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Newbie towing

Like @beags86 I have been rocking a 7k for a long time. Given the choice I would never recommend a 7k over a 10k yep 7k will get you by and tow usually what you need. But the points of overall less wear and tear on the trailer has been made. And it's true.

If you need a trailer and a screaming deal comes up, probably best to buy it

But given a choice always bigger. Oh and longer too. I'd get an 18' minimum
 
Like @beags86 I have been rocking a 7k for a long time. Given the choice I would never recommend a 7k over a 10k yep 7k will get you by and tow usually what you need. But the points of overall less wear and tear on the trailer has been made. And it's true.

If you need a trailer and a screaming deal comes up, probably best to buy it

But given a choice always bigger. Oh and longer too. I'd get an 18' minimum
thanks!
 
continuing with the theme of no knowledge, i've seen a bunch of random craigslist posts

https://hartford.craigslist.org/tro/d/trailer-heavy-duty/6731866055.html

https://providence.craigslist.org/tro/d/19-car-trailer/6724581454.html

I know many of them are old campers which I will not go for, but this? basis of a budget build? Trying to learn about what axles are useful etc. Realistically my budget is probably 2g, 2500 if i can save that much with a newborn.... so trying to make something happen. Feel free to say, just save more and more and dont bother. Thanks!
 
About 2.5g gets you a brand new 7k 20' trailer.

Unless your hauling skidloaders, tractors, or crewcabs all the time you should be fine with one. That'll also give you a known payload cap of around 5k with a decent safety margin. One of those could (maybe) keep you under that price, but then you never know for sure what it's rating is and may be way heavier than you need.

That big one probably weighs close to 4k by it's self. Which depending on your tow rig, doesn't leave a lot of room for payload capacity...

I my self think 10k, 20' (about $3600 new) is the way to go. But if 2500 is your budget, then I'd do new 7k, 20' all the way.

Jmho
 
those HUGE bolt pattern axles on the tripple axle = old as dirt . and tires = bias only and tall .

2nd is 14.5 tire style and lots of them axles had no brakes on them or 1 axle only . and the trailer frame looks HEAVY AS HELL .

not saying you cant use them but NOT going to be a quick flip turn around for road use hauling blazer in my opinion .
 
those HUGE bolt pattern axles on the tripple axle = old as dirt . and tires = bias only and tall .

2nd is 14.5 tire style and lots of them axles had no brakes on them or 1 axle only . and the trailer frame looks HEAVY AS HELL .

not saying you cant use them but NOT going to be a quick flip turn around for road use hauling blazer in my opinion .

My car trailer doesn't have brakes.
What a luxury that would be!!
 
some states thats not legal .

lots of states each axle has to have brakes . . atleast up to a set # then after that no brake on them .
 
those HUGE bolt pattern axles on the tripple axle = old as dirt . and tires = bias only and tall .

2nd is 14.5 tire style and lots of them axles had no brakes on them or 1 axle only . and the trailer frame looks HEAVY AS HELL .

not saying you cant use them but NOT going to be a quick flip turn around for road use hauling blazer in my opinion .
Hey, thank you, thats exactly why i posted them, i am ignorant when it comes to trailers so im learning. All my friends have 5500dollar deck overs that tilt. So, i know money gets nice stuff, i appreciate the info!
 
That's why I said it could MAYBE keep you below your budget lol.. After paint, new axles, wheels, tires, lights, and a deck, you'd be pushing the budget hard. And have a heavy azz trailer to lug around.
 
I’ve built a bunch of my own trailers too. The trailer I’m pulling now though is one I bought. It is a 10k and has drop axles which I am now sold on. This trailer does not sway at all.
 
Everyone loves to recommend the most expensive route on the forum sites :rotfl:.

There is no doubt, with full size rigs on trailers, a 10k trailer is ideal as it is "more" adequate to handle the load of our fullsizers and have some to spare, which is never a bad thing. Downside, the price tag goes up quite a bit.

I have had my 7500lb 18' flatbed for almost 5 years now. I have hauled my blazer on it all over the west, and it's never let me down. Sure I've had a few tires go out on me (which is kinda just part of the game with trailers) and I've had one bearing go out that took me 20 min to change on the side of the road (I always keep at least two sets of bearings in my truck for such occasions). Shoot, when I moved from CO to ID, I had my V3500 Crew Cab filled to the brim (both the cab and bed full) of all our junk on that trailer, and it made the ~800 trip just fine. Sure on that occasion it was overloaded, and that was the only time it's been loaded that heavy, but a 7500lb trailer can still get the job done just fine.

Plus, there is nothing stopping you from buying a 7500lb trailer and using it for your needs now, then later on as funds/time permits, you can always swap in a set of 5k axles under it to suite your needs. I look at my trailer kinda like I looked at my V3500 or my blazer, I will eventually build it to suite my needs as time/money permits. I built drive-over fenders on mine cause that's what I needed. And I will swap in 5k axles on mine cause that's what I want and it will suite me later.

All in all, don't turn away from a 7500lb trailer if it suites the immediate needs and is a pretty good deal. It can still get the job done just fine

1.jpg
 
It's hard for me to recommend a 7500lb trailer when it's over loaded with the intended purpose. The liability alone should deter you from it.
 
Losing tires and bearings is because they are maxed out...a 10k trailer is 1k more cost than a 7k trailer, to each there own...
Yes that can be one reason, low tire pressure and low quality bearings are another reason. I've experienced flat tires on my brand new 10K trailer and failed bearings when not overloaded on brand new bearings.

The flat tire I can only guess was the result of picking up something like a nail and not catching it quick enough on a long trip. I had to add air to it earlier the same day and didn't think to look for nails because I was going to be behind schedule already.

The bearing was my first time using new bearings made in China just before a long trip, I don't make that mistake any more. German, USA, or Japanese made bearings only if I can find them. However, I'm willing to bet my new 10K trailer has Chinese bearings in it.
 
Losing tires and bearings is because they are maxed out...a 10k trailer is 1k more cost than a 7k trailer, to each there own...

Not necessarily. My used 7500lb trailer was only $2000 whereas a similar used 10k trailer (at least in my area at the time) was over $5000, so it was worth it to me.

Also, bearings are a wear item. Eventually you will need to replace them. In the almost 5 years I've had the trailer, and "overloading" it to some peoples standards, I've had 1 bearing failure and that was this year. And also, most trailer tires literally just suck. My brother has a 10k triple axle flatbed that is not overloaded when he hauls it, and he still loses tires. Sure there are some other options out there, but most are crazy expensive. The reality is if you tow on a regular basis, you are going to lose a trailer tire every once in a while, and eventually you will need to replace some bearings. Simple as that.
 
St trailer tires suck butt.
Put LT tires on it. In particular 235/85r16 Yokohama geolander ht tires. That tire has been extremely successful going bald before exploding while overloaded on oilfield trailers. I would get 30k miles out of a tire. Unheard of with an st tire.
Bearing and brakes are wear items for sure but it's like buying precision ujoints or spicer. I had my 5x4.5 trailer and it was a poor towing experience. Wore out inside shoulders on the tires with garbage carlisles. I would warranty a tire every trip it seemed. I was dancing on that fine line. It towed it but it struggled.
 

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