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No Crank, No Start, Battery Fine

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xdelirious45x

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Lyndhurst, NJ
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Went out this morning, tried to start my 88 k5 blazer, tbi, it kinda had a have crank then nothing. I tried starting it, but nothing. When I put the key to ignition on, ck eng. lite doesn't come on, niether do the oil gauge, battery gauge etc. I checked the battery it was fine. Lights work, interior lights work when i open the door. The annoying beep works when the door is open and the ignition key is put in on.
My ignition coil mounts onto the intake manifold right next to the distributor. I'm thinking its a bad connection between the distributor, ign coil, starter, battery, ecm, fuse.
I checked almost all the fuses possible, ignition, ecm 1&2, crank.
I know there is a pink wire that runs from the ignition coil to the ignition switch. But it doesn't appear to be broken circuit from what i can see.

Could this be bad wiring?

Could this be a bad starter (just purchased a new one but also installed rebuilt heads and a new distributor)?

Could this be Bad timing (Had bad timing in the past)?


Need help quick!!
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Just fiddling around somehow I got the gauges to work and the fasten seat belt light came on. However, I tried to find some codes as soon as i noticed that was on. And the ck engine light didn't come on and no codes worked. The code 12 did not even show up.

I hope it is not a bad ecm! /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
 
you should start at the simple end of the spectrum on what could be wrong, I'm betting you have a bad cable/connection somewhere, I'd pull the cables off the battery clean the batt and cables with a terminal cleaner, and really inspect the cables to make sure there's no frayed parts or semi-connected parts. Then put all that back together. I bet you'll find that inspecting all the ignition wiring and the cables will turn up something.
 
I was just gonna say, start w/ the battery cables first... especially if the lights/gauges/etc... are not working. Then I would move to the main wiring harness that brings power into the cab... w/o this working you won't have power anywhere.
 
I checked the pink ignition wires, they were all connected properly. I checked almost all the fuses again to make sure it wasn't something silly like that.

I think its either an ecm problem or a bad starter because when I tried starting it up again, the gauges didn't come on and the ck eng. light did not come on again. It normally comes on with the key put to into "on."
I also connected the pos. terminal of a battery jumper to the starter solenoid where the wire runs from the battery directly to the solenoid, and i grounded the neg. terminal of the battery jumper to my frame and the starter did not crank or anything. So, I have my old starter and I gonna put that in.

Is there anyway possible that this could be an ignition key cylinder right in the steering column that is disconnected or something??
 
Check the fusable link down near the starter. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]

I think its either an ecm problem or a bad starter because when I tried starting it up again, the gauges didn't come on and the ck eng. light did not come on again. It normally comes on with the key put to into "on."

[/ QUOTE ] It's more likely a problem with the main ignition circuit, I'd get out a haynes or chiltons and start checking out that wiring, if it was the ECM then the lights in the dash would come on when you turn the key, also you can check the ignition switch, (different from the cylinder) again check your haynes manual. I'm still betting on something simple.
 
All ignition wires are hooked up properly, however still i have no luck. I noticed when I turn the key in the on position with the door open, the annoying buzzer does not go on, but when i push the key into the ignition key cylinder, the buzzer will come on?? If i purchase a new ignition key cylinder, do the keys come with it or will it have to be ordered and time is involved?
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Also, when i tried starting the truck I have heard it make a clicking like the motor is trying to crank over but it's just one click and then everything goes dead again. The interior lights work, radio works, headlights tail lights all work in the on position.
Haynes starter motor - in vehicle check " if, when the switch is actuated, the starter motor doesn't operate at all but the solenoid clicks, then the problem is in the battery, main solenoid, contacts or the starter motor itself."
I'm gonna try putting in a new starter and see the results.
Hope it works, ill keep you all updated.
 
you can take your starter to most parts houses and get it tested...
 
Starter is fine, ignition lock cylinder is fine, convinced it is ECM or fuse panel because radio does not work, a/c does not work, electric tailgate window does not work, ignition key does not work.

I think it has something to do with the fuse panel.

Where are the grounds for the ECM or fuse panel??
 
Pull the relevent fuses and put them back in again. My alarm often won't go on to valet. Fuse is tight and good but slide it in and out slightly and it's working again! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Ok, With a circuit tester, i found out Left side of my fuses on the fuse panel are working everything else doesn't work???
ECMB
T/L & something else i forgot works....but ignition, ecma, crank, radio, a/c, power, does not work??

The alternator has a plug with two wires running to it, orange and brown. I noticed only the orange wire (which basically connects to the battery) has juice in it but the brown one doesn't?
Should the brown one have juice in it when it's plugged in?

The box mounted on the firewall under the hood has all the wires run to them, i checked and noticed a brown wire runs from the alternator to the box.


Is that where the fuse box gets power?
Where does the power come from in the fuse panel?
 
Bad ignition switch or a blown fusable link on the Ig side.

The ignition switch is on the top of the steering colum near the brake peddle pivot. It connects to the Key lock via a linkage.

Not the ECM. The gage test and indicotor stuff for Charge and oil pressure are seperate from the ECM so the fact both are not working means it is electrical. This will be a $40 repair at worst.

Off one of the lugs on the starter is the power feeds for the fuse box. You will have three or four 8-10 gage wires on the same lug as the main battery cable. One wire will be the alternator one is the hot side of the fuse box and one goes to the ig switch. Thos wires are fuses between the black molded deals. There are two more hanging off the right terminal of the junction block on the fire wall but those are for A/C and accessories.

Now tell me you have actually checked this battery. I will come smack ya in the head with a rock if this turns out to be a bad battery. /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
 
No it is not a bad battery, I checked it several times, and even when I had the key turned to "on" the voltage read 12-14 volts. I just purchased this new optima battery on saturday. Ok I will need to check the power lines that are run to the fuse panel. /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif
 
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Ok i found the problem, the two studs that come out of the starter had the problem. I used a circuit tester and noticed that the wire running from the battery had juice in it. The other wire that was on the same stud did not????
Then i checked the other stud and noticed the wire was completely cut?
Im guessing the reason being was that the fusible link and the connector was too close together and it must have ripped open the wire. Anyway, I reconnected both of the wires and use the circuit tester and noticed they now had power running to them. SO I turned the key and she started right up. I was about to junk the truck because it was about 99 degrees out today and I was dead tired after work. But, The power of chevy kept me motivated.

I THANK YOU ALL FOR ALL THE ASSISTANCE.
When I get pics of my animal i'll post them.
 
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