truck: :grind: :hack:
  2. hunterguy86

    hunterguy86 1/2 ton status

    Jan 10, 2005
    Likes Received:
    San Marcos, Texas
    When I bleed the breaks, I start at the wheel the furthest from the master cylinder, (rear passenger) I have an assisstant pump the peddal 3 times then hold it to the floor. I then crack the bleeder screw. You should hear air come out or see fluid. Then close the screw. Repeat this process until you get a good steady stream of fluid out of the bleeder screw. Then move to the next wheel(driver rear) and repeat. Then move to the next (passenger front) then the last(Driver front) and repeat. Be sure to check the level of fluid in the master cyclinder after each wheel if not more. You dont want that thing to get empty or you will have to start over.
  3. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

    Jul 24, 2003
    Likes Received:
    "Bench Bleeding" the master cyl...

    To properly bench bleed a master cylinder,the best way is to use the rubber hoses and plastic fittings usually supplied with the rebuilt or new master cyl..

    You have to submerge both hoses from the ports in the master back into the resivouirs(full of brake fluid of course!)--a clippy clothes pin will keep them from jumping out when you pump the pedal or use a screwdriver to push the piston in the master in if doing it in a vise on the bench (I usually just bolt it to the booster and pump the brake pedal slowly 5-10 times)..in most cases if the master is bled correctly,you can just hook the brake lines back up and your ready to roll--if they still need bleeding,do it as suggested above,starting at the furthest wheel away from the master,and work your way forward..

    I'll be doing this soon..my 82 K20 has only front brakes,thanks to the rear seal in the master cylinder leaking,letting the rear chamber run dry in a few days..:doah: ..I need new draglink ends too,before I hit something ,or get charged with DWI,(I dont drink and drive,but it sure looks like I do!)..its all over the road!..always something to drain your wallet!..:(


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