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Newbie question on used 350

thebluemax

thebluemax

1/2 ton status
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Hutto,TX
A friend of mine has a 350 bored .30 over that he's selling for 500. It's missing the original heads but he has a set that he'll throw in with the engine. He was gonna use it in his truck but found a 383 stroker. Anything I should look at it particular on this engine? I'm kinda wary of buying a used engine but it was rebuild and never installed or barely run from what I understand.
 
Since the heads are off I would check the cylinder walls for scoring, if it's rebuilt without being run they should have a nice honed crosshatch pattern on them. I'd also take a straight edge to check the decks for flatness. The only way to really find out whether it's good or not is a compression test after the heads are on or firing it up.

You could also ask to see some paperwork from parts and labor during the rebuild to get a solid timeline as to when it was rebuilt and to what extent.

(I'm continuing to think of things haha) Might also want to turn the engine to see if anything is seized or too tight, it should be fairly smooth if it's been rebuilt recently.

You might also pm scott (4X4high), he builds engines for a living so he can give much better advice...
 
thebluemax said:
A friend of mine has a 350 bored .30 over that he's selling for 500. It's missing the original heads but he has a set that he'll throw in with the engine. He was gonna use it in his truck but found a 383 stroker. Anything I should look at it particular on this engine? I'm kinda wary of buying a used engine but it was rebuild and never installed or barely run from what I understand.
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how good of a friend is he? Did he buy it this way or have the work done?
 
Yes, i do build engines for a living and i have seen alot over the past 22 years.

Unless he can give you legit documentation on the engine work consider it nothing more than a core engine. There are far too many people who give it a mexican rebuild (rattle can in color of choice) and call it rebuilt. :D


If this guy has nothing to hide he will show you the paperwork. If he can't produce any paperwork or comes up with a bunch of different excuses run fast.
 
The guy works with my friend and apparently he bought it rebuilt already. The guy races trucks , I've never talked to him, he's just a dude who works with a good friend of mine. I've got a 350 out of 91 chevy one ton that would only cost 740 to rebuild versus that 350 that my friends co worker has that he wants 500 for. So I figure I'd be better off with an engine I know the history on and just get it rebuilt.
 
I mean the guy whose truck it came out of was a rancher/farmer, he pulled trailers, drove it around the farm , used the truck for what a truck is for. But he changed the oil, did the maintenance on time everytime, took care of the truck and it took care of him. I called around and got a quote of $740 to machine the block, grind the crank, 3 angle valve job, new cam, new pistons/rings, new oil pump, new gasket set, resurface..etc...Seems pretty reasonable to me. All I got to do is drop the engine off and they're gonna tear it down, machine,put it back together, and I pick it up for $740 unless it needs more work.
 
Buyer Beware

If you do buy it, check the bore too. I bought a "0.030" over once at a swap meet that was actually already "0.060" over. Also, look at the oil or in the valley, make sure there is no milky color (cracked block) or metal shavings (spun bearing).
 
$2200? Just to do the machine work or is that pulling the engine,machine work, reinstalling the engine?
 
thebluemax said:
$2200? Just to do the machine work or is that pulling the engine,machine work, reinstalling the engine?
Click to expand...

That is a complete rebuild but no pulling or installing of engine. Here is the break down of the prices in my neck of the woods.

Take apart and boil clean = 200.00
Bore and hone block = 225.00
Grind crankshaft = 125.00
Pistons remove and replace = 96.00
Resize connecting rods = 120.00
Remove and replace cam bearings = 50.00
Install freeze plugs and oil galley plugs and prep all surfaces and chase bolt holes = 25.00
3 angle valve job = 200.00
Resurface heads = 100.00
Install replaceable valve guides = 80.00
Install exhuast seats (if needed) = 80.00
Bead blast and mag intake manifold (cast iron) = 40.00
Assemble complete engine and adjust valves = 400.00

So just the machine work with assembly is 1741.00 now add parts to that.
 
4X4HIGH said:
That is a complete rebuild but no pulling or installing of engine. Here is the break down of the prices in my neck of the woods.

Take apart and boil clean = 200.00
Bore and hone block = 225.00
Grind crankshaft = 125.00
Pistons remove and replace = 96.00
Resize connecting rods = 120.00
Remove and replace cam bearings = 50.00
Install freeze plugs and oil galley plugs and prep all surfaces and chase bolt holes = 25.00
3 angle valve job = 200.00
Resurface heads = 100.00
Install replaceable valve guides = 80.00
Install exhuast seats (if needed) = 80.00
Bead blast and mag intake manifold (cast iron) = 40.00
Assemble complete engine and adjust valves = 400.00

So just the machine work with assembly is 1741.00 now add parts to that.
Click to expand...


I see now why everyone is saying just buy a crate engine.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Me too. I know that prices vary all over the country but i can't build a 350 for less than $2200.00
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Holy crap :eek1: I rebuilt the engine on my old 87 and everything new it only cost me maybe $800-900. That includes starter and everything new.

I did most of the work myself but i've never paid over $1000 for a rebuild

Of course that was just .30 over and getting the crank turned. No big cam or super heads or w/e
 
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