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Newbie needs some lift advice

90_K5 Blazer

90_K5 Blazer

1/2 ton status
Joined
Apr 13, 2007
Posts
114
Reaction score
1
Location
Lake Orion, Michigan
Hey guys,

First off please don't slam me, I've tried searching the forums the best I could...

1) Anyway, i've decided to go with a 4 inch tuff country lift which would include new front leafs and bushings, and rear blocks. I've got the shocks covered. Is this a decent reliable set up? I do take it on the highway almost everyday.

2) Does a 4 inch lift require any drive shaft changes/u-joint to cv conversion?

Also, I would like to go with 33's but my truck came stock with only 3.08 gears :doah: which are ok now with the 31's and are nice because of the sm465 trans without overdrive, but i'm not sure how 33's will take it. I'm in college and don't have alot of money, so any gear changes are kinda low on the list at the moment. Will I be alright for your basic wheeling/will i even notice it? ( theres no rock crawling in MI :wink1: )

Thanks guys, I appreaciate you puttin up with my stupid questions
 
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Does a 4 inch lift require any drive shaft changes/u-joint to cv conversion?
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To the Best of my knowlage, NO

I would like to go with 33's but my truck came stock with only 3.08 gears :doah: which are ok now with the 31's and are nice because of the sm465 trans without overdrive, but i'm not sure how 33's will take it.
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I Think it should be fine since you got a 4 speed
 
First there should be no changes to driveline's or u-joints on a 4 inch lift.

Second - I run 3.08's with 33's, although the power isn't there at the low end, with the super low granny on the 465, you should be in better shape than I am.

Keep in mind that many of these Blazers can fit 33's with no lift. The blocks are OK, but you should really look at getting full spring lift to avoid saggy butt syndrome.
 
lectric80 said:
Second - I run 3.08's with 33's, although the power isn't there at the low end, with the super low granny on the 465, you should be in better shape than I am.
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How bad is yours? Mine has the same set up and was thinking about 3.73...once I get to drive it though I may change my mind :haha:
 
Dafey said:
How bad is yours? Mine has the same set up and was thinking about 3.73...once I get to drive it though I may change my mind :haha:
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I hate mine, it is a real dog getting onto the freeway or when I am towing. I plan on going to 3.73 or 4.10 to help with this issue. It is great on the freeway, although I still only average 10 MPG.
 
if you get that lift make sure you get new U-bolts all the around. a raised steering arm is a good idea also.

If it were my truck I would gear it to 4.10's with a posi or locker in the rear first. thats the most expensive thing other then wheels and tires. if you lift it first because it cheap, then scrounge up the money for tires you will be putting a lot of strain on the engine.

I lifted mine 6" and ran it for 3 months, it looked dumb. then finally bought some used 35's. it looked ok but was a dog. I blew the motor up about 6 months later. :doah:

if you work it right you could find some 3/4 ton axles with 4.10 gears in a junkyard cheap. I bought a set with 4.56 gears and both driveshafts and a np205 t-case for $300, then sold the 205 for $200. take your time rebuilding them as money comes in. it would cost less then regearing the axles you have and they would be stronger.

This site is a great place for newbies, you won't get bashed unless you are stubborn and do unsafe things and then tell everyone about it as if you are cool.
 
This is good advice, mine is running 33's with 3.08's and it is a dog. The wear and tear on the trans is a big worry. I plan on lifting and adding new axles at the same time, so it will be a while. I buy my parts as I can afford them, then I will do one weekend to attach everything. Nothing will get added until I have everything to do it once and do it right.
 
I have a 32" tires and 4:10s w/ loc rite rear locker. Ive got a 700r and a 305cid. If I go bigger tires, ill wish I went with 4:33s etc. I can run 65mph @ 2200rpm and it has pretty good low end.
 
