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nimak5 Build Thread

Make sure to post pics on how you got the tailgate to work. I have thought about doing that cause my factory tailgate on the blazer (with electric window) blows. The motor keeps going out on the window and the tailgate doesn't open without taking the cover off and manually pulling the rods together. It's extremely annoying. But I have never really seen someone do a write-up on it. I will be watching.
 
I will. From what I've read, I just need to go to a junk yard and pull the mounting hardware from another C/K truck and it should all bolt on. Or LMC may have the parts. First I'm going to paint it, then worry about installing it.
 
Progress with sand paper and the old fashion rattle can...

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Here is what the latch/hinge looks like on the tailgate. Until I find the pieces I need, this will sit in the shed.

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As you mentioned, you will need the brackets from a truck. Other than that, it's a really easy swap. The threaded holes are already there to all you need to do is bolt on the brackets and put on the tailgate. Don't forget to get the bolts from the donor truck, too.
 
Thanks. Found everything I need for about $35. I'm working on arranging to pick it up, so should hopefully have it on by the weekend.
 
No plans or money for a soft top so the rear window area will just be open for now. I don't have plans on taking off the top anyways until I build a rollcage, which won't be for a while. I'll probably end up Line-xing the interior sometime in the future as a means of water/rust proofing the exposed areas. Until then I'm just making progress piece by piece as I find deals and/or can afford it.
 
Well I always manage to make something easy into a more difficult task. The tailgate came off smooth as cake. Just 8 bolts behind the bumper and 2 bolts at the tailgate cable.

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But then I realized the trunnions I got are for a 70's chevy don't fit an 80's chevy tailgate when I started to bolt everything on. Long story short, I ordered the rest of the parts I needed for $50 on LMC so I have to wait 5-7 business days without a tailgate.

Here is the picture of the wrong trunion to get:

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I had no idea there were different versions.

What was the fitment issue?
 
Basically the 73-80 trunnion is the same size (width) as the female end of an 81-87 tailgate. This picture explains:

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I have two questions for you....#1: Any updates :D

#2: If you don't mind me asking, did you have TrailWorthy Fab recenter your H1's from them, or are they just stock H1's with PVC incerts? Or are you running spacers? (seems like your backspacing looks pretty good, that's why I'm asking). I want/need beadlocks bad, and TWF's recenters with rock rings look freaking sick, but after you add all the crap like rock rings and powdercoat and PVC's, it's pretty much $1000 (give or take) to your door for just 4 of them. Is that pretty what your experience was? And is that why you didn't have them put on rock rings? Just trying to get as much info about those things as I can before purchasing some.
 
His H1s are stock. It looks like he's running a dually 60 and a 70 with spacers or 14 bolt hubs.
 
No updates, other than been driving it around town on the weekends. I am waiting on a big paycheck to line-x the bed, buy a shackle flip, new springs, ford shock towers and bilstein shocks.

I believe my wheels (4 wheels) ended up being right at $700 shipped from Trailworthy Fab with the powdercoating and pvc inserts. I was in the same boat, with a budget, so I couldn't afford spending another $120 or so on rock rings. I do plan on doing that in the future, but not until this truck is ready for abuse. I had them do the powercoating (flat black) and still haven't built up the energy to insert the pvc inserts. They are a pain to get in with brand new super swamper tires. I haven't had much of any leaks either, which was a concern. Just make sure you crank those bolts as tight as you can with the o rings in place. I had a leak at first, but just noticed the bolts weren't tightened all the way, so after tightening another round, I haven't had a leak in 6 months. Also, the guy at TWF is great and included all the o rings and everything.

As far as offset, they are stock H1's. This is where it get's expensive: I am using a Dana 60 dually front axle and a dually dana 70 rear (Dana 70HD), but swapped the rear Dana 70HD DRW hubs with a 14 bolt single rear wheel (SRW) axle's hubs. That makes the offset a perfect match with the front. Once you include the new brake lines, spring perches, gear fluid, etc. it begins to get costly. Long story, but I got the tires for free so that saved me a good $2,500.

Good luck. It takes a lot of work, but well worth it in the end. I will continue to post updates as I buy parts.
 
How did you get 42's for free!?!?! How come deals like that dont happen to me :doah:.

Thanks for the info on the h1's. I dont plan on doing anything with the axles, I was just curious cause your rims did look like stock h1's but your offset still looked pretty good, but now that makes sense with the DRW 60 and what you did with the d70.

I would like to do those TWF h1's someday, but its just not in the budget right now. I think I will have mine recentered for sure though
 
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