Hey thanks for all your help/tips.
I'm glad to know I won't need any length on the drive shafts or anything like that! So you would recomend a total leaf sprink kit or leaf front with new shackles in the rear? Is there and pros/cons of a schackle flip versus new spring?
I am a decent mechanic, and good at welding, so adding new schakles would't be an issue. (I hope!) Yah, I love the 4 speed, ( I'm a manual trans addict ) and it's granny gear is great, I just wish it was sychronized. :(
 
As far as 3:08's with my 31's go Dafey, they are ok. I would never put them in my car for drag racing, but with pedal all the way to the floor, I can easily reach 60 on most highway on ramps. It's nothing to right home about, but it's ok. Although, I do get 19 mpg going up north to my cabin @ 70 mph! It's all a trade off if you don't have an overdrive trans!
 
gmc4cw said:
if you get that lift make sure you get new U-bolts all the around. a raised steering arm is a good idea also.

If it were my truck I would gear it to 4.10's with a posi or locker in the rear first. thats the most expensive thing other then wheels and tires. if you lift it first because it cheap, then scrounge up the money for tires you will be putting a lot of strain on the engine.

I lifted mine 6" and ran it for 3 months, it looked dumb. then finally bought some used 35's. it looked ok but was a dog. I blew the motor up about 6 months later. :doah:

if you work it right you could find some 3/4 ton axles with 4.10 gears in a junkyard cheap. I bought a set with 4.56 gears and both driveshafts and a np205 t-case for $300, then sold the 205 for $200. take your time rebuilding them as money comes in. it would cost less then regearing the axles you have and they would be stronger.

This site is a great place for newbies, you won't get bashed unless you are stubborn and do unsafe things and then tell everyone about it as if you are cool.
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Yah I would love to find even some cucv axles!
I believe the kit i was looking at included new u-bolts and steering arm - great thing to look for thanks!
I think I may keep it stock for just this winter through - less hassle of a breakdown in the snow! I do have a posi rearend now, and i would LOVE a locking front - but now i'm just dreaming! : )

I'm glad to know i'm not going to be hated upon, everyone hear has just seemed super nice and helpfull- that's rare to find on car forums
 
90_K5 Blazer said:
As far as 3:08's with my 31's go Dafey, they are ok. I would never put them in my car for drag racing, but with pedal all the way to the floor, I can easily reach 60 on most highway on ramps. It's nothing to right home about, but it's ok. Although, I do get 19 mpg going up north to my cabin @ 70 mph! It's all a trade off if you don't have an overdrive trans!
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Well I must not have 3.08 then....because I can out run my 91 s10 blazer with out flooring it . When [ if ever... ] I get it back from the shop I`ll have to jack it up and rotate the wheel and count the driveshaft rotations.

There`s so much stuff that the P.O.`s have changed I cant just walk into the parts store and go by the year and model. Like the motor , it came with a 400/th400 , now its got a 350/th350.:rolleyes:
 
You will be ok with 33's and 3.08's. trust me....i drove mine with 40's and 3.08's. granted i had a 454 in it but hey it still sucked. i agree with everyone else here. Do stuff as you get the money but dont half a$$ it to get it done faster. patience is key my young padjuan or however u spell it. im not a star wars geek.
 
When I installed my 4" tuff country lift I got a bad vibration around 55 mph and around about 70 mph. Thought it was the U-joints, so I changed those but the vibration was still there. I ended up having to drop my T-case about 1" to get rid of the vibration. Also, the raised steering arm they included with the kit was no good for me. I had pretty bad bump steer until I eventually put the stock steering arm back on and the used a drop pitman arm (Superlift from Summit) which fixed the problem completely. I'm not saying you're going to have these problems but it's something to look out for.

-Wes
 
90_K5 Blazer,If you wanna do 33's you can use a 2.5 inch lift.thats what i got on my truck.

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I also have the 4" TC front lift with 6" in the rear on 33's with 3.08's. If you have a decent motor, it's fine. Mines only a 327 and I'm fine on the freeway and light wheeling.

After the lift, I did have a slight driveline "hum" on the freeway so I put a CV shaft in just in case. It seemed to clear up the noise. One thing to be aware of is with a 4" lift all around, the back end may sag an inch or two. You may think about using 5" in the rear to make up for it. (or 3" in the front)

Although with a 5-speed and a doubler going in next week, I may now have to do something about the open rearend. :doah: :D
 
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